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Published: December 2nd 2011
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I never thought that I would become an expert of Tuscan wines, but after three consecutive days of wine tastings in a row I think I’m at least somewhat of a connoisseur by now or really, really happy!
Tuscany is of course a major wine-producing region whose wines are world renowned. The most famous reds, notably Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico, are made from the Sangiovese grape of Tuscany. So it was without hesitation or a second thought that I signed up for the first “degustazione” (wine tasting) at the school one afternoon. We were briefed in the hierarchy of the Chianti Classico wines by a sommelier called Lorenzo. The highest designation a wine can receive in Italy is a DOCG label. Only 65 Italian wines have this designation of which 9 are from the Tuscany region; of the nine only one is white, Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The “piccolo fratello” (little brother) of Brunello has a DOC designation and is the Rosso di Montalcino. The Chianti Classico wines belong to a special consortium called “Gallo Nero” (black cockerel) so when purchasing a Chianti wine look for that special little black bird. Chianti is made in seven defined zones,
but the best wines generally come from further south. These wines need ageing and can be expensive; but Rosso di Montalcino, made for younger drinking, offers better value. As Lorenzo emphasized, Tuscan table wine can be cheap or expensive and the top-priced wines may not fit the traditional Chianti regulations, but are likely to be extremely good.
The second opportunity I had for winetasting was again organized by The Language School of Leonardo da Vinci where I am studying. It was a trip to Montalcino which is about 45 kms away from Siena. Escorted by our guide Ricardo, I went with fellow students from the school. The village’s foremost activity is wine-producing. The town is situated on the top of a hill and has a timeless character like most of the region. The streets are narrow, winding and steep. The highest point is the 14th century Fortezza with impressive ramparts, built in 1571. The fort has spectacular views over the surrounding countryside. Inside there is an Enoteca (wine shop) where of course, Brunello red wines are sold. Also inside the fortress is an ancient Sienese battle standard, a reminder that the town gave refuge to a band of rebels
after Florence conquered Siena in 1555. In remembrance of this, flag bearers from the village of Montalcino are given the honour of leading the parade before the Palio in Siena every year.
After visiting the village, we went to Torrenieri, a village in the Sangiovese region that specializes in Brunello wines. We had a tour and winetasting at “Cantine di Abbadia Ardenga”. This cantina also houses a museum which highlights the local winemaking tradition and in 990 is famous for having hosted the English Archbishop Sigerico on his return trip from a papal visit. For centuries, this cantina was also a stop along the Via “Francigena” which was an old pilgrimage route. This winemaker has over 700 hectares of land and ten vineyards of which five are solely for “Brunello di Montalcino”. We tasted five different wines, two DOCGs of Brunello de Montalcino and a Rosso di Montalcino. Not only were we treated to some of the best wines of the region but to fine bread, Reggiano Parmigiano cheese and prosciutto, salami , “il nuovo olio extravergine di oliva” and – yes there’s more – cantucci (an almond biscuit) with Vinsanto Sant’Antimo DOC. Words cannot describe how wonderful the
wine and the food tasted. For a while I was beginning to believe that I was in heaven and not Montalcino because everything was truly so heavenly. Everything is so simple and pure yet so full of flavour and rich textures. It was a glorious afternoon not only for the wonderful wine and delicious food but also the company that I was in. We were an international mix of culture and people from Mexico, Ireland, Brazil and Canada. Through it all we laughed, ate, joked and spoke in our “new” common language, Italian. In the car on the way home to Siena, to the shock of our tour guide Ricardo we shared all of the new curse words that we had learned in Italian and then decided to share the filthiest swear words of our mother tongues as well. It was an afternoon made special not only by the vision of rolling, vine-clad hills and silvery green olive groves but also for the beautiful gift of new friendships. Grazie mille Padraig, Tabatha, Monica, Manolo and Lorena per un ricordo meraviglioso (a marvelous memory).
The next night, Saturday I was invited to the Palazzo Pubblico for a free wine tasting of
Brunello wines which was sponsored by Slow Food Siena and encourages “buono, pulito e giusto”. Buono for good fresh daily food, rich in flavor and from the culture of the local area. Pulito for clean locally produced food that is produced in a manner that respects the environment and promotes good health. Giusto for fair and affordable prices for consumers and producers alike. Yet again the Brunellos were accompanied by the standard Reggiano Parmigiano, Prosciutto, salami and this time breadsticks but not just any breadsticks, the really tasty Italian kind which aren’t available back home. These are the kind that is never exported!
I will never forget these three consecutive days of wine tasting of some of the finest wines I have ever had the pleasure of tasting and sharing in some of the best company. I have died and gone to shhhh don’t tell anyone – Siena.
When in Siena……
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Virginia Pardal
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Congratulations from Brazil
Dear Mina, I loved your blog and I hope find something about our trip togeher soon here ! We enjoyed a lot and it was a pleasure spend this time together ! Hugs and Kisses, Virginia.