Gubbio

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18 May 2008

We had no trouble finding the well signed overnight camper stop which had excellent facilities at today’s destination GUbbio. An Austrian couple told us told us that a local festival had been taking place but that it was over.

We made our way into this beautiful walled medieval town and came across groups of young people wearing white trousers and either yellow, red or blue tops with red scarves and sashes. Roger found out from the guide book that the Corsa dei Seri, held on the feast day of Ubaldo, Gubbio’s patron saint had taken place three days before. We assumed we saw was the end of festivities.

In between showers, we climbed up the side of the hill to visit the Piazza Grande and Palazzo Pretorio which dominates the square. Then up more steep steps and narrow streets to the duomo which has an unusual barrel vaulted roof.

The 900 year old festival takes the form of a race between three teams carrying four metre high hollow wood columns (ceri) around the steep streets of the town then climbing up to Basilica di Saint’Ubuldo at the summit of m high Monte Ingino. The tall columns are stored in the church. We decided to visit this church and took the 50 year old stand up funicular. Up there all was peace and tranquillity.

After going back down, we striated to head back to the town but came across three ceri and an increasingly excitable crowd. It was obvious something was about to happen and it turned out to be a re-run of the race for youths. We then had a wonderful hour joining the Italian crowd chasing the race around the town which was run at tremendous speed including three laps around the Piazza Grande while the Palazzo bell rang out. A kindly steward shepherded us out of harms way. Despite the huge crowds there was not a policeman to be seen. A truly memorable afternoon.

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