Venice by water

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12 August 2009

Another fantastic day in the north Italian paradise of Lido, Venice with warm dry weather, good food and a good night’s sleep. We woke to a very busy day starting at 7.40am to catch our private ferry to cross the Venetian Lagoon to land near St Marks Cathedral and make our way through the narrow streets to watch the glass blowing in the Murano Glass shopping outlet. Tess had a ball and bought pendants for Kelly & Lozy (and herself too).

Then we had free time to shop and explore the city so first up we went looking for masks in one of the tiny back streets near the Rialto Bridge but the shop (which was suppose to open at 10 am) didn’t open. Luckily for us the shady character in the aviator glasses hanging around the side alley was her boss and waiting for her as well so he took us to his larger shop down some even smaller alleys and over more bridges. Al was a little bit concerned that we were being setup so instead of going off with the other men he stayed with myself and the other girl from the group. The shop was incredible and four times the size of the first one, with lots more masks and carnival costumes. We had a hard time choosing but I eventually found one and with the other girl we bought four so we haggled down the price. Allan headed off to buy a print of an ancient map of the city of Venice that is hand coloured and I headed to St Marks to line up for the Cathedral. This is the first time we had to use our phones to find each other because Allan was looking for the map for so long I had to go into St Mark’s on my own (he has a map now so should be able to find his way around). We eventually found each other but by then the sun was so hot and the line so long that we decided to hit the back streets and see what Venice was like away from the shopping and tourist areas.

Success after just a few minutes, the best coffee yet!! In Campo san Provolo at Bar Risorto - Venice. A traditional Venetian coffee bar, not much more than a hole in a wall. As we ordered our third espresso the young owner gave us a concerned look and cautioned “much caffeine…”. With our heart rates already a blur we encouraged the caring barrister to push on. This was the real deal, local merchants were gathering, standing and talking the way only Italians can and finishing the first bottles of vini bianchi by 10:30 in the morning.

Our next tourist check list item was a gondola ride. By 11am the Lagoon was getting choppy and boarding the skinny black Italian kayak was far from graceful. One of our intrepid fellow travelers decided the safest place to be with all the rocking and rolling was on her behind on the floor “lady, us’a da seat”. Gondola drivers have a surprisingly limited grasp of the Queen’s fine language.

Once in the canals the ride was less extreme sport and more leisurely. We gave a sigh of relief passing the shade of the stately Venetian homes peering past the iron gates separating us from the basements of people’s homes and businesses. The endless stream of ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs’ looking at the porticos with lunch tables set with red and white table cloths and little courtyards that become green oases set in red brick jungles were only broken by the chatter of the gondola drivers as they navigated our little flotilla through the twisting path.

A late lunch was planned on the Island of Burano, the home of a little fishing village that has become famous for the mixture of brightly coloured homes. The different colours supposedly to make it easier for the fisherman returning home at night to find their homes. I like the other story better, it makes it easier to find your home after too much vino. Lunch was at the Black Cat, a Michelin Guide restaurant, and of course seafood was the main part of the menu. One word, bellisimo!! The Island of Burano has another specialty, a white wine from grapes grown on the island and asking for ‘uno vini bianchi’ results in a bottomless custom made porcelain carafe being delivered.

With a belly full of fish and a calamari and a skinful of white wine we set sail for Lido through the lagoon full of late afternoon sunseekers out in boats of all shapes and sizes.

Lido is one of the Venetian islands that faces the lagoon and the Adriatic sea. With not much planned we strolled down to the ‘beach’. The late afternoon was busy with families in the water, under umbrellas and on sunbeds. The beach unfortunately is made up of sand, dirt and pieces of broken coral, so not quite the experience we are used to at home.

Venice is a fantastic place and well worth spending some more time. Unfortunately though, we leave again tomorrow this time destined for Rome.

Ciao baby,

Al and Tess

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Photos

St Mark's Square
Venice

The clock tower
Venice

Bella donna
Tess in Venice

Bell tower, Burano.
Becoming increasingly concerned by Italian builders

Al Gatto Nero.
The Black Cat, time for lunch at a Michelin rated restaurant

The Black Cat
Burano Island

Even duff duff goes by water.
Check the speakers in the front.

Comments

[Pete]

Good to hear!
Glad to know you guys are having fun. The weather looks good. Everything is fine here. It is starting to get hot. No real winter westerlys! Apparently all your riding buddies want to race you when you get back. It is an opportunity while you are a bit unfit and soft! Not me, I just hang on someones wheel and hope :) take care love Pete and Peta