I’m in Poland… and I can’t eat perogies

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When I arrived at my hostel in Krakow, the lovely Anna working reception checked me in. Without even asking, she busted out a map showing me where the major museums and sights were, and set about telling me where I could get some good local food. She looks at me and says “have you hear about perogies?” My response… “Have you heard about celiac disease?”

She looked at me with sympathy, but then figured out some other things I could eat. It hurt, but what was worse was going with three guys from the hostel to a 24 hour perogy house, finding out they were out of cabbage rolls (the only gluten free thing on the menu), and having to watch them down what looked like some good baba-made perogies. The boys walked to another place that translates to grandma raspberries – for something called bigos. It is sort of like a meat/cabbage stew, so of course I liked it. I read later on that this type of stew has to sit for a few days to get some good flavor – of course I like the rank stuff.

My first real day in Krakow I decided to do the free walking tour of the old town. Krakow has a beautiful square filled with historical buildings that somehow made it through the war. Apparently the Nazis liked the town, and it managed to avoid being bombed and demolished like what happened to Warsaw.

So I sort of forgot that the old Pope was Polish, quickly reminded of that in Krakow because there are statues, exhibits, and pictures of him everywhere. Didn’t realize exactly how Catholic Poland is, must remember to watch my mouth and try not to offend anyone.

After another Polish helping of some more bigos, I set off for the free walking tour of the Jewish quarter with two Aussie boys that I met on the first tour. Not sure it was the best idea since we were all tired, but it was very informative and a good orientation. For those of you who have seen Schindler’s list, Spielberg filmed a lot of the movie in the Jewish quarter. Also got to see the Jewish ghetto that was built by the Nazis – the walls are reminiscent of the design found in a Jewish cemetery. Another famous filmmaker Roman Polanski managed to escape this ghetto when he was a child. In one of the squares an art installation with chairs is there as a reminder of all the Jews who had to abandon their furniture when they were either crammed into the ghetto, or forced to evacuate.

The next day I took the bus out to Auschwitz – the biggest Nazi concentration camp and the site of one of the worst human atrocities of all time. The site is a museum and I had an amazing guide that led us through the buildings. The most shocking was a room filled with hair which was collected from the bodies of those led to the gas chamber. The hair was used to make fabric, mattresses, etc. The collection of eye glasses, children’s clothes, shoes, and suitcases with people’s names on them was shocking. Our guide explained that most people had no idea what was happening, and that after long train journeys they thought they were actually going to be living and working somewhere new.

The Nazis originally took photos of all registered prisoners, and the walk along a corridor with photos showing names, occupation, date of arrival, and date of death was gut-wrenching. Some people managed to last a year in the camp, while the dates of some older women showed that they died within a month at Auschwitz.

I know this may not be a happy part of the blog, but I think it is something that everyone needs to see. After spending two hours at what is called Auschwitz 1 – we took a shuttle for the 5 minute ride to Auschwitz Birkenau – a site that was built with six gas chambers/crematoriums, and a camp for prisoners. Even though the Nazis tried to destroy some of the buildings, the horrible living conditions that prisoners were forced to endure is still there.

Our guide explained that often times prisoners were get off a train (two platforms were built at this site to accommodate it), and went straight to the gas chamber. Forcing them to strip, people thought they were going to have a shower. 2000 people could be gassed at one time – after 15 minutes the doors would be open and the work for many prisoners would begin. They had to shave the hair, pull out any teeth with gold fillings, and move the bodies to be burned.

A strange thing I learned was that one of the most desired jobs at the camp was to work in the buildings where they stored valuables from people coming off the trains. The prisoners called these buildings Canada (Kanada) 1 and Canada 2, because for them Kanada was a place where rich people were.

Two days turns into 6

So originally I thought I would stay just a couple of days in Krakow, but the weather was lovely, the town was beautiful, and there were some big festivals happening on the weekend. My hostel was full (and I was annoyed with the old man in my dorm snoring and farting all night), and didn’t feel like moving to another one so I put up a post on the couch surfing Krakow emergency couch group. Luckily, I was adopted by Nicholas, an English guy living in Krakow who had a three bedroom apartment about a 10 minute walk from the main square. I had what had to be the best sleep I’ve had since I have been in Europe. A big bed, fluffy duvet – I was in heaven. I am sold on the couch surfing. So far so good!

Friday I walked around the Jewish quarter again. Very cool little neighborhood, although not many Jewish people live there anymore. I bought a few things from the flea market, and then went to the outdoor market for lunch. While most people were ordering what is basically a polish pizza – a baguette cut lengthwise, topped with pizza options, and put in a toaster oven – I decided to go the old-polish man lunch route. I had myself a pork knuckle, boiled in some vinegar broth; it basically fell off the bone. Yum Yum. (Eng… where are you now… you would have loved it).

Afterwards I went to the new permanent exhibit on the Nazis occupation of Krakow, situation in the Oscar Schindler factory. I learned that the list that Schindler has his man scribe in the movie is not really accurate. He did save a lot of Jews, but Spielberg took some liberties with the story-telling.

Friday night was Krakow’s Night at the Museum, so I checked out a few museums before heading to a couch surfing party on a boat along the river. Met some Canadian boys from Ottawa and was convinced to go to a bar that is in a massive 5-floor building. Music was interesting… went from Shakira to Backstreet boy ballads. Standing beside me was the Polish version of Balki Bartokomous from Perfect Strangers - he knew all the words to “I want it that way.”

My last day in Krakow I ran into an anti-gay movement (mostly skin-head young guys). Polish police had to move them so that a gay parade could come through. I was shocked to see such a huge anti-gay movement, but then I was reminded that I am in Catholic country.

[In search of Polish Gnomes

I was lovely Poland so much that I thought I should see some more. I took an express bus 3 hours up to Wroclaw (not pronounced anything like a English speaker would say it), to explore a cute old town with bronze garden gnomes hidden all over the place. Met up to walk around with a lovely girl called Asia (Asha) from couch surfing who helped me find some gnomes.

I was totally creeped by a British guy in my hostel – he was hitting on me in the most disgusting way, oblivious that I was not interested, and finally when he asked if I wanted to touch his guns (biceps) and his 6-pack I was out of there. He was like “can I touch yours.” So gross.

I decided that I wasn’t feeling Wroclaw, and there was no one besides the creepy man in the hostel, so I decided to stop in Torun – the birthplace of Copernicus. So all the hostels were full and it took me an hour and half with my uber heavy bag to find a new hostel that is sort of open, but with no sign. Only other person was an Aussie who is a tick-box traveler, so I walked around town with him. Cute town – but not that exciting on your own. Plus I was bitter that I had to walk around with my bag because some school groups had booked all the hostels.

I had another giant pork piece for breakfast (what… it’s like eating bacon), and set off for the train station. My attempt to stop at one of the largest castles in Europe was doomed from the beginning. 30 minutes in, the train dies. I wait for 30 minutes and a new train shows up, some random guy comes to talk to me. Apparently word spread on the train there was a Canadian girl. Apparently there was a school group going to the same castle so I was to stay with them. When I arrive – no bag storage at the train station, so I walk to the castle with my pack, store it there, and do a so-so audio guide tour of what I think is a so-so castle.

Between the long trains, lack of hostel space, and meeting almost no other travelers, I was sort of over Poland. I was tired of being on my own, frustrated that I have no guide book and don't speak Polish.

Hello Gdansk... I heart you

When I finally got to Gdansk that night, I was couch surfing with Jeff – a Canadian born-chess prodigy – who got into real estate in Eastern Europe, and now competes on the poker circuit. I managed to snag his couch before he leaves for Vegas for 6 weeks.
Went for massive amounts of vodka drinks with him and his hot polish girlfriend, and my love for Poland came back.

Gdansk is a beautiful city on the Baltic, beautiful old buildings, canals, and cafes. I found two old hat shops and fell in love with the Polish women who placed hat upon hat on my head. Of course I walked away with one from each store- and a desire to learn to make some of the beautiful hats the one lady could make.

The next day I took the commuter train to Sopot – the seaside beach resort town that is more touristy, but nice. I had to pay 2 dollars to walk on the pier – not impressed, but the sunshine was nice, even if it was too windy to lie on the beach. (Please note … there were many people braving the wind in bikinis and Speedos).

My last night in Poland I spent an hour at the market buying meat, veggies and fruit for dinner. Jeff and Olga were more than happy to let me cook (Jeff has lived there for a year and I was the first to turn on the oven). I made pork tenderloin with a plum/black current reduction, roasted dill potatoes and carrots, and grilled asparagus. For dessert was gluten-free rice pudding with fresh strawberries.

After another late night of more vodka consumption, I am up early to catch the train to Berlin. In the end I really liked Poland. There are old traditions here that I loved. The little old ladies sell handfuls of flowers in the streets, a shoemaker on every other street, and of course, people selling vintage hats. The cities are beautiful, the people are friendly; plus, the traditional food had me smiling, even if I can’t have perogies.

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