Cinque Terre

---

October 20, 2010 - Cinque Terre

It’s almost obscene to have a 5:45am wake-up call when cruising but the tour to the Cinque Terre (CT) leaves at 7:20. A quick breakfast and shower and I make my blurry way to the gangway. I originally planned to do this on my own but decided at the last minute to take the ship’s tour.
We board the bus in a light rain, the sky overcast and grey. Our route will take us from the plains of Tuscany to the mountains of Liguria and the farther north we drive the brighter the skies become. We pass Pisa and can see the leaning tower and learn that the cathedral and the baptistery domes also lean. The entire Miracle Plaza was constructed too close to the Arno and the ground is too soft to support the heavy structures. Soon, the marble mountains of Cararra marble appear looking like snow on the slopes. We stop for a rest break and I buy a cappuccino and try to keep my eyelids from falling.
We arrive at the port town of LaSpezia, home to the Italian Navy and a significant American Navy presence. Soon we are climbing into the CT.
The Cinque Terra is a series of five villages located on the cliffs of the Italian Riviera south of Portofino and north of Rome. The villages were settle about 1,000 years ago by Genoans who where tired of the endless fighting. Each village was settled near a stream and a water mill brought water into the village.
For 1,000 years the only way to get to the villages was by horse, donkey, boat or foot. Even to get from one village to another took many hours. Intermarriage was common and everyone was a “cousin”. Despite the genetic problems, the villagers were remarkably healthy, living often past 100 year.
One reason is exercise. The first villages had little arable land so they built dry wall terraces up the cliff walls for 1,000’ from the sea. Most of the rock and the soil had to be carried in by hand. They planted vineyards and olive groves and the harvest, even today, is mostly by hand. Baskets of grapes or olives are carried down the cliffs on the shoulders or head. Today there are a few monorails helping with the chores but don’t think Disney World. These are very narrow rails the climb almost vertically and can carry two wagon size crates and a couple of men. As the rider and they will say that going up is nothing, it’s riding down backwards that will scare you silly.
The next reason for longevity is diet. Their food sources were the sea and the terraces. Olive oil, wine, fish and vegetables were staples. There was no red meat, dairy and few eggs.
Today the CT is a UNESCO heritage site and a National Park. One can easily get from village to village by the train, the Park Service shuttle buses and numerous hiking trails. Residents can drive from the outskirts of their village to the outskirts of another. Trekkers come for all over to explore the CT by foot.
We begin are tour at Manarola, The bus drop’s us outside of town and we walk along the stream into the main square. It is like walking into a movie set except this is real, real people live and work here. We wander around the square and in and out of the winding narrow streets. The houses are painted brightly. Boats line the main street, as it is too rough to be on the water today. We pass through a tunnel (why do people feel compelled to paint graffiti everywhere) and begin our walk to the village of Riomaggiore along the track called the Lover’s Lane. This trail hugs the cliff and the views of the water and the villages are picture postcard perfect. All along the trail, padlocks are hung from the fences and the rockslide nets, symbolizing eternal love. The walk is about ½ mile and soon we are in Riomaggiore. Here another tunnel connects us to the town but this village got smart.
They have lined their tunnel with recycled tiles, rock and mirrors ala Gaudi. Surprisingly, or maybe not, there is not on speck of graffiti. I check out a grocery shop as it’s after 12:00 and I’m getting a bit hungry. Everything looks fresh and there is a good selection of fruits and vegetables. Now it’s time to board the train for the town of Vernazza.
This little village is right on the shore and it is as lovely and picturesque as the others. We have ample time to explore and enjoy lunch. Seafood is freshly caught and beautiful here and I have a large bowl of mussels and clams in a savory broth with Cinque Terre white wine. From my table I can see the spray as the sea crashes against the break wall, the protected harbor where small boats are moored and a young woman braves the water for a dip. The meal is wonderful, so fresh and tasty, and the bread is fresh and flavorful. I pick up more wine, CT white, and a bottle of Lemoncino (like Lemonchello) that will serve as my after dinner liquor.
All to soon it’s time to get back on the train and head for LaSpazia and our bus back to the ship. On reflection, I am glad that I took the tour because our guide, Fulvia, was very knowledgeable and interesting with a dry sense of humor. On the other hand I wish I had more time to explore the towns and visit Monterosso al Mare and Corniglia.
There are many places in Italy that I would love to return to and spend more time exploring; Venice, Florence and the CT are three.
When I get back to the ship at 4:30 I find that my travel agent has made reservations for me at the Pinnacle Grill for 5:30. At first I decide to blow it off but then say what the heck, it’s free but I knew I would just be picking at dinner. NOT! Crab cakes and fillet mignon and potatoes with crème Brule and cappuccino and a flight of wine to complement the meal and I was a happy and satisfied woman.
Now it’s time to relax and rock gently to sleep.

---