Poland - returning home

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Tip for visiting Poland with a surname like Szakiel... no need to spell it for anyone, you just need to learn how to pronounce it properly. After almost 30 years of always having to spell and pronounce my surname, I finally arrived in Poland where I felt like one of the crowd... until they started speaking Polish - its quite funny having such a local name and not being able to speak the language.

But enough about that, we loved our time in Poland so much so that Joel and I have made a deal that should we be able to retire to Poland he will change his name to Szakiel 😊

We started off in the far north east of Poland, staying in a town called Olsztyn. We were there to see the Wolf's Lair - Hitler's bunker system hidden deep in the forests. The area is amazing, and gives quite an insight into the minds of those who based themselves there. While there were comfortable houses and eating/relaxation quarters, the main sights that are left are the huge bunkers with walls up to 10 metres thick of steel reinforced concrete!!

To stop the Russians from being able to use the bunkers after the war, the Germans took great care to destroy them as they were retreating out of eastern Poland back to Germany. So really what is left are the remains of the bunkers and piles of massive pieces of concrete.

Some of the bunkers did remain in tact and we were able to walk a little way inside them. Very small, very dark and very damp. But I guess if you were expecting to be bombed into oblivion they could give you some comfort that 10m of concrete may protect you...???

But they were a very cleverly designed system with grass, plants and trees planted on top of them to try to hide them from the sight of planes looking for them, and all of the roads and open spaces were also covered with camouflage cloth. The strange part about the history is that it is fairly certain that both the Allies and the Russians knew exactly where the bunkers were, their layout, design and how to get in. But they were never attacked. There are reports of spies posing as steel manufacturers offering to supply the construction of the bunkers, female spies coming to entertain troops and once found, also being let go.

But this was also the location where the von Stauffenburg assisintation brief case assasination attempt took place- or Tom Cruise in the movie Valkyrie. There is not much left of the actual bunker in which it took place but many photos. On the day that the assasination attempt took place, Hitler was supposed to meet with Mousollini a few hours afterwards. Of course, the assasination did not happen as planned, with only one of the two bombs detonating, and Hitler surviving. However, having survived the bomb, Hitler was once again convinved that he was the chosen one, and being protected by a higher power. He proudly showed Mussolini his shredded trousers and the destroyed meeting room. Apparently Mussolini was horrified with Hitler's behaviour and thought him to be completely deranged. A very strange twist in perspective from both sides I think.

In the evening after visting the bunkers, we were taken on a stunning lake cruise through the Masurian lakes in north Poland. Apparently they are on the short list for the next version of the natural wonders of the world, and we could see why! It was completely by chance that we were on the cruise though. Our tour guides also ran a book shop, and they were invited to a book launch which was being held on the boat, so they brought us along as well... it was a wonderful evening, apart from the 45 minutes of speeches, jokes, readings and general pontification in Polish. But the food and beers they served afterwards made up for it 😊

It was then on to Warsaw where we stayed with Dad's cousin Renata, and Piotr, and their beautiful 2 year old son Tomaz. While it was a short trip, only 2 nights, we had a great time, being able to see some Polish bunkers from the first world war. These were no where near as accessible as the Wolf's Lair, and while it did not seem possible, covered in many many more mosquitos!! (I forgot to mention all the bunkers were built in swamp areas!).

We spent the next day learning about the Warsaw uprising in WWII as well as going to the top of the "Palace of Science and Culture". Now dont let the name mislead you, the "Palace" is really a very tall tower built in traditional communist style (aka ugly, brutish and generally intimidating!) and was originally called Stalin's Palace. But the view from the top was very good. For lunch, we introduced Joel to a huge meal of pierogi, dumplings filled with various meats, vegetables or fruits. Very yummy but not so good for the waist line - but we're travelling so Im sure calories dont count... do they?

And then off to the old town of Warsaw, which was devastated during the war but has been carefully rebuilt to look as it should have done. Quite inspiring.

But our lovely stay in Warsaw had to come to an end and then it was off to Krakow, where we stayed with Adam and Kasia - from Ireland, for those of you with good memories 😊 This was the city that definitely captured our imaginations. Having been spared destruction in the war by the Russians, it was simply stunning. Our first evening we spent walking through the old town, listening to the trumpeter who plays every hour on the hour from the top of the church tower - and yes, every hour, through the day and night, rain, shine or snow... and has been for 400 years!

Being a little pekish we decided it was time for Polish sausage. And this is where local knoweldge comes in handy. We went for a walk out of the old town towards the market areas and came across a van parked on the side of the road. The set up consisted of a tarpaulin covering a table and a barrel with an open fire on which about 8 kransky were cooked on a stick. Straight from the stick to the plate and then to the mouth - yum!!

The next day we headed out to the salt caves - I would give you their actual name but cannot remember how to spell it!!! These were amazing! At over 400 years old, the caves are no longer actually working in full scale production but have amazing salt scultpures and rooms and lights carved throughout. We spent about 3 hours down there on a guided tour (strangely they dont allow tourists down on their own) and only saw 1% of the mine system.

That night we again went out to experience the Krakow nightlife, including their renowned late night post beer drinking meal of zapekanki... while it may sound simple, a large half baguette covered in melted cheese and your choice of topping like sausage (Joel) or the more healthy optin of spinach, corn and a tonne of garlic sauce, the taste was amazing - surely it didnt have anything to do with our evening of beers and wines...

Our second day was spent paying our respects at Auschwitz. Quite a traumatic and moving day, although again some what interupted by the transformation into a general museum with tourists with huge cameras all trying to get the perfect angle on their photos. We were quite horrified by their actions, and Joel decided to make a silent protest against a lot of them, purposefully moving in front of them and standing to stop them. A small gesture, and obviously lost on most others that were there, especially when they went out of their way to push him aside and tell him off for ruining their photos.

We visited both Auschwitz I and Birkenau, only a few kilometres apart but worlds different. Whiel Auschwitz I was an army barracks before the war and so well constructed brick buildings Birkenau consisted of about 300 purpose built, poorly built and insutlated buildings each holding about 700 people. The train tracks still come all the way into the camp. A devastating warning on the cruelty of humanity, that just doesnt seem to be being learnt over time.

To bring us out of our day, Adam picked us up and drove us back to Krakow via a beautiful Abbey perched on a hillside over looking the river where we heard the end of a Gregorian mass and watched the sunset. The world seemed somehow brighter after that.

As with all good things, our time in Krakow also came to an end, with an overnight train to Prague... the train was quite comfortable - I guess that comes from going first class in a private sleeper. Although we we a little un-nerved by the steward firstly taking our Eurail tickets off us and telling us he will return them in the morning and then giving us a tutorial on the three locks on the door and telling us to keep it locked at all times as "there are sometimes theives in the Czech Republic, good night".

A little on Prague perhaps...? Skip it. Too many tourists, go to Krakow instead 😊

Love to all... from Vienna... and we are off to Budapest tomorrow, to meet up with Gail (Steph's Mum).

Steph and Joel xxoo

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Photos

Sticks...
It is a tradition to leave a stick to help hold the wall up...

Comments

[John]

Jealousy
Hi Steph and Joel - readiong this blog is making me quite jealous . . . . . :(

[John]

Jealousy
Hi Steph and Joel - readiong this blog is making me quite jealous . . . . . :( Well with the possible exception of seeing Oswiecim - that'd be kinda depressing I think