Cinque Terre


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October 31st 2008
Published: November 14th 2008
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Cinque Terre




Of all the hiking trails I've hiked, the Cinque Terre coastal trail from Riomaggiore to Monterosso is up there, perhaps the best by far only because it's unique and different to the other inland trails. Nature and history have conspired to create the Five towns known in this region as theCinque Terre - Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso (five land) are tucked away in a series of little inlets at the very eastern side of the Ligurian Riviera. Breathtaking coastal views, a mosaic of a thousands shades, old houses with there characteristic colours clinging to rocks that drop sheer to the sea or perched on imposingly jagged hills. All reaching to the Sky's and lifting your gaze to the spectacular terraced slopes filled with vine yards and Olive Groves.


I based myself in La Spezia an old Military Naval town and from there a 20minute train ride took me to Riomaggiore, where I began my trail heading Northwards to Monterrosso. Now I have conflicting facts as to the actual distance of the trail, some say it's 9.0km and others say it's 12.0km and taking an average of five hours to complete at an easy pace. I'm going with 9.0km as my entrance ticket and map into the National Park depicts this. Commencing at 10:30am and following the white & red markers I was off.


Entering the main gates you embark imeadiately on a charming walk, entirely carved out of the rock overhanging the sea known as the Via Dell' Amore (Lovers Lane). Here the trail continues on, hovering at an altitude of around 100meters above sea level. You climbing, descend and level out as you go on old cobble stone paths, stone bridges and old Mule-tracks, all the while passing through spectacular views of cliffs, the adjacent coast line and cultivated terraces, offset against the rich flora of this area. Arriving at each town that make up the famousCinque Terre - here a stop over is deserving, a beer or two, gelati perhaps while meandering through the narrow alleyways exploring the hidden treasures - local crafts and arts, sample the local wine and specialities typical of the region and taking in the full vibrant colours of the old houses perched on the hill sides. Now I´m no sure this was all to be considered in the five hour time limit it would take to complete this trail, so it was well worth the trip back again travelling by train to enable you to take your time exploring and appreciate each town.


An hour hike out of Vernazza (4th Town) heading to Monterosso (the last Town) and ascending high I came to a spectacular panoramic viewpoint of Vernazza below, soon realising I was off the beaten track on the count I was to high and no white & red markers to be seen. Vernazza to Monterosso was only 3.0km apart, approx 2.0hrs hike, already one hour in, there was no point in turning back so I pushed on until I found a main road knowing this would lead toMonterosso. Still accending ever so slowly I came to a clearing where I could see the Town of Monterosso in the distance below. I was too high up, wondering how the hell am i going to get down there, the road must descend some distance from here. I soon found myself at an old Sanctuary, there are a number of sanctuaries scattered around this region - SaintMaddona Di Soviore was easily located on my basic map. I was at an elevation of 565meters above sea level and there on a brick pier I found a white and red marker 'Track No. 9' - this would lead me the way down 2.5km down hill through winding tracks until I finally arrived in Moterosso - time 6:30pm, 8.0hrs later and some 12.0km of hiking - I figured the detour added another three kilometers.


The beer was well worth the prize in the end, I was soon joined with another two travellers Ross (aussie) and Bridget (British) who also completed the trail and together we shared our tales into the night over a few beers until the last train back home.
















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