A dream fulfilled.

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When I arrived in Moscow it was 5 in the morning. I had an awful headache throughout the night in the cramped hot room and was desperate to clean my teeth, have a shower and a glass of water. But first I had to make my way back to Yaroslavl.

I found my route on the metro from Kurskaya to Komsomolskaya and then found Yaroslavskii train station. Having asked ten miserable ladies in various kiosks for a ticket and being told to go somewhere else I finally found the right desk, only to be told the first three trains were all sold out. It surprises me how plain, middle aged women spend so much effort on their appearance - dyed hair, thick make-up, name badge carefully polished - only to be so rude to the people who talk to them.

By chance a man overheard me grumbling and told me to go outside and find a 'mashrutka' minibus, which leaves for Yaroslavl every morning and is quicker and cheaper. I did, and after 4 hours in a dark and smelly big car I was back from my holiday after fifteen days away.

My un-gloved hands were in agony after carrying my heavy bags an hour to Yartek through minus 11. For the last few blocks to the language centre I resorted to putting some of my dirty socks over my hands. My body creaked with the cold, and when I inhaled, freezing cold air shot up into my lungs.

When I struggled ghrough the door the lady who was looking after the place made me a cup of coffee with four teaspoons of sugar, and asked me friendly questions about my time away. After I got my breath back I went on a final shopping trip to finish buying presents for my family. I bumped into Chris J on ulitsa Kirova, who had an equally spectacular time celebrating New Year in St. Petersburg. He mentioned more fireworks, time spent with good friends, and a bar called 'Lyod', which is made entirely of ice including the glasses that drinks come in. We had a coffee out of a ceramic mug at Shvedskii Stol - his favourite café - and swapped stories. As I had nowhere to live (thank goodness!) I had a much needed shower and a shave at his flat.

In the evening I went to the cinema with Katya for a last night out before I left. We went back to Yartek to joing myself and Chris' pensive pizza eating, then I walked her home and we said goodbye. I would like to think it won't be for too long. Tver isn't too far away from her and we have a lot of fun together, but I won't tempt fate. Every minute with her has been fantastic.

I slept on the sofa at Yartek that evening, for the hundredth time but the first at night in my pajamas.

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Photos

Moscow lit up.
G.U.M.