Graciosa - enchanting island, 50 cent expresso.

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Graciosa is indeed an enchanting and graceful island, where the pace of life is slow.
It is only 10 x 7 km with a population of around 4000, but it is full of ex residents returning for a holiday. It is known for the well constructed dry walls, its beautiful biosphere and for having free Wifi and 2 ponds in the main square. No mosquitos no polution, and no vermin. The entertainment is provided by crazy birds called shearwaters which screach and fly after dark. The locals copied this irritating sound and created an irritating ringtone for cell phones.

Driving the twisting roads between the walls and houses dodging the cars parking in the middle of the street is disconcerting at first. Donkey carts, cows and mini tractors share those roads with huge backhoe transports. The paved roads would be a paradise for cycling and the countless unpaved roads and tracks would be a paradise for hikers.

In late August we saw the Guadelope Bull run - the beer truck is cool - it goes up and down the road to serve the spectators during the intermission. The odds are stacked against the poor bull, it slides (falls) and slobers on the smooth asphalt roads and turns into a sad spectacle.

Good and cheap food. Did I mention the 50 cent expresso! It takes them longer to figure out the bill than to prepare the meal.

At the other end of the spectrum is Lisbon with lots of people, tourists and things to see.

Castelo St. George Castle.

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