Parnu-> Riga

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Happy with our flying visit to Parnu, we boarded the evening bus to Riga and promptly fell asleep, only to be woken by the terror-inducing braking of the driver! Apparently latvia has one of the worst records for road accidents in europe...the journey provided much evidence to that effect. Arrived unscathed and eventually found the hostel, which is actually hidden behind a bookcase in a bar, probably the best entrance ever. Quite tired and hungry so we went to eat at a self-service pub, lovely and cheap but made the schoolboy error of sitting underneath the air conditioning. Monched down our slightly chilled salmon and sauerkraut, and picked our way back to the hostel, avoiding any groups which looked remotely like stag parties...fortunately, most of them were in no fit state to cause any sort of bother...

Woke up suitably refreshed and went downstairs to take advantage of the free morning coffee in the hostel bar - a much better idea than providing free breakfast that no one would eat! We had a few ideas for the day, but changed our plans when a flaxon-haired beardy chap from essex came in to promote his walking tour and orate on the subject of the peasants revolt. Since the success of the bike tour in tallinn, we decided to join the group and see the parts of Riga which havent been spoiled by its new found popularity as a budget destination.

The tour was brilliant, amongst other things, we saw and learnt about...

- The central market, housed in vast hangers which re-use the roofing from first world war zeppelin hangars
- The looming soviet behemoth that now houses the academy of sciences, built in the 'Stalins birthday cake' style and still sporting the hammer and sickle
- Yet another church, called the 'Jesus church' with an odd circular interior and a lack of crucifixes - apparently the jesus inside looks a bit like the Fonz (its closed on saturdays unfortunately)
- The remains of the Great synagogue and the memorial to those who helped the jews during nazi occupation, a very sobering and oft-ignored site
- A warren of interconnecting streets called (we think) the burger bazaar

Our guide, the aforementioned beardy (James) gave us a very interesting insight into the architecture of Riga - the city has a vast collection of impressive art nouveau buildings - and told us a lot about the less celebrated architects whose works are less championed than those of Mikhael Eisenstein (the bloke the guidebooks go on about). Very cool to hear someone so passionate about their interest. The tour is called 'eat riga' and comes highly recommended if anyone is ever in this part of the world.

After the tour we went back down to the central market to buy ingredients for dinner - putting money directly back into the hands of the Latvian people, yay us. Absolutely amazing place with unbelievable prices - we bought a giant bag of vegetables, a loaf of bread, a huge slab of steak, some delicious sausage and fruit for the total of about 4 lats (which is about 4 pounds). Went back to the hostel very pleased with ourselves and cooked delcious stuffed peppers. Without a doubt the best value meal we've ever cooked, and puts morrisons/asda/tesco and the like to shame.

In the evening we joined up with what seemed like most of the tour group from earlier and most of the hostel and went down to the moving baltic sea festival, a (totally free) film and music event which is travelling from Lubeck to Saint Petersburg. Tried the famous Riga Black Balsam, a thick, dark, and very powerful local spirit which anyone who comes to the city must try at least once before they go. Once is probably enough, its a bit like cough medicine, except not as delicious. It does contain about 25 different herbs though, so its probably quite health-giving, even if it is very much an acquired taste! Finished the evening with a few beers (far more refreshing) then pottered back to the hostel at a reasonably civilised time...and collapsed into bed.

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