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Published: August 27th 2008
Verona
Looking back at the town from one of the bridges.THURSDAY, 21 AUGUST
I am waiting in the BA queue at Gatwick when a voice behind me says, "Hello, I'm Michael."
Before I have a chance to say something really witty like "So?", I turn around and see that the man behind me also has a Martin Randall badge on his bag. Thank God, I think to myself. For once I kept my mouth shut and won't have to spend the next four days apologising to one of my tour mates.
"Hello." I smile as I shake his hand.
"I'm your tour leader. It's nice to meet you." Wow! Dodged that bullet. I sigh with relief as I tell him that I will see him again in Italy and make my through security. Not an auspicious beginning by any means. I am already a bit wary of this trip. I have never been a great joiner, and four days of being stuck with people I don't know has made me nervous. I am on this tour for two reasons. One is that MRT could get tickets to the opera in Verona; the second is that I am taking a longer tour with this company in April and wanted
The Arena
NOT the theatre. to get a feel for what it would be like. As I board the plane, I remind myself that it is only four days. How bad can it be?
Well, it wasn't a great beginning. We landed in Verona only to have to wait for half an hour as some very officious customs officer took his time letting in the people without EU passports. We were finally allowed entry into the country, grabbed our bags and made our way to the coach. We drove into town to the Hotel San Luca, our home for the next four days. It may be the single ugliest building I have ever seen. The lobby isn't much better - soulless and dull with an air of age hanging over it. Wonderful!
We make our way as a group to dinner. We walk through a large piazza, past the arena and I am beginning to believe that maybe things aren't so dire after all. That is until we walk into the Trattoria Tre Marchetti. Now, those of you who are my loyal readers have heard me wax lyrical on many occasions about Italian food. One has to really search for a bad meal.
San Fermo
The exterior. We found one. The starter was beef carpaccio that tasted as though it had been sitting out of the fridge for hours. The main was veal, or at least that's what we were told. It was some kind of fatty, mystery meat that was smothered in a salty, tasteless gravy so you couldn't really tell. Pudding? That would be fruit from a can. At least the wine was drinkable. I chatted with some of the others on the tour and began to put faces with names.
My worst fears confirmed, I climbed into bed determined to make the best of a bad situation.
FRIDAY, 22 AUGUST
I wake up early to write and to go online. But guess what? The hotel's wifi service is down and won't be up for the duration of the trip. Fantastic. Now I'm really in a good mood. So, I decide to take a shower and start the day again in a better frame of mind. The shower is crap and the water is only lukewarm. My, but now I am in fine form. I make my way down to breakfast, a fake smile plastered on my face. At least one can't go
San Fermo
The interior. too far wrong with coffee and yogurt!
We meet as a group to do a morning walk. We leave the hotel and walk through the Portoni Bra, one of the ancient gates into the city. We emerge into Piazza Bra, the heart of Verona. I can feel my spirits lifting with each step. As the weekend continues, it becomes clear that this piazza is the heart of the city. At any time of the day or night, it is humming with people walking, sitting in the grass or drinking at one of the cafes. It is also the location of the arena, the raison d'etre of our trip. The third largest amphitheatre in the world, it originally sat 30,000 people - the entire population of Verona. I also learned something new. An amphitheatre is not the same thing as a theatre, so many Roman towns had both. The amphitheatre was for blood sports; the theatre for other types of performances.
It was at this point that I realised the first impressions had been all wrong and that this trip was going to be something to remember. I was surrounded by very clever people, all of whom had more
Giardino Giusi
The lower bit. than a smattering of interest in art and music. Michael has a PhD in Art History and has the skill to impart his knowledge without being condescending or simplistic. I spent four days listening to everything anyone had to say and asking questions all the time.
The best part was that I was the youngest person on the tour. Many of the others actually had children my age. I spoke to more than one of them about the changes in my life in the past months and listened to what they had to say about it. Without exception, they told me I was doing the right thing - really made me feel a lot better.
We had a full on morning, walking all over town and seeing the sights. After the arena, we walked over to San Fermo. This is a church made up of two, one piled on top of the other. Run by the Franciscans, the bottom bit was for the pilgrims, the bottom for saying mass. There are several frescos by Pisanello, but they are a bit dark. What was really interesting about this church was the outside; one can see where one building ended
Giardino Giusi
The view from the top. and the other began. I found it fascinating.
Next on the list was the Piazza Erbe. Verona sprung up as it was at the crossroads of two major Roman roads, one running east to west, the other north to south. (Interestingly, it is still at a crossroads of two major Italian highways.) This Piazza was where the roads actually met and so the market sprung up here. It is still a market, filled with stalls selling fruit and veg as well as tacky tourist tat. We took a bit of a break here, so I wandered around the stalls eating fresh fruit and looking at what was on offer. The best bit was the fountain in the middle. It is a mish-mash of leftover Roman pieces. Somehow, it works.
From here, we went over to the Piazza dei Signore which is right next door. While Erbe was the market, Signore (Lords) was for the political buildings. This one ended up being my favourite of them all. A very human scale, surrounded on all sides by beautiful buildings. In the centre is a statue of Dante, who worked in Verona for some time.
Very close by are the
Giardino Giusi
Two of God's creatures. Scaligeri tombs. They were under restoration while we were there, but one got a sense of them. Each son tried to outdo his father, so they were very grand and ornate. The patriarch of the group was a guy called Cangrande, or Big Dog. Isn't that fabulous! Nothing like an abundance of self-esteem.
We walked over to our final church of the day, Sant'Anastasia. The largest church in Verona, it is simply glorious. A huge, open space filled with frescos and light. I absolutely loved it.
By this time, we were all dropping from the heat. We split up for lunch. I walked back to the Piazza Erbe, had a huge bottle of water and some more fruit and just sat in the shade watching the world go by.
We spent the afternoon at the Giardino Giusti. Established in 1570, the gardens are more or less the same now as they were then. The idea was that one entered and then climbed up to the top, reaching enlightenment on the way. About a dozen of us made the trek and were rewarded with fantastic views of the city. At the top is a big stone lion that,
The Arena
Lit up for the evening performances. in his time, would emit flames. Must have been quite something to see.
A walk back to the hotel, a cold beer and another shower and I was ready for dinner. We all trooped onto a minibus and made our way up to the Castel San Pietro for dinner. Again, astounding views over the town and a much better meal than last night. My table was (I know - surprise, surprise) the rowdy one. We all ignored the old adage about not discussing religion or politics with strangers and spent the evening discussing both. Lots of laughter, fuelled by excellent Italian Soave.
Tonight's opera was "Carmen". Wow! Although the singing was not up to the par of Monday's production, the show was magnificent. A stage full of singers and dancers and tunes that everyone knows. I loved it and am so glad that the first opera I saw in Verona was my favourite.
SATURDAY, 23 AUGUST
I woke up this morning in a much better frame of mind than yesterday. I joined some of the crew for coffee and we got ready for an early start. We walked through town until we arrived at the Duomo. Although
Carmen
Taking her bow. it is not as impressive as the churches we saw yesterday, it is beautiful in its own right. The facade is stunning, with fabulous carvings, including one of Jonah being eaten by a sea monster. Or at least that's what one believes. It is actually a bit comical.
I was standing a bit away from the crowd, taking my photos and listening to Michael. All of a sudden, I turned around and there it was. It was a painting of the Assumption and it stood out in stark relief to the frescos and other art around it. The colours were brilliant; the faces were fabulous and the composition was unique. Turns out that I have good taste. It is a Titian, and it alone is worth the price of admission to the cathedral. I couldn't take my eyes off it.
The other really neat thing about the cathedral is that it is built on the site of Roman remains. Those in the know believe it may have been the baths and a temple to Minerva. We were actually able to go down and see some of the Roman work, including a tiled floor and some carvings. I've said
The Duomo
The exterior. it before and I'll say it again. Places like this are holy. I love the thought that various people have been worshipping various gods for centuries on the same floor on which I am walking. Makes me feel connected to the greater universe.
We then walked over to the Roman Theatre, stopping for a coffee along the way. It was way too hot for coffee, so I had a bottle of water with Peter, the other smoker on the trip. He and I would occasionally sneak away to indulge our dirty habit, laughing at how childish it was to "sneak" a smoke.
The theatre was wonderful, and like the arena, is still used to put on plays - mostly Shakespeare. It is built into the hill, rising up from the river. The views back into town were stunning. Connected to the theatre was the Museo Archeologico. Not the best of its kind I've ever seen, but there were some interesting finds.
It was at this point that I had to make a decision. The rest of the crew were going on to a villa, but I really wanted to see the rest of Verona. So, after much
The Duomo
This is near where the Roman ruins are. internal debate (because, as you know, I hate to miss anything), I decided that I would stay in town. I wandered into the Piazza Bra and found a cafe where I could sit, eat and watch the world go by. I ordered a pizza that was big enough for a family of four. I managed to get through about a third of it before crying uncle. I was tempted to sit there all afternoon, watching the people and drinking the fabulous wine, but my tourist self got the better of me and I left.
I, of course, did the bus tour. Definitely one of the weakest ones I've ever been on, but it did go out of town to the top of a hill. The views back made the ride worthwhile.
I wandered back into town and over to see THAT balcony. It was heaving, so I went into the Piazza Erbe for a beer and more people watching. An hour later, I went back to the balcony - still heaving. I decided to go to the Piazza dei Signori to see what was happening over there. I managed to get lost and was wandering around trying to
Verona
One of the old streets. get my bearings. All of a sudden, I hear a voice saying "You're the one I sat next to at the opera last night!"
I spun around and, sure enough, the neighbour to my left last night was right there. I had a chat with him and with his wife about the town and the heat (how English to discuss the weather). We raved about "Carmen" and they told me that it was the first opera they had ever seen. Not a bad start.
By this time, I was desperate for the loo. I wandered into a cafe and got a very snarky "We don't have one" from the barman. After promising him that I would sit down and buy a drink, magically one appeared. Grrr! I was tempted to walk out, but figured that was bad karma. So, I did as I promised and bought the least expensive thing on the menu. A single espresso that set me back one euro. Getting up, I decided that one euro was reasonable to use the facilities.
I eventually emerged into the Piazza. Loads of people taking photos of themselves with Dante. Figuring this was too good an opportunity
Roman Theatre
This is the modern version. to pass up, I sat down at the Cafe Dante (where else??) and treated myself to a Campari and soda. Again tempted to stay forever, I realised that time was running short and that if I wanted to see the balcony, I better get going.
I made my way back to the Casa di Giulietta. Now, keep in mind that Miss Capulet is a fictional character. It does say something about the magic of the play, however, that her house is the most visited spot in Verona. As one walks in, the walls are covered with graffiti for people hoping for better luck in love than she had. There is also a bronze statue of the girl where visitors rub her right breast for good luck. Of course I did!
There is a museum connected to the house that is ridiculous, but one needs to enter it to go stand on the balcony. I stood on the balcony and missed my dad enormously. There was no one to be the Romeo to my Juliet, so I had to mutter the "wherefore art thou" speech to myself. Not quite the same, but I imagined my dad standing below, shouting
The Man Himself
There are relatively few reminders of the man. up that "parting is such sweet sorrow", the words he used for years to wish me goodnight. I got very emotional (I'm getting emotional typing this!), so decided I better hide in the museum until I had calmed down.
I wandered back to the hotel, getting lost in the streets again. I eventually found my way out of the maze and stopped by the local cafe for a beer before going up to change for dinner.
Tonight, we were on our own for dinner. About half of us decided to eat together and went to a place that was Maria Callas' house back in the day. Wonderful fish meal, with loads of wine. We pushed the envelope in terms of timing to get to the arena, but we made it with about two minutes to spare.
Tonight was "Rigoletto". Oh my goodness, but it was wonderful. The woman singing Gilda had the voice of an angel and it melded perfectly with the man singing Rigoletto. Their duet at the end of the second act brought down the house. The crowd was cheering and stamping so much that they sang it again. Amazing. I commented to David and
Juliet's House
Some of the notes left for her. Sue, sitting next to me, that the tenor now had his work cut out for him. If he didn't nail "La Donna e Mobile," he was going to hear from the crowd. Nail it he did. Again, thunderous applause and enough of a racket that he sang it again. I will never hear that aria again that I won't think of him.
I was so pumped up at the end, that I could barely sit still. Liz, Michael and I had agreed to have a drink after the show, so I went to meet them. Several of the others had come along as well and we spent a couple of hours drinking red wine and talking about the opera. We learned later that the town had been a bit put off by the choice of "Rigoletto" this summer, but that it has been the surprise hit. Any future productions will have a long way to go to beat it!
SUNDAY, 24 AUGUST
Up to discover an absolutely perfect day. The sun is shining and there is not a cloud in the sky, which is a blue that only happens in Italy. I went outside early to find some
real coffee and just enjoyed the early morning quiet, watching the early birds walk to mass.
This morning, we went to Castelvecchio. Built by our friend Cangrande, it is now the art museum. What a joy to go through an art museum with an art historian - much better than any audio guide could be. In one morning, I learned how gold leaf was created (coins were smashed down and, if one looks closely, one can see the squares in the frames). I also learned how frescos are made and that art historians can tell how many days it took someone to do the work. I was fascinated and could have spent the entire day just listening to all the information being thrown my way.
However, after a fair few hours, the general consensus was that it was time for lunch. We all made our way over to a nearby cafe for way too much food and just enough wine.
We spent the afternoon looking at churches again. The first was San Zemo, my favourite of the lot. Built over two levels, the sense of peace was palpable. The second was San Bernadino, where we were able
Juliet's House
The bronze statue. See how the breasts are nice and shiny from all the rubbing. to go into the old library. I love libraries. Even though the books are long gone, one still gets a sense of the quiet and the reflection that would have gone on there.
Dinner tonight was standard fare, but I got to spend the evening talking to Susan. She has had a remarkable life, and she told me the story of the romance with her husband over the course of the evening. It actually brought tears to my eyes. I love listening to other people talk about themselves and what they have done. Susan is also a writer, so we talked a lot about why we write and what we write. She has since sent me some of her stuff - a great talent.
Tonight's opera was "Aida". This is the reason people come to Verona. The spectacle is meant to be second to none. Perhaps. I was disappointed. The singing was not the best I have ever heard and the spectacle, while quite something, was not what I had expected. I nearly left, but decided to stick it out with the crew.
When it was over, about eight of us all went to the Piazza Bra
Juliet's House
Looking down from the balcony onto the courtyard. for "a drink" and to discuss the evening. As so often happens on evenings like this, we kept ordering bottles of wine and the others at the table tried to convince me that the show had actually been pretty good. I remain unconvinced, but we shut down the bar and laughed a lot.
So, very quickly the time at Verona came to an end. I had a wonderful time, had my expectations more than exceeded, learned a lot and made some new friends. Not a bad result for three days!
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