History, Temples and a Hat

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Days 1 & 2
Before leaving I anticipated a long day before arriving in Valletta. There were 3 flights to reach my destination with wait times in between. The first flight, to Toronto, left on time but arrived late. Before takeoff I realized I had forgotten my watch so wasn't sure of the exact time. I knew I didn't have much time until my next flight boarded so I practically ran all the way. Down flights of stairs, up flights of escalators, and walking multiple moving sidewalks. I whipped around people and suitcases like I had wings on my feet. I skidded to a stop when I saw a kiosk selling watches. I bought something inexpensive then took off again and got to the gate with time to spare and.... they boarded the flight an hour late. I became excited when I saw tall cliffs with the Mediterranean crashing against them below - a Maltese island. Walking outside the airport to catch the shuttle to the hotel was similar to walking into a wall of humidity and heat. I immediately stripped off my jacket and pushed it into my backpack. It was not seen again until the day I flew out of the city.

The shuttle dropped me close to the Castille Hotel where I checked in, dropped off my luggage then headed eagerly to the tourist information office which was close by. The fellow at the hotel reception kindly provided a city map with an explanation of which way to go. Coming from ultra-dry western Canada, I immediately began to sweat profusely as I walked along the street. Why did I not change first? However, I was intent on getting oriented and finding out what the information centre had to offer. I picked up a few brochures and checked with an employee whether or not the Grand Palace was open to the public. I heard there was restoration work in progress plus it is sometimes closed for government business. I also wanted to confirm that the Hal Safliena Hypogeum was still undergoing restoration work. The Grand Palace was open but the Hypogeum was not. Disappointing but other temples were available for viewing. On the way back to the hotel I came across a pleasant looking outdoor cafe so stopped for dinner. I had not eaten much during my 30 hour travel time. When I finished it was around 6 pm local time (8 hours ahead) and the evening had become very pleasant. I sauntered back to the hotel, unpacked, turned on the air conditioner then flopped into bed exhausted around 8 pm.

Day 3
I woke for about an hour during the night then slept well until 6 am. I had to turn off the air conditioner because it was now quite chilly in the room. Breakfast was at 7:30 in the upstairs restaurant. I sat on the crowded terrace. The day was sunny and pleasant with good views from the terrace and all the tables were filled with guests of the hotel. Breakfast choices allowed gluten free choices without leaving me hungry. Once I finished my coffee I headed off for a walk in Floriana. My chosen route began at the nearby city gate of Valletta. Floriana dates back to 1634 and was supposed to be a suburb of Valletta but developed into a town of its own. I wanted to walk along two main streets called The Mall and Sarria Street. Both begin on opposite sides of the Triton Fountain. As I walked along Sarria St, I came upon the monument to the WWII British air force, a 50 ft marble column with a bronze eagle at the top. In between Sarria Street and The Mall are the Maglio Gardens. The strip of land was originally an area for young knights to exercise. In 1656 it was the first playground created in Malta and possibly Europe. It now has trees, shrubs and ponds with benches along the way. I noticed a few older men scattered here and there. I don't know if they were locals or tourists or a combination. Passing St Publius church, I came to a water tower called the Wignacourt at the bottom of the street. The water tower was built in the 17th century as part of the aqueduct. Heading into the Argotti Botanical Garden, there were only workers, cats and one other fellow in the gardens. In my enthusiasm to start sightseeing, I started off fairly early this morning. After wandering around I headed back along The Mall. I noticed a cat feeding station in the garden which explained the proliferation of felines. The walk is only 1.5 km and I stayed in the shade of trees as much as possible but by the time I arrived back at the city gate, my head was soaking wet. I stopped at the hotel to discover my hair was a ball of frizz and sticking up all over. I tamed it the best I could but had to find a solution. I walked along the main Republic St and discovered the only remedy I could think of...I bought a wide brimmed straw hat and slapped it on my head. If I couldn't tame my hair, I would cover it! Next stop, the Upper Barrakka Gardens. It turned out that the public gardens are just around the corner from my hotel. They stand at the highest point of Valletta and have great views of the Grand Harbour. Knights once practiced their fencing skills here. Now there is an outdoor cafe where I stopped for a cold drink and to enjoy the sea breezes. The garden itself consists primarily of shrubs and trees but was very pleasant. The location became a place where I stopped each evening for a peaceful respite before retiring to my hotel. I lined up with many other tourists along the main balustrade to see the row of cannon below in the Saluting Gallery. Everyone was there to see a man dressed as a British soldier formally fire one cannon - the noon day salute - over the harbour. Lots of noise and smoke. Everyone gasped at the sound and applauded.

The Grand Master's Palace was nearby so I headed there. In preparation for the trip, I purchased a Malta Heritage Pass which covered the admission to quite a few venues including this one. The Palace was originally built between 1573 & 1578 but the current building dates from the mid-18th century. For more than 200 years it was the residence of the Grand Master, head of the Order of the Knights of St John. Napoleon took over in 1798 then it became the headquarters of British Govenors. Today it is the seat of Parliament. Unfortunately, due to the restoration work only 3 state rooms were open. The interiors are magnificent with marble, paintings and decoration. The Armoury Museum was quite interesting. There is a huge array of armour and weaponry covering two centuries. I couldn't get over the small size of the armour. The mannequins were probably around my height or slightly taller. (I am 5'4".) It is hard to visualize tough, hardened men who were so much smaller a few hundred years ago. My 21st century eyes perhaps biased by movies.

Lunchtime. The portions are very large and I have trouble eating more than half. Sitting in the outdoor restaurants, I people-watch. The vast number of tourists is surprising; I believe most are from cruise ships. I thought the last half of September would see smaller crowds. It is entertaining watching the passerbys, hearing all the different languages around me. Filled, I went to the nearby St. John's Co-Cathedral. It is very large with a rather austere exterior but the interior is unbelievable - gold everywhere! I was quite dazzled. It was consecrated in 1578. The marble floor is inlaid with colourful tombstones of 400 knights. Each tombstone has the coat of arms of the occupant along with symbols of death. Every wall is carved with flowers and garlands. The ceiling is covered with beautiful frescoes completed in the 17th century. The Oratory has a number of paintings but their prized possession is a painting of St John the Baptist by Caravaggio. The High Altar is 17th century and made of gold, silver and bronze plus encrusted with jewels. Visitors must be dressed properly and narrow heels on shoes are not allowed since they could damage the floors. An audio guide provided a lot of detailed facts and background. I have discovered that nothing is very far away in Valletta. It is very easy to walk to any destination in the city. My hotel, Hotel Castille, is a superb choice for its excellent location. I stopped at the Wembley's store to buy water and fruit. When I returned to my room I discovered the straw around the back of the crown and part of the brim was soaking wet! Around 5:30 I slapped the hat back on my head and went out for a glass of wine. Since lunch was large, the fruit would suffice as dinner when I returned. At the end of my evening I was passing the Opera House and heard music. A lot of people were peering though the fence so I stopped. There was a group of men and women rehearsing for a show. They were singing "The Sound of Silence" and were so good, the rendition brought tears to my eyes. The Opera House was badly damaged by bombs during WWII with a few columns still standing. They have redone it as an open air stage. I lingered there for quite awhile. I noticed a lot of people walked away humming or whistling the song as they left.

Day 4
This morning there was a mist hanging over the city leaving the outside terrace tables covered with a heavy dew. After breakfast a walk through the Upper Barrakka Gardens led to a lift down to the harbour level. I walked through a tunnel to find the harbour ferry to Vittoriosa, locally known as Birgu (Beer-goo), the original name. It is one of the Three Cities; 3 small fortified towns across the Grand Harbour from Valletta. Birgu was the Knights' first capital in Malta. There was only one other woman on the ferry and we were not asked for fare. The ferry passed a few docks with many boats, small and large, tied up. Once we docked, it took me a few minutes to get oriented so I walked up to a high point to look around. As I was walking many locals said good morning. There were not many tourists around yet but it was early. First I came upon the Freedom Monument and the Church of St. Lawrence. A church has been on this site for 900 years. The present church was built between 1681 and 1697. After substantial damage in WWII it was restored. It has a richly decorated interior, statues, paintings and a marble cross. The front of the church was used as a cemetery during the Great Siege and held a big celebration here at the end of the Siege. Outside I noticed there were a lot of dark clouds and high humidity but so far, not any rain. I kept walking to the Inquisitor's Palace, one of the few to survive. It was the seat of the Inquisition from 1571-1798. This palace was a residence, court and prison. Today it is the Museum of Ethnography but has some restored rooms & prison cells that can be visited. The cells were rebuilt in 1698 for greater security. There are also some 17th century murals and a grand staircase. In the Judgement Room the door is half-size forcing anyone who enters to bow. Inside the accused had to sit on a stool while the Inquisitor on a throne and officials sat at heavy wood desks. My self guided tour also included the kitchen, the Inquisitor's bedroom and the small plain bedroom of the Warden. Many of the doors into the prison cells are quite short as well. As a went through there were fans blowing so I would stop for a few seconds to cool off. In the museum was an outfit that first shocked me; a white robe with a white hood. It looked like something the KKK would wear but the description said it was a monk's robes. A lot of the marble steps are very worn which always makes me wonder whose footsteps I am following. I spent quite a bit of time wandering through the rooms seeing very few other people. I strolled back along the waterfront, heading to Ft. St. Angelo. There were quite a few yachts and sailboats parked here. I saw one called "Devocean" which I thought was rather clever spelling. As I walked closer to the huge door of the fort a fellow stopped me to say it was closed until October due to a conference. That explained why I couldn't see anyone around when viewing it from across the harbour. Stopping at one of the waterfront restaurants I had a very refreshing fruit smoothie. By now more tourists were starting to appear. I hadn't planned on going, but since I had extra time now, I went to the Malta at War Museum. They have a lot of good displays but it is for those with a great interest in WWII. Chagrined by my ignorance, I did learn just how heavily Malta was bombarded by bombs. Over 500 unexploded bombs were found after the war so imagine how many did explode. Malta is the only country to receive the George Cross from King George of Britain. I returned to Valletta on the ferry. This time there were quite a few people. My hat came in handy again. My whole body was slick with sweat. This is the first time I have felt so deeply effected by humidity but I am hoping it will pass. I took the lift back up to the gardens and decided to visit the Lascaris War Rooms since I had to walk past the entrance to leave the gardens. Down many stairs then through a long tunnel lit with bare bulbs to reach the entrance of the museum. This was the war room for the British tracking events during the war so again, more for people with a big interest in the war. However, the underground shelter system was interesting. I couldn't believe how extensive it was with multiple tunnels seemingly going to every direction. It would have been easy to get lost without the exit sign arrows. All carved out of rock. Some of the doorways leading into the "cells" were low and I bumped my head once. Another time I came around a corner and was face-to-face with a woman who I startled badly. When she recovered we shared a laugh then carried on. It was time for a late lunch. Two cruise ships had arrived and there were throngs of people so many places were full. In the end, I stopped at a larger location and decided to wait for a table to become free. Twice I headed to an empty table when people pushed past me to grab it first but I was finally successful. I decided to try the fenek - rabbit - and it was delicious. While I was eating it started to rain but I had a large restaurant umbrella over my head. The rain only lasted about 10 minutes or so. I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through the streets checking out the old buildings and shops. Later, in the early evening, I found a pub by the city walls called Ordnance Pub where I had some wine, wrote in my journal and enjoyed the pleasant evening. This pub became my favorite due to good prices, pleasant outdoor tables, music and a waitress who always recognized me, calling me Madam. I discovered the humidity always dissipated by late afternoon so the wine followed by the visit to the Gardens became a refreshing evening ritual.

Day 5
On Sundays a lot of venues are closed so I went to the bus terminal and caught a bus to visit the Dingli Cliffs. While waiting for the bus I had a nice conversation with some people from Minnesota. I am finding that most people come to Malta for 3-6 days only. The bus let me off about 2 km from the cliffs. I guess I should have checked other routes. There were some signs pointing the way and when necessary, I asked a couple of friendly locals. The guidebook said the road by the cliffs was small and the area wild & undeveloped. I guess things have changed since then. There was a nicely paved road, a sidewalk and a huge radar station. The humidity seems to have slackened or I am acclimatizing but I put the hat on anyway to guard against the blazing sun. The land doesn't really curve so it is difficult to actually see the cliffs. Although there are great views of the ocean. The cliffs are the highest point of Malta with sudden drop offs to the water. There aren't any fences and the rocky, uneven ground was a little difficult to walk on so care was needed. Along the way is the small Chapel of St Mary Magdalene built in 1646. There is also a good view of the island of Filfla which is a nature reserve. At one time the British used it for target practice! No one is allowed to land there or fish in the area. On the way back, I stopped at a restaurant for a cold drink then caught the bus back to Valletta where I walked to the opposite end of the city toward Ft. Elmo. At a leisurely pace it was only a 15-20 minutes although part of the way was a steep stepped sidewalk. There was a special Malta Anniversary exhibit taking place. The Heritage pass that I purchased before I left home proved to be a good buy. It has allowed me entry into most sites and exhibits. I found this exhibit only mildly interesting. At the other end of the fort was another Malta at War exhibit. This one I enjoyed a great deal. The multiple exhibits requires walking from building to building within the fort. Afterward I had to search a little for a lunch table since many places were closed but did find one where I had another good meal. I wandered around to get back to my hotel for my late afternoon rest then headed out again to the Ordnance Pub for wine. My only complaint about outside eating is the number of flies. I find I am constantly waving them away. Strange that I haven't seen any other kind of bugs. Pigeons are another small nuisance. They hang around most of the cafes; numbering enough that there are "don't feed the pigeons" signs, ignored by many.

Day 6
There were dark clouds again and some claps of thunder while breakfasting so I took my umbrella when I went out to catch the bus to Mdina. I am noticing that the bus schedule is somewhat flexible. Some seem to leave right on time while others can be up to 15 minutes late. When they do leave late the locals seem to scold the drivers. The buses are air-conditioned and there is a recording that announces the stops in Maltese but there is also a running neon sign that shows the stop names in Maltese and English. When the bus arrived at Rabat, the driver called for 2 young women and myself to get off for Mdina. We all thought it was the next stop and none of us were sure where we were. I noticed a sign for the Greek Gate and told them there was an entrance that way. They started to follow me then turned off toward Rabat. I kept going following the map I had in my book. This shortly lead me to the main gate and the tourist information office that was giving out tourist maps of the town. I walked back to St. Paul's Square where I wanted to start my walking tour and there were the 2 young women from the bus. They waved at me sheepishly and I told them where to find the info office to retrieve a map. Mdina is in the centre of Malta and was the medieval capital. The pretty citadel has an Arabic influence. It is surrounded by high walls and has narrow curved streets. Many streets are curved so that an enemy can shoot an arrow only a short distance. There are very few vehicles since only residents are allowed to drive within the walls and the population is not very high. I loved this city. It's small but beautiful and I felt like I had gone back in time. The Greek Gate is the oldest gate and is medieval. St. Paul's Cathedral is in the square of the same name. It was completed in 1683 and stands above a grotto where St. Paul supposedly took refuge after a shipwreck. The floor is covered with marble tombstones and the 900 year old original door is still used to enter the Sacristy. The Museum is full of silver & gold objects of every kind. The rooms contain beautiful furniture, clocks, paintings, robes and a large carriage. My plan was to next visit the Palazzo Falson but I discovered it is closed on Mondays. I was very disappointed but I chose to see the film called the Mdina Experience. They had a special ticket for the film plus for an exhibit about the Knights. I had to backtrack a little way to the Knight exhibit. First there was a film, well made, about the history of the knights then visitors were directed to different dioramas with moving characters. Unfortunately the dioramas were a repeat of the film. I felt the film was not necessary and took away from the dioramas. I am sure a lot of money and time was spent on both but I started to get bored plus I had to leave before seeing the last 3 dioramas or I would be late for the Mdina film so they need to get their timing down. I have to say that a couple of the characters seemed to be staring straight at me with icy eyes. I did enjoy the Mdina Experience film and it was quite informative but again, some of the same information was repeated. After a light lunch at the Fontanella Tea Garden I headed to Rabat, the neighbouring city. The word Rabat actually means suburb and the city is outside of Mdina's walls. First I went to the Wignacourt Museum which also includes the St. Paul catacombs and underground shelters. In the tunnels and the catacombs it was very hot and humid. There didn't seem much to see other than the underground chapel. The church itself did not appear to be open. I headed down the street to St Agatha's Catacombs. The museum upstairs was a surprise. Stuffed full of all kinds of artifacts including skulls, skeletons and a mummified crocodile from Egypt. A lot of time could be spent in this museum. A guide was available for the tour of the catacombs. He made the tour interesting describing very ancient paintings well as pointing out a couple of 5th century skeletons still in their stone beds. There are some low doors and tunnels. I walked back toward the bus stop to see Domus Romana. The villa itself consists of the ruins of a Roman house but the adjoining museum displays lots of excavated artifacts including mosaics. The mosaics date back to the 1st century. I arrived back in Valletta and went to the hotel for a rest then headed to the Ordnance Pub. I ordered a tuna steak and it was huge! I forced myself to eat about half then had to explain it was fine, I just couldn't eat that much.

Day 7
It was a little cool at breakfast so I grabbed a light cover-up then caught a bus to head to the Blue Grotto at Wied iz-Zurrieq. I wanted to be there early because the sun on the plants and minerals causes the water to shine with phosphorescent colours. Plus, it is a popular destination so I hoped to miss any crowds. There weren't too many tourists and I quickly was able to board a small boat, called a frejuatini, for a tour of the caves. I think my boat included all the people who were on the same bus from Valletta - about 8 of us. Unfortunately it is somewhat cloudy but I was able to see some of the colours when the sun broke through. There is a system of about 6 caves that the boat travels through. I really enjoyed it, the sea was refreshing and the ride lasted about 30 minutes or so it seemed. The sea was a little choppy but didn't bother anyone. On my way to the bus stop I browsed through some of the shops. My timing was good because 5 tour buses just arrived as I got to the stop. While waiting I chatted with a woman from Osaka, Japan. She was headed back to Valletta because she had booked a "Game of Thrones tour" - her primary reason for visiting Malta for a couple of days. I was bound for the Hagar Qim (HA-jar-eem) and Mnajdra (Mna-ee-dra) temples which are close together and not far from the Grotto. First was a short 3D film in the Visitor's Centre about the history of the temples. I chuckled to myself when during the film there was a storm, in the theatre the low lights flickered with the sound of thunder, a breeze blew through and there was a fine mist of water to represent the rain. I enjoyed it. The temples themselves were impressive. The walk between the two was at least 1 km so on the way back I caught the inexpensive shuttle along with another couple, using an aching knee as an excuse to do so. Both temples are covered by white canopies to protect them from the environment. Hagar Qim was built between 3600-3200 BC and Mnajdra between 3150-2500 BC. After spending some time viewing the temples I went back to the bus stop to join a few others waiting but after about 1/2 hour in the sun a bus for Rabat finally appeared. I took that one because I knew I could transfer to a Valletta bus there. Then I thought, why don't I have lunch in Mdina then go to the Palazzo Falson that was closed the day before. It turned out to be an excellent idea. I had a tasty lunch at Trattoria 1530 and the Palazzo was wonderful. It is the best preserved medieval building in Mdina. The main door has a 700 year old lock. The interior was beautiful and full of wonderful exhibits of furniture, paintings, armour, silver, among other items. In the basement is a slave cell and a collection of weapons. I was very impressed with the whole thing. Back in Valletta I had dinner then headed to the Ordnance Pub for some wine. My last stop is always the Upper Barrakka Gardens before heading to the hotel. I like looking at the harbour when the sun is going down and the lights are coming on. I enjoy the evening breezes. These evening visits are exceedingly pleasant. I find I feel exceedingly safe in Malta. It is a great feeling of freedom.

Day 8
Today is Malta's Independence Day so a number of places are closed for the holiday. I caught a bus for the north coast which took almost an hour. I then caught a ferry for Comino. The Blue Lagoon is quite beautiful. The water is so clear it looks like the boats are floating on air. The beach itself is very small. A lot of people were already there and sitting on the rocky ground. Quite a few boats were anchored and I saw one registered in Vancouver, BC. I started walking toward the Watch Tower. It was quite steep and the path is very rocky, lots of loose stones. I wore full shoes for hiking today and it would be very easy to turn an ankle. I kept climbing up, not always sure I was actually on a path, and sometimes came close to the cliffs. The island has quite a bit of scrub, tall, single flowers and only a handful of trees. I saw a few lizards and grasshoppers. The views were fantastic!. I could see Malta on one side and Gozo on the other. At one time the Knights used the island as a hunting ground when it still had hare and wild boar. It was also a good stop for pirates and brigands. Today, it was very hot and windy. By the time I reached the tower I was thoroughly windblown and sweating heavily. The guidebook said it was a 15 minute walk but I think I took at least twice that. The flag was raised on the tower which meant it was open to the public. The Knights used the tower to link Malta with Gozo. The interior was quite large and there were high, somewhat uneven stone stairs (17th century) to the rooftop. It was a little scary because the stairs ended at a trapdoor and nothing to hang onto to when stepping onto the roof. I had planned to walk around the entire 3.5 km island but decided against it. A tricky walk led back down to the Lagoon to catch the ferry. It took a detour to view the caves in the cliffs which were fascinating with their different shapes and sizes. I chatted with a woman who was originally from Winnipeg but now lived in Colorado. She was travelling with her two teenaged daughters. On the long bus ride back to Valletta I almost fell asleep. Once there I had lunch which was the first poor meal I had so I made a mental note not to return to that location. The Archeological Museum was close by so I stopped in. It was definitely interesting. Some of the artifacts on display were excavated from the temples I had visited yesterday. These include the figures of the "Sleeping Lady" and the "Venus of Malta". It is definitely for those interested in Malta's prehistoric temples. The building itself dates back to 1571. I returned to the hotel for my hour of relaxing and discovered my hair was once again sticking up all over. Between the sweat and the wind on the sea, it gave me a scary look! I could not believe I had been walking around like that. The hat would have to save me once again for my nightly visit to the Ordnance Pub for wine, writing in my diary and possibly conversing with other patrons.

Day 9
I caught a bus to go to the Tarxien Temples. The trip was shorter than expected so I was early and it wouldn't open for almost 1/2 hour. However, there was a nice little sitting area near a church and it's cemetery. Every day I think I will leave a little later but cannot seem to do so. I always look forward to what I am going to experience next. In this case, the day was pleasant so I enjoyed the chance to sit on a bench in the balmy weather and absorb the quiet. Once in the temple area, I took my time wandering through the complex. I was the only one there for almost the entire visit. The complex has 4 megalithic structures built between 2400 & 1500 BC. They were discovered in 1913 and excavated between 1915 & 1919. Three of the temples are interconnected and have carvings, chambers and altars. My bus back to Valletta arrived quickly leaving me with enough time before my next bus to stop for a cappuccino. I expected the bus ride to Ft. Rinella to be short based on the brochure but it meandered around eventually arriving close to the fort. The fort has excellent exhibits as well as stairways down into the dark underground where people can access the ditch around the fort, similar to a moat without water. Young men in period British uniforms completed 3 different demonstrations. The first was with flag communications, the 2nd with bayonets and weapons of the time. They made it entertaining. I should have come just before the demonstrations started so I could view the exhibits in between the demos. The 3rd was to be a historical re-enactment but I didn't stay because of the longish wait. By this time I was very hungry. There was food available but nothing gluten free. I later regretted this because the young men were entertaining but on the other hand, my poor planning left me faint for food. The fort is a late 19th century British coastal fort built to help protect the Navy and is now a living museum. It has the largest muzzle-loading cannon in the world which is on display. I was surprised at the low number of people there. At the 1st 2 demonstrations there were only about 1/2 dozen people in the audience. I would give a strong recommendation for a visit. I think this is the problem with the cruise ships; there is not enough time for further exploration outside of Valetta. I also have to keep in mind that I am visiting near the end of tourist season. Between the two demonstrations I sat and had a coffee talking to a couple from England. The fellows doing the demonstrations were very personable and teased that there would be a final exam. When I arrived back at the Valletta bus terminal I saw a Japanese woman in a full geisha outfit including the socks and sandals but excluding the makeup. She and a male companion got on one of the buses. I headed to a gluten-free restaurant for the much-needed lunch then visited the nearby St. Peter's Shipwreck Church. It was built between 1639 and 1740 on the site of an earlier church. St. Paul landed in 60 AD due a shipwreck off the island. He introduced Christianity to the islands and supposedly got rid of all poisonous snakes. The right wrist bone of St. Paul is a relic here and is placed in a molded golden forearm. There is also a piece of marble column topped with a silver severed head of St. Paul. Rather morbid. The stone is supposedly a piece of the "pillar" on which he was executed. It is one of the city's oldest churches. Photos were not allowed nor were there any brochures to pick up but it was worth the visit. Entrance is a donation. The church is large and sumptuous but a little dark. Huge paintings decorate the ceiling right up to the top of the domes. It was a nice day so I stopped and had another cappuccino. This is the first day I have done so because it has been too hot to want a hot drink. I went into a shop that advertised maps which I have always found fascinating. There was an interesting man who was originally from Eastern Europe. He had some small paintings but also replicated ancient maps by hand. They were all detailed and rather fascinating. I bought 2-17th century replicas. One is the Maltese Islands and the other of the world as known at that time. Unframed, they were not expensive. He packed them up for me in a hard plastic tube and seemed very thankful for my interest. On heavy Italian vellum, they should be great when displayed. In the early evening I went to the Ordnance Pub then to the Upper Barrakka Gardens as usual. Once again I was thinking there has not been one instance when I have felt uncomfortable or unsafe so I have been feeling extremely relaxed and unguarded. I thought other tourists might be an issue but that has not been the case. This night as I walking to the gardens, I came across a decorated carriage with 2 horses larger than the usual. The driver headed to the gardens and parked near the entrance. Once in the gardens I heard a brass band so looked over the terrace toward the Saluting Battery. The band was playing and a number of decorated tables had been set up around the Battery. All 8 cannons were fired then a couple came out with a few others and were conversing. I don't know if it was a wedding or some other kind of celebration and I did not recognize any of the people. They were drinking champagne and not only had a man filming the event but had a drone flying overhead. I passed the carriage when I first entered and then again when I left the gardens and each time one of the horses had peed prodigiously requiring some careful walking.

Day 10
Today I wanted to travel to Naxxar (Na-shar) but there was a little confusion on my part about which was the best bus to take. It was hard to tell from the map so I got on one, went a short distance, got off switching to another seemingly more direct route. At the stop before the one I needed, we sat for 20 minutes. But, I wasn't in a rush so it was fine. The guidebook described the town as quaint so I was expecting something smaller. Not the case, lots of traffic and buildings. I went to the parish church first. It is hard to avoid any church visits because the islands have 360 of them! Again, I was expecting something small but it was huge. No fee and no one around so I wandered throughout for awhile. The church was built between 1616 and 1630 then enlarged and embellished over the centuries. My primary reason for going there was to visit the Palazzo Parisio across the street. Absolutely splendid. The palace was originally built for a Grand Master in 1733. At the end of the 19th century is was bought by the family who owned Cisk beer. This is a brand of beer that I see at every cafe, restaurant and bar in Malta. I toured through the palace for quite some time then went into the beautiful gardens. The orangery is from the original 1733 house. There was a large tree with spiked bark! It looked very dangerous with potential pain. The bus back to Valletta was crowded and slow due to heavy traffic. I had a leisurely lunch then strolled down Merchant St's steep stairs to reach the Conference Centre so I could see the film "Malta Experience". A recommended film of the history of Malta. I would have enjoyed the film more if not for a man who kept taking photos of the screen with his phone which was very bright. He was sitting a couple of rows ahead and to the left. I ended up tossing a small mint at him and at the same time a fellow on the other side gave a low whistle so he got the hint and stopped. The film really demonstrated the barrage of bombing that took place during WWII. Some think the islands of Malta are at the end of Europe but they others claim they are in the middle of the Mediterranean/Europe, either of which makes them strategic. The Grand Harbour and the surrounding forts took most of the hits in all wars over the centuries but during WWII other buildings were damaged as well. At one point the city's population had to spend approximately 30 days in a row in shelters. I cannot imagine it. The ticket included a short lecture/tour of the 16th century hospital started by the Knights of St John's hospitaliers. It was huge and progressive for its time but only treated men. The guide was called Anne, a Maltese nun. She reminded us that the Templars were soldiers and the Malta Knights were healers. Although there were times when they did have to participate in battles. The Maltese Knights still exist today but primarily do works of charity. Later in my hotel I was about to check the internet for the location of the bed & breakfast in Gozo when I received an email from them telling me which buses to catch and how to reach their location. I was impressed.

Day 11
I checked out of the hotel which turned out to be less costly than anticipated. I caught the bus for the ride to the Gozo ferry. Gozo is the 2nd largest island and the name means joy in Castilian. In Maltese the name is Ghawdex, pronounced Owdesh. Happily there was a ferry waiting when I arrived and it only took about 25 minutes to get to my destination, 5 km from Malta. The bus for Victoria arrived right away for the 15 minute trip to the bus terminal in the city. It was very crowded without anywhere to place the luggage. A lot of people travel to the city just for the day. I was told to walk to the Savina church then take the street pas the church and they were not far around the curve of the cobbled street. There were not any street signs that I could see but I managed to find my way to the church. There was a street on each side of the building and neither looked cobbled. I asked a local worker and he sent me to the right. I walked down a hill and couldn't find anything. I walked back up the hill and he saw me and confirmed with a waiter at a cafe that it was the right way to go. Back down the hill then I wandered and wandered getting different directions from everyone I asked. Everyone tried to be helpful but I wasn't getting anywhere. It was hot, my suitcase was getting heavier and heavier, my backpack with my camera and iPad was getting heavier and heavier. I finally asked a teenager and he directed me back to where I started. I felt like dropping everything and having a cry but since that wouldn't help, I decided to partially take the kid's advice and go back to where I started. I started walking back up a steep street and came across an actual street sign! I recognized the name from my map and realized I was close to the B&B. I went around a corner and a man said if I was looking for the B&B it was just around the bend. It turned out I should have turned left and THEN the street became cobbled. I arrived covered in sweat, a little embarrassed, and exhausted. Jo didn't understand how her directions became muddled. I was thinking she should have just added the word left and I would have been fine but there was obvious concern in their voices so I said my mistake was asking for directions. It should have been about a 5 minutes walk from the church. Instead I spent well over an hour hunting for it. It turns out there are 3 streets with the same name which explained why people sent me different ways. In the end it was my own fault, I should have paid more attention to my map, Jo's email and I should have explored the other street first. I was told other guests have found their way quite easily. Jo led me up to my room while Kevin carried my suitcase. The room was beautiful. A double bed with lovely decor and a modern bathroom. The window looked over the back garden. The room had stone walls, a stone floor and a high ceiling. I had to change and once again rely on my hat to cover my hair. Somewhere along the way I lost the bright scarf that once adorned it but I wore it anyway. I had a lot to see this afternoon and it was already 2 pm but I guess I saw a part of the city that wasn't part of the plan. Jo and Kevin gave me some sightseeing tips. They seem to be very nice people. I headed out to visit the Citadella. For many years the city was plagued by pirates, raiders, Cosairs and Saracens. In 1551 almost the entire population was enslaved. The Citadella was built on a flat-topped hill in the middle of Gozo. Until 1673 the population would live outside the walls but were required to spend the night within. To reach the fort visitors have to go up It-Tegha gal-Belt, known as Castle Hill. It is a steep street made up of marble steps that can be slippery if wet. As in Valletta & other cities, the steps are shallow and long to allow men in armour an easier climb. It has narrow alleys, some ruins, a cathedral (of course), great views and some museums. I walked all around, checked out the views of the more rural island, went to two of the museums including the Old Prison and the Archeology museum as well as St George's Basilica, a big ornate church filled with gold and paintings. Next to the church is the small Cathedral Museum with the church's artifacts and treasures. I was the only one in the museum even though there were a lot of people in the fort. It was well worth visiting. I had not had lunch yet so headed to Independence Square were I happened to find a restaurant serving gluten-free pasta. I went back to the B&B for a short rest. Later I decided to go out and find a place to relax over wine. Jo recommended "Grapes" which turned out to be the same place I had eaten lunch. Since a lot of people are there for the day, the evenings are quieter and there are more locals around. This cafe's table are old Singer Sewing pedal tables with the machines removed. An creative use of the antiques. The night was calm with a light breeze.

Day 12
In the morning I caught a bus for Xaghra to visit the Ggantija Temples (pronounced Jiganteeya). Once again, it is hot and humid with dark clouds lurking overhead. It was a short walk from the bus stop to the site consisting of two temples dating back 3600-3200 BC. The name literally means giant because the huge stone slabs of the temples were commonly associated with a race of giants. The temples are considered one of the oldest free standing monuments in the world, built before Stonehenge and the Pyramids. Surprisingly these temples are not covered with a canopy. On one stone slab has graffiti from the 1800s. I saw similar graffiti in Egypt. It seems the 19th century visitors didn't have any qualms about carving their initials in ancient structures! I spent quite a bit of time wandering around the temples. I constantly found little things to notice and marvel over. From the temples I walked to the nearby Ta'Kola Windmill. It is one of the few surviving windmills on the islands and dates back to 1725 although it was reconstructed during the 1780s. The name is connected to the last miller who manufactured quite a few of the tools in the museum's collection. I am not sure when the last miller lived there but it was recent enough to display his photograph. The windmill became a museum in 1992. The ground floor was a workshop with the living quarters on the 1st floor.

I had been told the people of Gozo were warm and friendly. When I was standing waiting at the bus stop, a boy around 12 started chatting. He asked why I was visiting but did not seem to understand the concept of vacation. He said he had no wish to go abroad but in his lifetime, he had travelled to Lourdes in France. I immediately suspected it was a pilgrimage so didn't pursue the subject. While discussing a family member who lived in Canada, a man drove by on a motorcycle. Sitting in front of him was a largish dog taking in the sights with his ears blowing as if this was an everyday occurrence. Perhaps it was. Upon arrival in Victoria I decided the dark clouds warranted the retrieval of my umbrella before catching the next bus. I was almost at the B&B when it started to rain then pour. I arrived soaking wet. Jo & Kevin had towels ready for anyone coming in. After drying off, I had a discussion about my plans for the afternoon. It seems it has not rained in Gozo for 3 years so the locals were very happy about the weather and hoped it would continue. Three years! Why not and not 3 days from now! (big sigh) I decided to go to Dwejra anyway. The weather report was not good but I had high hopes. Regretfully I had already arranged to go back to Valletta tomorrow so I didn't have much time to play with. Surprisingly, the bus was packed with people, most of whom disembarked the bus with me at Dwejra. Still raining, I wore my backpack on my chest to protect my camera from the rain under the umbrella. There was only 1 covered restaurant and it was packed with people. The parking lot become the Inland Sea but I walked through it soaking my feet up to my ankles. I picked my way over the lumpy, bumpy rocks embedded with shells climbing over dips and small inclines as needed. They were slippery so it was slow going. I managed to get in a good position to see the Azure Window. I had initially wanted to climb up the hills and rocks for a good wander and look around but the slipperiness of the rocks and rugged terrain made that inadvisable. I looked around and did not see anyone climbing. Obviously, the boat tours were not running. I took some photos and made my way back to the crowded bus shelter where I stood watching people without jackets and/or umbrellas walking around soaked to the skin. At least it was not cold. However, it was a long wait with quite a few people huddled together. Back in Victoria I wanted food. I stopped at 2 or 3 places but they were all full. Most restaurants have the majority of their tables outside with only a few inside. When the weather is poor, the tables inside become occupied very quickly. Some only have outside tables so with the pouring rain, they actually close. I found a recommended restaurant and walked in to spy a small table near the back. As I walked quickly toward it, I heard 2 young women exclaim behind me when they set eyes upon the table. One started to push past me to get ahead so I blocked her with my backpack and quickly sat in the chair. Their expressions of disappointment were lost in my feelings of triumph. When I paid for my lunch the waiter said, "Thank you my lady". For some reason, this gave me a little frisson of pleasure. Since my visit to Dwerja had been cut short, I decided to wander the Citadella again. By this time the rain fizzled to drizzle. Late in the afternoon I went back to the B&B. Kevin said he would drive me to the ferry tomorrow. Not sure if it was a pity gift or not but decided I would take it. That night I walked to Grapes for a glass of wine. I asked for "mer-low" and the waiter said, "do you mean mer-lot?" I just smiled and said yes.I was glad I wore my light jacket, it was a little cool. There are other restaurants in this plaza allowing for people-watching. It is very different watching the locals interact than it is watching tourists. The locals have favorite seats, they seem to already know what they want to order, and the seniors are automatically given preferential treatment.

Day 13
Breakfast was inside because it was still drizzling rain. I guess there was a thunderstorm the night before but I slept through it. I have been sleeping deeply my entire vacation. I, and the other 2 guests, had the opportunity to visit with Jo & Kevin over breakfast. The other couple staying in the B&B are from LA, Calif. and don't seem too interested in striking up a conversation with me so I asked Kevin & Jo a number of questions. The back wall of their garden was built in Roman times. The house is very old and although renovated, they have tried to keep it as close to the original as possible. A small storage room upstairs was once a birthing room where the pregnant woman had to climb a rickety ladder to enter it. The previous owner had her 9 children this way. The bars on their ground floor windows are 150 years old and were originally installed to protect from pirates. Nowadays they are part of tradition. The city has close-knit communities where neighbors help neighbors. The B&B provides leftover food for animals and in return they will find onions or a pumpkin or something similar on their doorstep. A neighbor still keeps chickens in the home so the B&B gets fresh eggs. There are a few homes that even keep livestock. I mentioned I hadn't seen any animals in the countryside and Kevin said it is because it is too hot resulting in poor grass so they are kept in a building/barn. Many people have not left the city, never mind the island. There is still a lot of tradition built into the culture. Examples: It was expected that the eldest daughter would remain unmarried to help look after the family then their elderly parents making it a somewhat matriarchal society. Also, the eldest son would automatically go into the church. The language is a mixture of old Arabic, Sicilian Italian with the odd English word thrown in making it difficult to learn for an outsider. I found out that Victoria is called the city of bells because there are so many churches. The bells ring 5 times a day for mass.

Kevin drove me all the way to the ferry landing. I asked him about driving on the island because it seems very chaotic to me. However, he said being from Britain he was used to left-hand driving and it really was not difficult to negotiate. I remember one day seeing a car stop and the driver turning his side mirrors inward toward the car so the already small vehicle would fit within the confines of the narrow street he was travelling along. The bus to Valletta was began its journey almost empty but quickly became packed with people. Traffic was heavy so I ended up standing for 1 1/2 hours with my suitcase. I was relieved to finally reach the Valletta bus terminal. I walked to my new hotel, on the corner of St John's Square. The reception for the Luciano Guesthouse is actually in the back of the restaurant. The inside portion of the restaurant is fairly large while the outside cafe is in a prime spot in St John's Square next to the co-cathedral. In the previous 2 accommodations, I had some form of skeleton key for the door. The guesthouse actually had a modern key card. The single room was a decent size but did not have an outside window. Strangely, each room on this floor has a large window with wooden shutters that open inward with a view of the interior of the floor. Anyone walking by could reach in or climb into the room easily. I guess the window helps to air out the room but I closed them and locked them with the wooden bar since I didn't want people seeing inside. Once settled, I went out for lunch then walked down to the Case Rosa Piccola. It was raining lightly but I had my umbrella. There was a large number of people from a french cruise ship waiting for the tour, perhaps because of the weather. It is still a private home with 50 rooms, the majority are open to the public. The house is part of an original palazzo built around 1580. It was handed down from one of the 1st knights on the island. It is full of antiques, paintings as well as journals, letters, etc. providing information about the customs and traditions over 400 years. While going through the house, we came across a young woman archiving records. There is a framed invitation to Queen Elizabeth's coronation and a photograph signed by both Elizabeth and Phillip. From the garden there is access to underground shelters and the water cistern. The family is still wealthy and important, still highly involved with the Knight's charities and the church. The evening turned out to be fine but on my way home a sprinkling of rain began.

Day 14
I woke just after midnight to find the air conditioner had quit working. I turned on the desk fan but it didn't help much. No window, no ventilation, a square room, a sweat box. In the morning I got ready as quickly as I could because after my shower it became a humid sweat box. I reported the problem to the staff in the hope it is fixed by the time I returned. After breakfast I caught a bus for Marsaxlokk. It is a fishing village with a long harbour front with many cafes and restaurants specializing in the fresh fish caught daily. Malta's main fishing fleet is located here. The traditional fishing boats called luzzu, have a vertical prow with the "eye of Osiris" symbol on each side. The eyes are for protection and were first brought by the Phoenicians in ancient times. The Turkish fleet anchored here during the Great Siege. Along the harbour front there is an open market. I bought a pretty table runner and wandered among the rest of the stalls. I visited the Parish Church located in the main square, had a coffee, then boarded another bus to visit Ghar Dalam, pronounced Ar Dalam, the Cave of Darkness. It is a natural, huge cave that was one of the first places in Malta inhabited by man. There is archeological evidence that people were here by 5200 BC. I first visited the "Old Museum" that has animal bones, explanations of the significance of the cave and its contents. Prehistoric animals arrived when the islands were attached to Europe by a land bridge. Once the islands separated some of the animals became dwarfed including elephants and hippos. At one time the cave was used as a cattle pen then it was used as a WWII shelter as well as a fuel depot. There is a long pathway through part of the cave going past stalactites and excavation pits. The cave is quite dark even with the added lighting. The public is only allowed to go part of the way into it but it seemed like it was very long. I was there alone and the isolation in the dark environment was a little scary. Also, the path isn't very wide so would likely be claustrophobic if there were too many bodies inside. Since photos wouldn't work without a flash I bought some postcards on the way out of reception area. After returning to Valletta for lunch, I decided to take the "train" tour around the city. I had chuckled when I first saw it because it was so "touristy". A little train on wheels with about 6 large cars behind it. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed it. There was a recording that described sights and buildings as we went by. Back at St John's Square I stopped at the hotel to check the air conditioning and found it working. A relief! The evening was a little chilly. The ocean breezes now have a chill to them but it is the end of September. I wore a light jacket when I went out and it was enough. While having my wine, a drum band went by. I believe they were an advertisement for a show at the Opera House. They were very good and attracted a lot of attention.

Day 15
I spent the morning organizing my stuff for tomorrow's flight home simply because there was a terrific thunderstorm last night and it is still raining quite heavily when I had breakfast. My face-saving hat will be remaining on the desk table top when I leave. Maybe it will find a home but it is somewhat bedraggled. I later caught a bus to visit Mosta Dome - yes, another church. I regret not staying an additional day in Victoria, Gozo. I could have, I have seen all of the major sites here in Malta. I got there at 2 pm and discovered it didn't open until 3 pm. I went for lunch across the street then sat outside in the square. The clouds were ominous and the breeze cool. Quite a few people had the same idea and were also waiting. The name is actually the Mosta Parish Church of Santa Maria. It was built from 1833-1860 and has the 3rd largest unsupported dome in Europe. It has a circular design with a 6-column portico based on the Pantheon. In 1942 a bomb fell through the dome but failed to detonate. There were 300 people in the church at the time so it is considered a miracle. The dome is unusual in that it is flatter than most. It's like seeing an inverted shallow soup bowl. The interiors are quite impressive. It took a long time to get back to Valletta due to the heavy traffic. Just as I reached my hotel there was another big rainstorm with thunder. By the time I went to the pub it had quit raining but the tables and chairs were very wet. I sat inside for a change and had a good evening talking to people from England and Sweden. By the time I walked to the Upper Barrakka Gardens it was a beautiful evening. I watched the sun set on the Grand Harbour and the lights appear. It was a glorious end to a great vacation.

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Photos

Valletta
tourists filling Republic St at 5 pm

Valletta
the Maltese gallarija - enclosed painted wooden balconies with glass windows. A traditional feature of the country.

Floriana
monument for the WWII British air force

Grand Harbour
views from the Upper Barrakka Gardens

Grand Harbour
views from the Upper Barrakka Gardens

Grand Harbour
view from the Upper Barrakka Gardens

Grand Harbour
view from Upper Barrakka Gardens

Saluting Battery
below the Upper Barrakka Gardens, getting ready for the noon day gun

Saluting Battery
below the Upper Barrakka Gardens, getting the cannon ready

Saluting Battery
below the Upper Barrakka Gardens - shooting the noonday gun

Vittoriosa (Birgu)
the harbour

Vittoriosa (Birgu)
the harbour

Freedom Monument & St Lawrence Church
Birgu

St Lawrence Church
Birgu

St Lawrence Church interior
Birgu

St Lawrence Church interior
Birgu

walking in Birgu
steep streets have steps

Inquisitor's Palace, Birgu
The Inquisitor's robes

Inquisitor's Palace, Birgu
robes worn by monks

Inquisitor's Palace, Birgu
low doorway requires people to bow as entering the room

Inquisitor's Palace, Birgu
the accused sat on the stool