A bad time for Calves - Tales from the Rocky Outcrops

---

Well yesterday I mentioned how I liked the phrase 'rocky outcrops', after this morning I have to say they have gone right down in my estimation. More on that in a bit. First of all a little update from last night...

I set out after my blog moment yesterday with ukulele and decided to return to my old Castello haunt. Well it had people in it so I found a bench nearby. I was just cracking open my bottle of beer when I realised there were some tiny mosquitos getting crazy around my lower legs. By the time I'd realised they were on the attack I must have been bitten about 20 times. My calves are a disaster zone now. This morning I took a look and the bites were not only red but had gone white around the edges - it looked really terrible, I felt a bit faint just seeing them. I don't mind the odd bite but that's just taking the piss and too much blood.

Anyway back to last night. So after I finished my beer I set out again and found a lovely wine bar on a cliff. I decided to have some wine and as they had it on tap I asked for a half litre - I thought that would be about 2 glasses worth - in fact it was about 5 glasses worth and after the first glass I was already swooning a bit. I had a choice at that point when I was still vaguely compost mentis, to see it through and drink the lot or to just abandon it. The former option would undoubtedly have serious consequences and given the cliff-top nature of my situation I realised I had to be sensible purely in the interests of survival. So I had two glasses and gave the rest of the decanter to a jolly couple next door. Their jollity thereby increased, I felt good about the whole thing. It's not much fun getting very drunk on your own. Anyway I made my way back towards the marina via a cliffside path and found a perfect ukulele spot below the path with an incredibly beautiful view out to sea. It was really great and I wished I had more songs but thought it best to head back before dark. I would have done a video but there was nowhere to put my camera without a perilous climb, and I was being captain sensible, so tough.

Today I got up too early again - had a bucket of tea from the Caffe Giamatti then set off for the train to Vernazza. The idea was to walk from there to Monterosso, the furthest of the Cinque Terre and then sail back on a boat. I was fairly blasé about the whole thing as my first Cinque Terre route was such a doddle. However me and my calves were in for a shock. There were about 7 rocky outcrops hidden away and each was a steep climb and descent. The first was the worst - it was incredibly hot and just went up and up. I suppose my muscles started to get used to it so by the fourth rocky outcrop I was bounding up and down, tourists flying off the narrow path into the sea as I hustled through.

My mansandals certainly came into their own - my feet are absolutely fine and I had no trouble with all the craggy stones. I saw a lady in girly sandals with pain and anguish in her eyes, as she stumbled past me I whispered in her ear 'it's all about the mansandals, deary'. I think she learned the hard way.

Now I feel pretty good about the whole thing, it's just my poor calves, after the assault of the mosquitos they now are suffering the strain of all those steps. After a few descents they started to go all quivery. Don't give up I pleaded with them and they got me through. The walk finished on a lovely beach. I didn't swim not having the right attire or anywhere to leave my stuff, but I did wade in up to my knees. It was lovely. Tomorrow I'm going in!! No excursions just beach.

I'm still in Monterosso still now, escaping the midday sun in this nice cool internet cafe. I had a lovely spaghetti al pesto - excellent. I think I could do a pesto map of Italy highlighting the top pesto havens I've been to. There was a lovely one in Assisi last year - Carlo's place. He was lovely and so was his pesto.

Right I'm going to attempt to put some photos up here. It's about time...

Cx

---

Photos

Corniglia pizzeria
lamps made of kitchen utensils. Very effective

Comments

[Rufus]

Top manboots! If you rellay want the whole German lesbian image, go for mannish Birkies. And you should really have finished the booze - a gorl needs her sustenance. Waiting with bated breath for the next instalment. X

[Robin Catchpole]

Rocky outcrops
I love the pictures and well done on sandal choice. I remember pleading to mum to get me some Asterix style sandals, I'm glad she couldn't find any. Have a great rest of journey. Lots of love Robin

[Sarah]

Death to les moustiques
Clare! How amazing. Moment before reading today's post I recklessly ended a mosquito's life in our very own bathroom. So those tiny Italians ones are ferocious, eh? It's like being attacked by piranhas. I hope you're resisting the temptation to scratch yourself too much. I found this website that suggests you rub a piece of freshly-cut onion on the bite for a soothing effect. You might not want to try that though. A dab of toothpaste works too, apparently? Oh, and your pictures are quite nice :) Take care mon cachou, and go pesto x

[Clarification]

Hi Rufus, I'm glad you approve of the footwear... Birkensocks would be a step too far (cha cha boom!) and as for drinking up all that wine it would have got very messy, you haven't seen these cliffs. I still think I did the right thing! Cx

[Clarification]

Asterix sandals would be pretty cool but not terribly suitable for the rocky terrain. Hope all's well with the kiddo and wifo! By the way I need to organise the next ukulele Sunday... let me know a good Sunday in Sept or Oct (I know you're moving house, but we're very easy!) cx

[Clarification]

I would gladly smother myself in toothpaste and onion juice - these bites are horrible. I've been using antihystemine cream rather lavishly... Ciao ma petite champignon! Cx