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It's been 3 years since I first stayed in Venice for Carnivale and I vowed back then I would definitely return to enjoy once more the party and spectacle that Carnivale is. After two failed attempts, this year my friend Claire and I got ourselves into gear and headed to this mystical city for 3 wonderful Venetian nights.
Despite this being my third visit to Venice, arriving at the Grand Canal was every bit as magical as the first time I saw it. On this occasion, Claire and I found ourselves desperately seeking shelter from the heavy rain that was falling, all the while cursing ourselves for failing to come prepared for all weather conditions. Despite being sopping wet, with raindrops also marking our paper map to our hotel, I still couldn't help but smile at the sight of the gondolier men with their distinct ribboned hats and the tiny little bridges spanning the canals. I've said it before and I'll say it again-Venice is a surreal and magical place. It is intoxicating.
Several hours later, equipped with newly purchased umbrellas, we set out to explore our neighbourhood. Staying in the area between Piazzale Romana and the Academia Bridge
was a fantastic spot. Despite the 20minute walk to both San Marco and Rialto, it was the perfect spot to be a 'non-tourist' in what is inevitably an extremely touristy city. We found ourselves some fabulous restaurants in our little neighbourhood and ate ourselves silly for the 3 nights we stayed. Pizza, pasta and some form of dessert were on the menu at every meal, and of course wine too. One cannot dine in Italy without wine-its sacrilege!
Beyond wining and dining, Venice also offered the opportunity to engage in one of most women's favourite pastimes-shopping. I have to say, I think the shopping in Venice is amazing. On my last few visits, Venice has been part of a wider trip and as such, I've not really had the opportunity to go crazy with my purchases. But this time around, I had a hit list. Mask-check. Murano glass-check. Italian leather-check. Fortunately, Claire is as avid a shopper as I'd determined to be in those 3 days and between the 2 of us, our shopping would've done any girl proud.
The carnivale festival itself was in its opening days during our stay. This was great in one respect as
there were several opening events held in San Marco square which we could attend. The down side to this was that us, and all other tourists and locals alike, were all in attendance simultaneously. I felt fear of being crushed in a crowd for the first time ever in my life. You often hear about crush injuries when crowds surge at a music festival and the like, and several years ago there was a death at the Big Day Out when someone was crushed whilst watching a band. But I'd never really understood how easily this could happen until I found myself in the midst of several thousand people all trying to exit the square through one of only a handful of exits. Standing pressed against others in every direction, being pushed and pulled whilst desperately trying to keep sight of Claire to avoid being separated. It was unlike any other experience I've had before and not one I'm anxious to repeat.
The catalyst for the gathering was the main opening event of the festival-the launch of an Italian star in full costume from the Campanile of St Marco square. I have to say, it was a spectacle worth
seeing. The tower itself stands at a height of 97metres and it must be very scary to step off the Campanile and float oneself over thousands of people whilst dressed in a huge flowing period costume. As soon as the Italian star touched down though, the celebration was all but over and it was then that the crowd crush began. Not something I care to repeat anytime soon.
Other events were far less stressful. The first parade of costumed folk didn't occur until late on Sunday afternoon and sadly this left little time to actually check out the costumes as we were leaving the following day. That was the only unfortunate thing about visiting on the opening weekend-but still it was lovely to see everyone parade through the square. I only wished we'd seen more!
Whilst Claire and I weren't able to dress up for the carnivale, we certainly got into the spirit with the purchase of masks which we proudly wore as much as we could over the weekend (it's quite hard to navigate oneself and one's shopping bags through shops full of expensive Venetian glass statues and vases whilst wearing masks!) All in al, it was
a wonderful weekend escape to this magical city and I can only hope to be lucky enough to come again some day...but having been here 3 times, I already count myself a very lucky individual indeed.
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