Modena - Firenze

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Jackie and I agreed we would take the A1 to Firenze (Florence). We called ahead and asked about the Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL) in Florence. Once you get to the city centre you come to ZTL and will be ticketed electronically if you go in this area without permission. Your credit card will be charged by the Car Rental company. If you are staying at a hotel or a parking garage they will arrange permission. Still, beware of one way streets, do not enter streets and pedestrian only areas as these will get you fined if you enter them.

Getting down to Firenze was by winding Autostrada through some very pretty foothills with dozens of tunnels. Vineyards stretch for miles in all directions. Another feature of Italy is the use of cameras for speed control and catching red light runners. A good GPS will warn you when you are in such areas - ours vibrated and chimed depending on the type of warning it was giving. Best is if you keep your eyes on the signs. Most street lights are placed on a 10 foot pole on the corners so, scan corners as you approach intersections. Often you'll come upon a red light and there will be a small green arrow allowing a straight through or right turn - it is unusual for North Americans to see this. Red turns on red are not normally permitted in Italy.

We arrived at the ZTL and went in the wrong entry point, backed out, after the driver behind me backed up without yelling or honking. I realized that since my license plate had German identity people actually were more sympathetic and patient. Our GPS got us to within a block of our hotel and then we couldn't find it, drove around it 4 times, probably went in all the places I just told you to avoid then, finally pulled over to find it on foot.

I stayed with the car because there is no parking everywhere. Jackie jumped out and I felt certain she would find the hotel with the help of a local. She was gone about 10 minutes and I was getting worried. I looked at the GPS and map again - when in tight quarters of these cities the GPS will not receive a satellite signal but you may be able to use it in simulation mode. I happened to look up from the map and there directly in front of my parked car was the Best Western Laurus al Duomo. We didn't see it previously because the sign was on the wall 6 feet off the ground and merely 1 foot square. The sign above the door was Vivahotel Laurus. I pulled directly in front and then stepped out to look for Jackie. After a few more minutes she came back down the street. As she crossed the road I pointed to the sign. She was both relieved and surprised we had missed it 4 times. Her experience with a police officer and two merchants within a block of the hotel was also surprising. The officer sent her in the wrong direction and the others just said "non sanno". It certainly wasn't like Budapest or Venice. These people didn't know and that was it! We hoped that not all Florentines were like this.

The attractions of Firenze are its Duomo, Ufizzi gallery Accademia, Pitti Palace and its renaissance architecture. Jackie and I checked the side entrance of the Duomo and found that mass would be conducted at 8:30am. We decided to attend and then look at the church afterward. Regular admission isn't until 10:00 so, this was a good way to avoid the crowds. We got to the church at 8:00 and went inside just as vespers were taking place before mass. Approximately 15 priests were chanting and in that huge space of the cathedral. It was quite beautiful to hear. We climbed the dome afterward and had to pay about 6 Euro for the privilege.

We visited the Accademia and gazed upon the enormous statue David carved from marble over 500 years ago. Ponte Vecchio was jammed with tourists but, everyone still wants to stand upon it. After crossing the bridge we went to the Pitti Palace were the Medici family helped determine renaissance history. We picked up some CDs for the drive and Jackie bought a leather purse. Of course we had the obligatory gelato at Vivoli, one of Firenze's finest.

We went to Rubaconte Ristorante, Pizzeria and there met Paulo who single handed helped to change our opinion of the Florentine citizens. He had spent 12 years in London and said he was surprised at the attitude of his fellow Florentines. He felt since smiles are free we should all dispense more of them. The food at this restaurant was very fresh and the pizza very tasty. Our second day turned out to be a great day.

After eating the complimentary continental breakfast on the 6th floor terrace Jackie and I packed up and left. We understand why our son Dalton loved Firenze so much - it has a way of growing on you.

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Photos

Duomo
Duomo 2 blocks from our hotel

Walking Firenze
Taking a stroll in Firenze

Parking Patrol
I am happy it wasn't me this time.

Ponte Vecchio
Ponte Vecchio