A Kracking Thirtieth

My birthday falls conveniently during the last bank holiday weekend of the summer and as this year was the big 3-0 a fun weekend away was warranted (as if I ever need an excuse to plan a trip with friends).

Krakow was a random but, as it turns out, inspired choice. It was the perfect combination of beautiful, historic, charming and inexpensive. Nine friends and I spent three days exploring this enchanting city and left no pierogi (or flavored vodka) untasted.

Worth a Visit

Wawel Hill - On the left bank of the Vistula River rises Wawel Hill which is said to have been settled by predecessors to the Poles as early as the 7th century. At the top are a Royal Castle and a Cathedral where royal coronations have taken place since 1320. All over Krakow are reminders that the Poles have for centuries felt a closer association with their European neighbors to the west than with the Soviet bloc to the east. The palace on Wawel Hill, for example, which was completed in 1540, was designed in the Italian Renaissance style complete with a large central courtyard and arcaded galleries. There was a time when Wawel was an important centre of humanism in Europe. There are nice views over the river from the hill which is a very short walk from the main market square.

Wieliczka Salt Mine - On Sunday we took a day trip to the salt mines which are located about 30 minutes outside of the city. The table salt producing mine had been in continuous operation from the 13th century until 2007. About 1.2 million visitors tour the mine every year. The mine is huge and very impressive but the most impressive thing isn't salt production it's the artistry of the miners who have, over centuries, carved everything from large sculptures and copies of famous paintings like Da Vinci's Last Supper to a chapel with salt crystal chandeliers into the various chambers of the mine.

St. Mary's Basilica - This beautiful gothic basilica in the main market square was completed in 1397. The church is famous for its wooden altarpiece (the largest Gothic altarpiece in the world) honoring Mary which is opened for viewing ever day. The church is also known for the fact that every hour on the hour a trumpet sounds from the top of the taller of St. Mary's two towers and stops in mid-song to commemorate the famous 13th century trumpeter who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before the Mongol attack on the city.

Kazimierz - the Jewish quarter - At night this is a buzzing corner of the city (only about a 15 minute walk from the main square) with lots of bars, restaurants and young people looking for a fun night out. During the day on Saturday there is a food market, historic synagogues and other sites to visit. We walked through the old synagogue and were surprised to be joined by large groups of school children from Israel who were visiting Krakow and nearby historically significant holocaust sites. One of the groups had an old woman with them who we were told was a Polish holocaust survivor. What a great way to bring history to life for those kids.

Polish Eats

Aside from the freshly made pierogis I enjoyed in the market square we also had dinner out at two very different restaurants. For the most part we found the food to be delicious and the bill at the end of the night very reasonable (despite the large quantities of wine, flavored vodkas, side dishes and deserts we sampled).

Ancora
Dominikańska 3
31-043 Kraków

Ancora has a modern take on Polish cooking - their menu was daring and the food delicious.

Wesele
Rynek Glowny 10
31-042 Kraków

Wesele is right on the main market square. It's supposed to be very traditionally Polish (which comes off as a bit kitschy) but the food was classic, simple and tasty.

I would highly recommend a visit to Krakow - there was plenty to do but we never felt pressured to do more than enjoy a few pierogis and soak up the atmosphere in the market square. The people we met were pleasant and friendly and everything was cheap by London standards. It definitely whetted my appetite to see more of Poland and points further east!

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