Aukstaitija National Park

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Day 10-11 (May 12-13)

Moving time again and now it was a trip up north 2 hours by local train to stay in the Aukštaitija national park. We were collected at the station and driven to our local host families home where we were staying (they move out into a little cottage next door while we were there).

The family speak little English but were so welcoming that we soon felt right at home. We had a room with window and balcony overlooking the lake. The national park was proclaimed with the villages still to remain inside it, as part of the park itself.

Soon after arriving we went canoeing in slightly inclement weather along two rivers and two more connecting lakes. There had not been much rain so navigating the rivers without getting grounded on some of the shallower parts was not easy but added to the fun. As we reached the second lake it was getting rather rough due to the change in the weather (there were actually wave swells) and with one of the canoes heading off in directions opposite to where we were aiming (although to be fair I don’t think this was due to the weather as much as the novice status of the paddlers) so we decided to cut it slightly short and chose to drive to the view point from the hillside.

Our lovely guide who called us all “my dears” as he spoke to us when proudly telling us a little of his country and in particular this part of it. He explained that the highest mountain in Lithuania was only 220metres high so this 170 metres hill we were on was also a quite impressive high point giving us a 360 degree view of the lake area.

Home cooked meals were a real treat after restaurant/café food for the last few months. After dinner I went out exploring as it stays light until well after 10pm. I followed the road passing the farm houses and cottages and their dogs. After one very large dog (not a big as Kujo from Suzdal but almost) that was straining at the leash in a similar manner I decided to find a walking stick. I recalled that our Mongolian local guide had explained how Mongolian soldiers used two spears to ward off attach fighting dogs in battles. One spear to hold off the dog and the other to slide down the spear until you hit the dog in the nose.

I felt well protected now and continued on, hearing my first cuckoos calling from the forest along the roadside (not just one but many all calling at once) and saw a stork in flight. As the sun was setting it turned one of the lakes I was passing into the dusty pink colour. Such a beautiful spot and so nice to be out of the cities for a while.

The following morning before breakfast I took my coffee and sat on the dock on the lake which became my favourite spot number 1, watching ducks land gracefully on the lake and just soaking up the peace. The weather sped past, blowing away the cloud that had been looking ominous and which was good as we had planned a 5 km walk to the local bee museum.

After a luxury home cooked breakfast we set out, walking through the forest at a leisurely pace. Bee keeping has a long history in the area and the museum explained the changing methods over the centuries. Of course the museum (which was just a little cottage really) was surrounded by wood carvings which seems to be a great pass-time in Lithuania.

After the return journey we were free, so three of us decided that we’d try fishing and mimed our idea to the owner who smiled secretly to himself and went off to get us a fishing rod and some lures. We rowed out into the middle of the lake casting for a while, and before long just trailing the rod behind the row boat.

We headed toward someone else rowing on the lake but they disappeared mysteriously. We decided on a change of venue and returned the row boat and tried fishing off a nearby bridge over the river - we saw fish but they were not much bigger than the lure so we were glad none took the bait (the lure now had been christened Brian). Brian was investigated by the fish but no takers. So we defaulted to a good game of "Pooh sticks" which is more fun than it sounds. Apparently this is a game from Winnie the Pooh, where by you through diffferent sized sticks from one side of a bridge, and race to the other side to see who's stick got there first.

I went for a short pre-dinner stroll in the opposite direction to the evening before, passing an old Soviet collective that had never really taken off and alongside another section of forest where I saw two deer. A little further on I think I solved the mystery of the disappearing fisherman when I came across an upturned boat at the edge of a field about where we last saw him.

Sitting for a while in favourite spot number two by the old mill has washed away the travel cobwebs, and returning to the house I collected our freshly washed clothes which was another bonus of this stay. A second great home cooked meal, which I found out later that they'd killed a veal for us, and all too soon we were getting ready to leave this special place.

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Photos

Ants are strong in Lithuania
Witness the use of large branches to build an antness

Comments

[tezzakezza]

feel the serenity...
It sounds like you had such a lovely time here, getting to enjoy some serenity, home cooked meals, surrounded by nature, and peace. A nice chance to draw a breath and enjoy some space it seems. I like the look of favorite place No2 with the old mill there. Row boat adventures sounded fun too!! x Keri