Stress-free Stresa

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Stress-free Stresa lived up to its reputation today, as we found out that YESTERDAY was the last day many of the tourist attractions were open, including the famous Borromean Palace and Gardens on Isola Bella, and that starting today the ferry schedule and destinations served are now much reduced. Although we were disappointed, the situation allowed for a more mellow day, and we found enough to amuse ourselves...

We caught the ferry to Isola Bella, anyway, and had a look around. The island felt deserted, save for the ubiquitous booths selling flea market goods lining the street leading from the ferry. We wandered the narrow, cobblestone streets, and found the only things open were the tourist shops. Since the ferry didn’t return for an hour, we were “forced” to have a look, and ended up making a major purchase of a Deruta ceramic pitcher, decorated with lemons and peacock feathers, very unusual... Shopkeeper Sabrina was great with the soft sell, which she accomplished in the guise of helping me practice my Italian, the topic for discussion being the process and styles of painted designs on the ceramics. Even Dave was hooked!

Onward to Isola Superiore, AKA Isola dei Pescatori (Island of the Fishermen), so named since before tourism, fishing was the main occupation there. It was even tinier than Isola Bella, and it took us no time to wander its narrow streets and soak in its quaintness. We had lunch at a little café by the edge of the lake. My plate of polenta slices and three different cheeses was wonderful!

Next, onward to Pallanza, a town across the lake from Stresa, where we walked from the harbor around the point to a lovely botanical garden called the Villa Taranto. Originally created in 1931 by a Scottish sea captain who retired to Lago Maggiore, and who apparently was obsessed with importing specimens of plants from all over the world, it covers 40 acres with 20,000 formal and informal plantings. We wandered through, noting the things that would have been in bloom a little earlier in the season, but enjoying what was there, especially a huge, spectacular dahlia garden.

We returned to Stresa and had dinner at a charming, modern restaurant called Il Vicoletto, just off the main piazza, which was recommended by Carla, one of the lovely women who work as receptionists at our hotel. We thoroughly enjoyed our risotto with porcini mushrooms and a large appetizer plate that included a new culinary experience for us-- “lardo”, very thinly sliced pork fat, served on a small slice of toasted bread. Amazingly, we both loved it! Sorry, too classy a place to whip out my camera and take a photo ;-)

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Photos

Waiting for the Ferry
Note the blue skies at last!

Who Looks Happier About this Sale?!
Sharon with her purchase and the charming Sabrina

View of Isola dei Pescatori from Isola Bella
...with snow-capped Italian Alps in the distance

Greeter at Ferry Dock, Isola dei Pescatori
There are cats everywhere on the islands!

Still evidence of fishing...
...though tourism seems to have taken over the town.

Street Scene, Isola dei Pescatori
("Chiesa" means church)

San Vittore Church on Isola dei Pescatori
Some parts of this ancient church date to the mid-ninth century

Fresco Fragment
San Vittore Church, Isola dei Pescatori

Unusual Lily Pads...
in the Victorian Greenhouse ponds

Dahlias.1
Dave is entranced by the amazing variety of dahlias at the Giardinia Villa Taranto