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Published: August 4th 2008
Amsterdam canals
The main commuter route through Amsterdam. Just watch that traffic go!I don't think that I realised it when we left Copenhagen, but I really didn't want to like Amsterdam. I don't know why, perhaps underneath this liberal exterior I'm a closet conservative, constantly disapproving of the left of centre attitude that undoubtably is asscoicated with this city. Unfortunately, I was to be thouroughly disappointed. Amsterdam is lovely. Even though we failed to partake in the seamier side of the city (honestly!), we really enjoyed ourselves.
Before I go any further, I shoud clarify that, yes, Amsterdam does have some seedier parts. And lots of stag and hen parties. Shock, horror, a capital city in Europe has drunks on the street. Yet somehow (perhaps because of these) it's still probably the friendliest place I've been. For example, while looking confused at a fairly simple sign instructing me not to swim because it was too deep and used by divers (snorkel injuries can be terrible, or so I've heard), a girl of no more than 8 came over and asked (in English, I've never been so embarrased by my lack of ability to master a foreign language) if she could help. Where else in the world do you get that? In my
More canals
Well, there are lots of them. We had to have more than one photo. experience, only Egypt, and only there because they want to sell you something. In Holland they really mean it.
Our journey to the Netherlands was fairly uneventful, in a very comfortable German sleeper train. It was quite a contrast from the 6 person couchette through Sweden a couple of days before, and fitted the stereotype perfectly - it was clean, efficient, and quiet, but we got shouted at by two (german) members of staff for opening a window, and sitting in the wrong place in the restaurant car. I'm sure they meant well, but it came as quite a shock after the quiet helpfulness of their more norhterly cousins, and certainly compared interestingly with the Dutch.
As you may have already realised, we enjoyed ourselves. We hired bikes for a couple of days, and explored the city and some of the surrounding coutryside. It was a revelation on so many fronts. First of all, cycling in a flat country is a real pleasure. I know it sounds obvious to you, but having lost (ie had stolen) my last bike in hilly Edinburgh, this was sheer joy. The hilliest bit was a small lump caused by each canal bridge,
Zaanse Schans
The windmill theme park. Almost convincing, but failing at the last hurdle! taking no more than 2 seconds each to negotiate. And there are no cars! It was like every Christmas and birthday at once. Where else can you find a capital city with hardly any cars, but a huge multi-storey bike park?
The area of the country called (very appropriately) Waterland, immediately north of Amsterdam, made for a couple of great half days out, and we cycled alongside scenic canals and right up to the coast. As you'd expect, there were plenty of windmills, although the experience was slightly odd. They've made a collection of their favorite mills, put them in a fake town, and attached motors to them so they go round without sails up. Even I can tell that windmills don't go round in dead calm. This was more than made up for by being able to have possibly the best refreshing swim I've ever had in Twiske water park. What can be better for breaking up a long (and fairly hot) bike ride than a dip in a fresh water lake?
Cycling along the canals was a reminder of just how precarious this landscape really is. With fields more than five metres below sea level, will
it stay this way for long? What will happen to Amsterdam's canals if sea level rises? We never found the answer, perhaps because the local's had all been to the adjacent 'coffee' shop. Still, at least it's fun while it lasts!
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