Positano, April 2013

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I have taken the train and flown from Rome to Naples, but this is the first time I have driven. You drive down a long, wide coastal plain, and to your left is a near-continuous range of mountains, much taller than I would have expected, with most of the taller ones covered in snow the time of year. On the he way, I noticed what I thought was Montecassino, and sure enough soon came to a sign confirming that. From my vantage point, it appeared to have been completely re-built following the somewhat notorious World War II bombing.

As usual, arrival in Positano was not without a little frustration. The narrow, one-way road into the heart of town, upon which the hotel was located, always makes things a little difficult, made more so by the presence of a wedding half a block down the street. With cars behind me, I was forced to drive a little past the hotel to find temporary parking. After finding out how things worked, I had to drive about 3 Km back up to the top and then back down again in a big loop. The hotel then parks your car in their garage, since it would be almost impossible to do it yourself without practice. I counted 8 people helping guide the man doing the parking. As I was walking up the stairs to the hotel, I could smell the sweet aroma of rosemary with a hint of lemon and the strains of Mendelssohn's wedding march came echoing down the narrow street.

The hotel is wonderful. The infinity pool is not yet open for the season, but they have a great terrace looking out over the Bay of Salerno, and our room has a large outdoor terrace of its own The young man who parkEd the car also brought up the bags. After a several hour nap, it was time for dinner. I went with the hotel recommendation for Da Vincento, just down the road. Perfectly cooked shells with braised beef, orate (gilt-head bream) lemon and orange peel, and john dory served in layers with lemon leaves, followed by lemon cream and luscious tirami su with a glass of limoncello finished the evening.

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