Northern Portugal

Travel blog 5

If this gets too boring please switch off - I will never know and whatever you do when we get back is not to invite us round if we mention showing you our holiday snaps!!

Forgot on last blog to mention that on the awful day across mountains we found a most fabulous site in the nature reserve and we slept by a waterfall at a place called Geres. We thought this would be relaxing, but turned out a big annoying. I had trouble with my ear since I left England and realised how bad it had got when I laid on one side and listened to water and on other side could hear nothing. So as well as sorting van out made visit to Farmacia for drops. Laid in bed thinking how to explain the little hearing problem and had visions of drawing ear etc but no need. Pharmicist had perfect English! Spent next night on side with andy putting drops in - he is a bit of saint although I think he got some perverse pleasure squirting water in my ears which I hate!

Wednesday 3rd October
Stopped at a supermarket and had a good shop and bought ourselves a lovely almond cake which we ate for lunch and immediately felt better, especially when we encountered a small town called Esposende which was delightful. A lovely promenade at the end of which were salt marshes that looked and smelt like Tollesbury. Managed to get a Portugese dictionary too which I was desperate for. Tourist office said we could camp on harbour car park but Andy keen to settle down and relax after busy few days. Site we chose to stay on was dire, absolutely dire. Looked like a ghetto and then we found it difficult to get out as surrounded by concrete walls which only just fitted between. Met cars coming our way who had to reverse back for ages! Eventually headed north (not keen on north but not many sites around) and found one south of Viano Castelo in a pine forest by the beach. Did not warm to it but we needed to chill out. Had a walk along beach before cooking some lovely pork. Meat here is wonderful and cheap; you have to buy it from butcher which is good. Roads are a mixture of good and blooming awful. All villages have had cobble stones laid down which are difficult to drive along, but guess it is a slowing down tactic.

Thursday, 4th
Decided to stay on site. Found a foot ferry across to Viano Castelo which we caught (after managing to get a wash done - despite warnings of rain). Spent a lovely today in the 13th Century town which is overlooked by the peak of Mount Santa Lucia. The buildings were fascinating; a mix of Renaissance arcades and buildings with Gothic arches.Whilst wandering around we saw several steps unsignposted down below ground; in the end curiousity took over and we ventured down to find there was a car park running underneath the whole of Viana- no wonder it was a pleasure to be in; we thought of Colchester doing something similar? never! All very picturesque and good for Andy with his photography which he is getting into. By 4 we had not eaten so stopped for a drink and found the menu of the day being offered at 5 euros so we enjoyed a starter of pate and home made nut bread followed by shark steaks (Andy had loin of pork) plus 2 big glasses of wine all for 13 euros. Caught the foot ferry back and on it were an English couple holidaying in Portugal who asked if they could come and look at our van as they were thinking of buying one. Bit bizarre - good job I had cleaned that morning. Did not need to eat in evening so relaxing time reading and watching an old Only fools and horses DVD. Actually I have not had time yet to do any painting or sewing as I planned. Seem to spend our time driving, planning where to drive and sight seeing, cooking and eating. Feeling slightly guilty about this for some reason as it feels like a holiday and it is not quite what we planned although we are doing what we planned. Not sure how you get out of holiday mode; keep saying "we are not tourists", but really we are.

Friday, 5th
Guess what, decided to stay yet another day on a site we are not that keen on. Had a tidy up and went beachcombing as weather quite nice (and managed to change sheets, so big day). Watched a dozen terns picking about the seaweed on beach at close range which was lovely. Other than that lazed about and read and cooked leg of lamb for dinner - eating very well in Portugal. I have to add here again that the Portugese are lovely people - the most helpful we have ever encountered. Wherever we are or whatever we do there is always someone wanting to assist or explain, and they nearly all speak a bit of English which puts us to shame. I am feeling really bad that we have not got the linguistic skills of other Europeans. I know from School it is a problem in England - we cannot get staff to teach foreign languages, so what chance have our children got? How come othe countries teach other languages - or is it to do with poor behaviour of our children - really hope not.

Saturday 6th
Had decided if weather OK we would try and get to Porto (2nd biggest city) on train so set off fairly early for foot ferry to Viano. Found train station only to be told line down and bus replacing train to Darque. Seem to have heard that one before somewhere! Got to Darque and relaxed on the hour and half journey. When train stopped a kind 18 year old told us that it was end of line and that we needed another train to Porto Central and to go to line 2. Eventually pulled up in Porto and what an entrance. The train station was decorated with the most beautiful tiles - mostly in the traditional blue and white but some multi coloured. It was a wonderful first sight and when we stepped into the sun we were looking at the most amazing city - one big square led into another; it was really overwhelming. As we were not tourists decided to do the 'not touristy' thing and got on the open topped bus. Actually it was great as we would never have seen a bit of Porto on foot in the time we had (limited as needed to catch last foot ferry at 6!). However bus trip took 2 hours so we were getting a bit panicky. What we saw was amazing - the beach, the old harbour and then we crossed a bridge built by the same person who designed Eiffel tower and were in the Port district where we saw 100's of warehouses of port, all with golden terracotta roofs which gave off a golden hue around the area. After climbing the most steep hill on the this old London bus we came across the best; TAYLORS PORT, OF COURSE! Then the bus climbed up the pavement and we were treated to an aerial view of Porto which was fantastic. Made the Colchester bus tour a bit tame - Zoo on left, gravel works on right! We had a bit of a mad dash back to get all the right connections and eventually got back to foot ferry with ten minutes to spare, phew! Cooked fish for tea - altho not sure what the fish was?

Sunday, 7th
After busy day decided to stay one more day! Got bikes off back and cycled along the closed bridge into Viana to take the funicular which only runs at weekends up to Monte Saint Luzia. There has always been a bit of a haze but today it was quite clear and we could see for miles from the viewpoint and then paid to go up the elevation to the top of the church, the highest point. On way back to pick up bikes came across a brand new shopping complex. So had a wander around. Andy is the most messy person I know and is always spilling food so I felt he needed a new top. He flatly refused to come in shop but I worked on him for few minutes and within another few he was out carrying bag with two new shirts!! I found a hairdresser and as hair was looking like a pineapple top (Andy said at least we did not have to dust roof of van as my hair doing a good job of it), She seemed to say to me that I had lots of hair and stupidly I said "si".Next thing hair was not the problem as not much left. Certainly got my euro's worth! Best thing about whole of trip to this centre was the toilets - now I could write a few paragraphs about them but will refrain, surfice to say I had never seen anything like them. Designed like a seaside scene and the row of wash basins was sheer glass underneath were stones and sand and sea creatures and the cubicles were like going into beach huts - and absolutely spotless. Came out raving about these being one of the highlights of the trip! Sent Andy in (to gents of course) but he was not so excited as me, except he did say that he had never peed up a glass wall - so I guess gents were interesting to, its just he was not going to play (still sulking over the shirts!)

Came back and had a lovely walk along beach catching last of days sun and watching surfers doing their stuff! Sunday night phoning home time, so busy getting dinner and making calls - how we fill our days! Lovely!

There are few things that are strange to come to terms with. Firstly it is much warmer now so have job believing it is October; also on our walks the leaves are dropping with a vengance and we stamp across acorns, walnuts, chestnuts which seems bizarre in the heat. Portugal is on the same timescale as us, so after taking off hour for UK time now hard to remember, time the same. The other thing is that museums and places of interest always close Monday and everything closes up at lunchtime and re-opens until late afternoon in the evening. We keep forgetting these basic things.

When Portugese stop for lunch they visit little bars where the small cups of strong coffee are lined up with newspapers and the customers dash in order some food and whilst waiting read and drink the coffee and then disappear soon as they have snacked - all this done standing up. We have to remember to ask for milk with coffee as it always comes black and strong. It is not possible to buy fresh milk so we have to buy long life. The beer we are drinking is Super Bock which is sometimes embarrassing to ask for especially as Andy as usual is not getting to grips with lingo. Obrigado is thank you but Andy always manages an "Ob la de" which makes me think he is going to start on the old Marmalade hit.

I was interested to read that in Spain the population is 44m and the number of tourists in a year 57m.Hard to believe visitors outnumber the people who live there. Not sure how the figures work in Portugal but we understand that families are of great importance and usually land is passed down through the generations. This has led to pockets of very small pieces of land which are unsustainable as an income for each family member and therefore the Portugese are leaving to find work.

Whilst digressing, I thought I would tell you about Andy's 'mosquito dance'. This is now a nightly ritual (along with ear-drops, which are not working!); I get into bed and he then gets out his best buy of the tour - a one euro fly swat. He then jumps around the van singing " so long sucker!" whilst swatting away. I might add that this is not highly successful as I counted ten bites on me today - wish my sister was here - they used to bite her before starting on me! Only joking Karen!

Monday, 8th
Beautiful bright morning. I will miss waking up in the pine forest watching the sun shine through the tall trunks which extended as far as we could see. Bit fearful of pine cones dropping on van, as could have caused damage. Stopped at good old Lidl for some staple items of food and drink, filled up with diesel and managed to fill the gas cylinder at the service station. At first thought we would not be able to fill as our adaptor did not work but after the portugese asst saw our predicament came and assisted. Ironically had to use a fitting only supposed to be used in Italy. Set Dora South East for Guimaraes, altho concerned that she cut out again; have now warned Andy to be nice to her; though felt like having a go at her myself when she took us to the Peaje auto toll after we expressly said we did not want to pay for route. Arrived at lunchtime and parked in main street where we sat and ate our rolls whilst cars and buses whizzed past us.Guimaraes is the birthplace of the nation as the King in 1139 chose it to be the capital. Headed thro medieval streets which were fascinating, towards the castle. The castle here actually appears on the Portguese coat of arms. As it was Monday the castle was closed and there were no camp sites around or places to kip so we got back in van and headed slightly further south to Amarente. Had randomly chosen the place as there was purported to be a camp site. Found the site and my mad husband takes the van up a vertical climb to the highest pitch of the site. I was left to sort out paperwork and could not believe it when I eventually found him. Was exhausted by time I climbed up to the van and then realised I wanted the loo but was too exhausted to make journey down until cup of tea settled the nerves. Did our usual and wandered down (miles down) to the pretty riverside town with rows and rows of 17 Century mansions with brightly painted wooden balconies lining narrow streets with terraces overhanging the river. At 8 came home and started dinner, which we ate quite late.

Tuesday, 9th
Hot in the night and again another hot day. As we had not managed to see all of Amarente decided to stay on and had an enjoyable day wandering around. The cathedral was amazing; even Andy came and sat inside. The alter was gilded in gold and was an impressive sight with sun shining through. Funny I never seem to feel God in these places; actually find them just too ornate. Nature has more to offer (my own view). Actually did find out that the Portugese churchgoing congregation is also dropping, as our own. Again I have to say here how wonderful Portugese are. Tonight walking back up 'la 'ill' saw the same driving instructor teaching youngsters to drive cars and he called out to us today and then waved as he went passed - ah, we knew that the poor student was going to have to do a 3 point turn whilst at a 45 degree angle outside our "Campismo" as the sites are called.

Andy found Arkrights store! It was a little old hardware shop with everything in wooden boxes plus random bits of food and he asked for 2 m of matting to put outside van - well then Granville was called for (as he spoke Eng) and another guy from back and it took 3 of them to measure this, tie it up with string and then wrap it in brown paper and special tape. By this time we were quite hysterical, especially when he opened the old fashioned til which sprung open.

Walked back with our gigantic parcel to find an honorary visit by very important African people. Whole square suddenly surrounded by police with guns and detectives whispering into their watches. All very james Bond. We tried to scurry passed the Fire Brigade who held choppers aloft with our parcel as worried they might think we were terrorists with disguised gun.

Bit of a hit with satellite today. Andy felt that he should be able to get the Beeb, which we had lost in France! Despite phone call to supplier no luck. So today he climbs up on the roof through the vent whilst I hang on to his legs and being parked at a terrible angle to get the dish in the right place. Kept thinking what would happen if he slipped - and with the van where it was, even a big insurance claim did not seem a temptation.
So here we are at 7 pm with the prospect of catching up on Eastenders!

Ate our dinner at a picnic table overlooking the town which was beautifully lit up and met the sky full of stars. Sat til late just enjoying being......

Sorry for rambling on and on and on .... Love to all

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