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Published: June 14th 2008
Pompeii
Roman statue welcomes visitorsWe arrived in Bari, Italy on Apr. 14th, well rested after a wonderful sleep. For this, we were thanking our wise decision to stay in an actual bed in a cabin on the ferry from Greece to Italy. No more stiff deck chairs that were impossible to get used to, our usual level of ferry comfort in Greece. We said goodbye to the ferry and hello to Bari, making our way to the bus station to buy a ticket to Naples, our first stop.
Our visit was brief, only our time spent waiting for the bus. But in this short time we were able enjoy our first meal. We sat down in a nearby cafe and tasted our first great Italian cappuccino and a mouth-watering panini of procciutto, mozzarella and arugula. A delicious way to start our Italian jaunt. We hopped on a bus and after a quick and pretty ride past rolling hills covered with crops and old ruined stone buildings, we were in Naples. The birthplace of the original great pizza and home of the occasional car bombing, courtesy of the mob, who are apparently just as busy as ever making money doing their thing.
In Naples,
Pompeii
Mount Vesuvius looms over the ruins which is supposedly one of the seedier cities in Italy to visit, we found a reasonably priced and decent place to stay. Then we headed off to try what the rest of the country and all other travellers love to enjoy, the Italian pizza. Walking the streets on our way to one of the best pizza places in town, we instantly noticed the ruggedness of these parts, which at first reminded us a bit of Cairo. Lots of interesting characters, both the suave and shady types, roamed around, going about their daily lives. Vespas cruised around, sometimes on the sidewalks, just missing people wandering about. It was a city that felt busy and truly alive, with a constant hum of action.
We made it there, and sat down in this unassuming little place that had been serving great pizza for generations, apparently since 1870. The main choice, the only one of two, was the Margherita pizza, a simple and almost boring sounding recipe of tomato sauce, cheese, and crust. It arrived at our table uncut and looked rather plain and simple.
But after sawing through it with our knife and fork, we realized that it was like no
Pompeii
Storeroom filled with artifacts and victims of the eruption pizza we had ever tried! A very fresh and flavourful thin crust along with a great tomato sauce and wonderful tasty mozzarella cheese. It was perfect to try this recipe that had been in use for over a hundred years, passed from generation to generation. We now know why pizza eating is a national pastime in Naples.
The next morning, we left our place to visit some of the largest and well preserved ruins in the history of Ancient Rome: the vast city of Pompeii. It was just a quick train trip away from Naples, and as we rattled along, we noticed the high speed of the train, which made it very important to hang on tight. In just over an hour, we were there, ready to be amazed, stepping back in time almost 2000 years.
And amazed we were. The archaeological sight was huge; we certainly needed the guidebook and map that we bought at the gift shop before entering. We wandered the maze of cobble-paved streets for hours, through the sun, then a light rain, and then a treacherous hail storm that caused all visitors, including us, to run squealing for cover, at least for a
Pompeii
Indoor mural and garden short while. The winds and rain took control of the area and kept things exciting, but that didn't stop us from feeling what it was like to walk around in an old Roman town.
Buildings were so well preserved, many with colourful murals that decorated the walls, and intricate mosaics that paved the floors. The roads, structures, temples and amphitheatres were in such good shape that you could imagine people walking around, going about their business. We pictured people visiting the bakery, the butchers, or the brothels, which there were a few of.
The high level of preservation is due to the meters of ash and rock that spewed from Mount Vesuvius when it erupted in 79 AD. Many escaped, but many residents of Pompeii, including men, women, children, and even animals met their death there. The ash that covered the city also encased it's victims, and plaster casts were made during the excavation of the city, showing incredible detail of each person's clothing and face.
Another impressive sight that we had to see on our trip to Naples was the National Archaeology Museum. It was full of huge Roman marble statues, original mosaics from Pompeii, a
Bari
We couldn't believe our luck, our favorite snack bar! large Egyptian artifact section and even an 'x-rated' exhibit of ancient erotic art, made back in the time of the Romans. Also included was a temporary exhibit of modern art, which depicted Roman settings and historic events. In all, a very interesting museum, filled with some incredible pieces of art and artifacts.
The next day we left Naples, heading to one of the most talked about cities in Europe: Rome. We hopped on a three hour train ride and easily made it there on the efficient Italian train system. Rome, the place where all roads lead. This was apparently said because the Romans had such an incredible network of well constructed and well maintained routes throughout their empire. Happily, we could say the same for the train system, because there we were, with so much to see, an historic sight on every corner. The Pantheon, the Vatican City, the Colosseum, hundreds of pretty piazzas and fountains, and the list goes on forever.
We set off into the neighbourhood around the train station. We searched for a while, looking for a cheaper hotel, but to no avail. Every place we looked at wasn't cutting it for us. It started
Pompeii
Ancient wheel ruts on the Roman roads to rain and we were getting just a bit frustrated. As we walked by a Kebab place, a couple of Indian men jumped out from the shop and asked us if we were looking for a room. Hesitantly we said yes, and they told us that they had a hotel and could give us a cheaper deal then anyone else. They quoted their price, which was ten euro less than anything else we had found, so we decided to check it out. And this is how we met Babu and his business partner, Monti, who we later learned were from Bangladesh.
Babu was a large, friendly man who walked us to see his hotel. He was very excited about showing it off to us, since it was newly opened. As it was quite a few blocks away, he must have sweated off around five pounds by the time we got there. We were taken to a place on the third story of an old building. Entering, we noticed that the room looked like many of the ones we had seen in India. There were bright contrasting colours, cleanliness (or lack of) and an amateur paint job. But the price
was right, they offered free breakfast and internet, and Babu was so funny that we just had to take it.
The main down side was that there was only one washroom/shower that everyone in the so-called hotel shared, including Babu, who we learned lived there too. Later we discovered that there aren't too many people who can snore like that man. We felt sorry for the people who were staying in the room beside his. They must have had a sleepless night or two.
He was very nice though, and marked all the incredible sights of Rome for us on the map that he gave us. Every night he would slide a card under our bedroom door that granted us a free Italian breakfast from a restaurant next door. Breakfast consisted of a cappuccino and cornetto (croissant), a perfect jump start for a day of sightseeing.
Our first bit of Rome action would take us to the Vatican City, which is actually the smallest nation in the world. An easy metro ride and we were there, home to the Pope, the only absolute monarch in Europe. We got there early and just missed the massive line that
Pompeii
Pillar detail formed suddenly behind us, and somehow became even bigger later in the day.
We made our way into St. Peter's Basilica, completed in 1626, to see the inside of the one of the most vast and impressive religious buildings in the world. We had the luck to join a very good, free guided tour and learn a bit of the history of this enormous and amazing place. The size of the interior completely overwhelms you as you step inside, and the wealth of sculpture inside finishes you off.
Most beautiful is the famous, lifelike and tender 'Pieta', the image of Mary holding and lamenting her son, sculpted in marble by Michelangelo. Another fascinating piece was the ancient bronze statue of St. Peter. His feet have been touched and kissed by pilgrims so often over the centuries that one foot is worn to a stub. In all, the building and it's contents were quite a sight to take in.
Once leaving this rich building, we continued on to the Vatican Museums, which house the vast collection of wealth and art pieces owned by the Roman Catholic Church. Not to mention that it's also the home of the Sistine
Chapel. So much history and art fills this place that a visitor truly needs hours to see it all. There were Egyptian, Etruscan, Greek and Roman antiquities, a vast and colourful tapestry gallery, a map gallery, and the building interiors themselves, all richly painted and ornately decorated. All of these treasures had been collected by various popes over the last five hundred years.
Then the Vatican Palaces, which are home to the most amazing Renaissance paintings. Most famous are the four rooms decorated by Raphael, including the well known 'School of Athens', and the Sistine Chapel, home to Michelangelo's 'Creation' and 'Last Judgement', all well known paintings. Other walls in this amazing chapel are painted by Botticelli and numerous famous Italian artists. Mostly, it is the brightness of the colours and details of these great pieces that really stand out, but to see them in person was worth the stiff necks and sore jaws gained from gaping and gawking. Visiting the Vatican City is certainly a day trip well spent.
The next morning we set out early for another sight that everyone visiting Rome must see. In fact, you can't help but see it, whether you like it
Pompeii
Garden of the Fugitives, filled with victims or not, due to it's sheer enormity. The Colosseum: such an experience to stand inside and think of the bloodshed and fighting between gladiators and various large wild beasts such as bears, crocodiles, panthers and lions. Sometimes men and creatures were thrown in all at once, while the fifty thousand or more fans went crazy, yelling, screaming, and probably fighting each other! Even the odd slave or prisoner would be tossed in to finish off his sentence by being slaughtered in the show.
With imagination, it was possible to think of the shouting crowds, stinky toilets, refreshments, boxed seats, wooden floors covered in sand, with trap doors and props mounted on pulleys, the men and beasts, and the vast amount of blood that was spilled in this great arena. All this happening just shy of 2000 years ago, or as Andy puts it, 'a heck of a long time ago'.
After leaving the Colosseum, we continued on to see Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum, sights included in our ticket. We climbed up the attractive hill, which is said to have been the home of the wolf that raised the twin infants Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders
National Archaeology Museum, Naples
Detail of a Roman marble sarcophagus of Rome. It was a gorgeous sight, filled with crumbling ruins in a park-like setting, with great views of the city.
Once up there, it was easier to see the layout and size of the city, and imagine Rome as it had been when it was the centre of the world. We spent quite a while there, slowly walking through another piece of history. The view and the warm weather made for some nice pictures that captured the good scenery as well.
Then we finished off at the Roman Forum, the former commercial and judicial center, the ancient heart of the city. Filled with white marble, arches and temples, it is a photographer's and historian's dream. After all these heavy historical sights, we needed a place to relax and wander, a green and pretty place, so where else to go to but...a cemetery.
We took off walking to this different sort of place. The Protestant Cemetery, basically a non-Catholic cemetery of people who have met their end in Rome. After a little trouble finding it, we ended up making it there just an hour before closing. The hour flew by pretty quickly as we walked, admiring the
National Archaeology Museum, Naples
Alexander the Great, detail of mosaic from a house in Pompeii incredibly detailed headstones, well kept gardens, and gorgeous flower beds. There were lots of cats, waiting for some attention from visitors, as well as the graves of English poets Keats and Shelley. Keats apparently requested the words 'Here lies One Whose Name was writ in Water' to be engraved on his well visited grave. In our opinion, this place is a great stop on any trip to Rome.
The following day we set off walking to scope out some of the sights around town. We strolled by the Trevi Fountain that spreads out over the whole piazza. It features Neptune's chariot surrounded by a bunch of sea horses. At this fountain, visitors throw a coin over their shoulder into the fountain to ensure a trip back to Rome. If you throw a second one in, it grants you a wish.
Then we toured on to the Pantheon, home to the tomb of Rafael, as well as many other Italian Kings. The dome of this old Roman temple is an architect's dream, even by todays standards. It is made of solid poured concrete, without any supports, and is most likely the best preserved Roman structure in the world. To
be inside and look up at the ceiling was unbelievable, especially since it was built around 125 AD.
We continued on to Piazza Navona, where there were numerous artists displaying their paintings and drawing sketches of tourists. This was a great place to sit and people watch, seeing them mingling and eating gelato by the cone load. It is home to the gorgeous Fountain of Four Rivers by Bernini, which was sadly covered up for a good cleaning and some restoration work. But it was still a wonderful place to take in the atmosphere of the city.
Rome was full of beautiful parks, full of people relaxing and having fun. The main one that we wandered through was called Villa Borghese, a massive green space. People could rent bikes or golf carts, sit in the grass, have a picnic with their loved ones, or watch one of the many street performers wowing the crowds of locals and visitors. It was a perfect place to walk around and enjoy. We had wanted to visit the Museo Borghese, located on the grounds, but had to miss it. It is a high demand sight, tickets were sold out for a few
days, and we were soon to be on the move.
The city was full of tourists, which wasn't surprising at all. So many incredible sights and so many things to do. Luckily, most of the main attractions were pretty close together, mostly within walking distance. Everywhere we turned, there was another amazing sight. It seemed that there were statues on every corner by some famous artist, or a cool fountain gushing water in the air while people looked on with wide eyes.
It was a city that we had truly enjoyed, but our trip would continue on to Siena, a medieval town in Tuscany. Not as hectic as the likes of Rome, but with all the charm. The only thing left to do was to say goodbye to the Big Babu, and wish him luck in the hotel business and his future endeavors. Hopefully the coin in the fountain worked and we will one day end up in Rome again.
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