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Published: July 12th 2011
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Buon giorno la famiglia e l'amico e l'amica,
That is good morning to family and male and female friends (according to the phrase book).
We had a long but not unpleasant flight. We caught up with four recent movies and I read a book so the time was not wasted. Our time in Rome was brief so we checked into our small room in the Welrome Hotel near the station. The hosts, Mary and Carlos, were a wealth of information and very concerned that we might miss something but we assured them we would be back later in the week. They are minding our suitcases while we back pack to the Cinque Terre and have assured us they are giving us a large room when we get back. I've booked a tour of the Vatican for Saturday and John is coming too!!!
Our train to Riomaggiore train left one and a half hours late. Our four hour train journey was through green countryside with regular glimpses of the sea. We went through the Careira marble area with blocks of white stone alongside the track. There were four Italians in our compartment plus a rabbit and a dog in
the corridor. I couldn't get over the way everyone talked animatedly even though they were complete strangers. When the ticket collecter arrived he chatted for ten minutes as well. I can't imagine that happening in Australia.
At Riomaggiore we had a 300 metre steep climb to our apartment. The lift we had read about was not working. Our landlord, Emiliano was very helpful when he finally arrived and gave us lots of hints on places to eat and where to go. He suggested that instead of getting a three day parks pass we get a ferry pass for one day and a train and walking track pass the next day. He also told us that after 7.30 the walk along the Via dell’Amore to Manarola was free and we should have dinner at one of three restaurants he suggested. After a shower and a drink on the balcony we walked along the edge of the ocean, through tunnels, finally emerging at Manarola. Then it was a steep climb up a series of steps and roads to Billy’s, a restaurant recommended by Emiliano and Trip Adviser. We had to wait 20 minutes to get a table but they gave us
some lightly sparkling wine to keep us going. Our table was beside the kitchen on the outside, with a view of the setting sun over the ocean. The food was good. I had mussels in garlic and tomato followed by a grilled fish and John had butterflied raw anchovies soaked in lemon juice followed by stuffed mussels. We shared two half bottles of white and red and were given complimentary glasses of lemoncino and a purplish liqueur that tasted like cough medicine. It must have had some kick because I walked home, fell into bed and was asleep within minutes.
The next day we bought fresh local produce and enjoyed lunch on our balcony. There is so much to see. A man brings up his groceries with a pulley to his balcony, people hang their washing out on lines off their windows, small gardens full of flowers and vegetables flourish everywhere, old dogs hobble around and cats sit eating anchovies. There are many elderly people, all of whom appear to have knee or hip problems so climbing up and down countless steps does not seem to be good for them. There are children in the square riding bikes and
scooters and teenagers playing soccer in front of the church. A boy plays Greensleeves on his guitar. The houses are all pinks, ochre and yellow with the occasional green. Nearly all have dark green shutters. We are wondering if the National Parks gives them a limited choice of colours to use.
Wednesday dawned wet and cloudy - not a good day for a boat trip. I bought two E20 all day tickets even though the ticket seller gloomily forecast the ferries might not run because of the swell. We saw what she meant as the ferry came in. The landing spot was just a piece of rock and we had to run along a gangplank over the bow that swung around in the waves.
The boat set off in the swell and we filmed and photographed the scenic villages under a cloudy sky. First we passed Manarola, the most spectacular from the sea I think. The next town is Corniglia which has no jetty and is perched on a hilltop. Vernazza was next but our ferry went straight to Monterosso del Mare. Here we were able to get off fairly easily as it had a large jetty. The
town is much bigger than Riomaggiore and has an interesting medieval centre. We stopped for capucchino and cake in a bar which was very busy. We were kept amused by looking at pictures on the wall of huge waves roaring up Monterosso’s main street.
As we passed a Post Office I thought I would go in and buy some stamps for the post cards. The man behind the counter waved me away and said “Go to the shop at the back” or so I thought. I went outside and looked around but could see no shop at the back. I went in and this time he said, “Go to the tobacco shop”. We walked down the road and into the tobacco shop but they said they don’t sell stamps anymore and to go to the Post Office. One more try at the PO and we were sent away, I suppose because there was a huge queue waiting and only one man serving. I don’t know when I’ll be able to send the post cards. Why stamps should come with cigarettes is a mystery.
At 11.30 we caught a ferry to Vernazza. It was smaller than Riomaggiore and seemed
more touristy if that is possible. We only had 40 minutes there but wandered around the streets. It has a stream through the top of the town that goes underground as you pass the railway. Small bridges cross the river from the road to the houses. There were lots of people waiting for the train. Maybe they were tired after doing the first 90 minute hike from Monterosso.
The next ferry at 12.20 was supposed to stop at Manarola but they must have decided it was too rough and kept on going. It did stop at Riomaggiore but we stayed on because we were going to Portovenere. As we approached Portovenere we saw a pointed rock with a cross on it, a massive castle on the left hand side of the entrance to the harbour and a church on top of a rock, also at the entrance.
Portovenere was such a pretty town with its C15 castle and row of pastel houses along the waterfront. We spotted Tri Torri right away at the back of a square near the marina. Barbara had sent us a text to tell us about it from "Travel" in SMH. John was hungry
so we headed there first. The restaurant was lovely. It was all beige and white with a view of the water and the castle. We both ordered a E25 main course of mixed grilled seafood plus a salad and two small carafes of house white and red plus a bottle of water. The food was delicious. We had scampi, prawns (huge), calamari (tender, grilled on charcoal) and fish. The waiter prepared the charcoal grilled fish for us, removing bones and fins and opening it up to make it easier to eat. It came to E65.
We had time to buy a gelato each and eat it before our ferry came in. Back at Riomaggiore we bought some food for dinner - bread, tomatoes, cheese, salad, onion, prosciutto and a small cake. Sitting on the balcony watching the town below and eating and drinking good local produce was a pretty nice way to end the day.
John is happy that we have a brand new LCD TV in our room. We can catch up on BBC news which is all terrible. Even Australia got a mention with worst economic performance for ten years due to floods and cyclones. At least we learnt about the cucumbers but now they may not be to blame. I hope the tomatoes are OK.
We are off to do our Cinque Terre walk now so will talk to you in Rome.
Ciao!
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