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Published: October 26th 2006
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Capri
Capri coastline Chapter 19
Oh Capri, the elusive island!
The weather had improved vastly, and Capri was finally on the agenda for the day. They headed down to the harbour to catch one of the fast ferries. (11.60 euros return). The ferries were rather spacious, with many airline style seats facing a giant television screen churning out more crap Italian programmes. (they really are that bad) One could only stand on the deck at the back of the boat, as a salty spray massaged an already wet face. As the boat left Sorrento, the propelling motion made the very calm sea a little choppy, churning Maya’s stomach immediately. She quickly grabbed her trilogy and tried to concentrate on hobbits. Martin stayed on deck trying to capture the views on film. Twenty five minutes later, they arrived at Capri’s Marina grande.
Just of the coast of Naples and Salerno, between Cape Miseno and Amalfi, surrounded by clear blue seas you will find the island of Capri. Caesar Augustus was the first to discover the charm of Capri when he first visited in 29BC. So charmed was he that he gave up the neighbouring island of Ischia and Naples to settle on
this new gem. The first inhabitants to settle in Capri were the Greek “Teleboi” who arrived in the 8th century BC.
Only the fortified walls of the Greek acropolis survive today. The name is believed to derive from the Greek word “Kapros” meaning wild boar or from the Latin word “Capreae” meaning goat. The island extends over an area of 12 square kilometres and is 3 kilometres wide. The island’s magical solitude and rustic simplicity has been attracting visitors here for many years now and has become the place for celebrity spotting.
As they stepped onto the island they noticed the funicular was out of action so two minibuses later, with Maya sat up the front next to the driver, did they finally reach Capri’s centre a further 3 kilometres from the harbour. On first impressions , what stood before them was a very tired looking town. Apparently a popular destination for the rich and famous such as Omar Sharriff, Dustin Hoffman and Mariah Carey, both our travellers did question the reason for that at first. However once they walked away from the tourist-trap town centre, and headed for the coast towards the “Giardini d’Augusto”.
A
beautiful tranquil garden overlooking crystal clear seas below greeted them and made them instantly realise the attraction of the Martin suggested walking up to the North eastern point of the island where thirty minutes later they reached a natural arch in the rocks looking down to the sea, with mainland Italy as the back drop. Truly spectacular views all around them, Capri was beginning to offer some of the best scenery of their adventure so far. They headed back to the town for a coffee and a sandwich but when they saw the extortionate prices, they didn’t bother (£5 for a cappuccino). The old town centre did provide a few places of interest though the best way to see this island is to explore away from the centre.
Still with a few hours to go they headed down to the Marina Piccola. The intoxicating fragrance of flowers, delicate splashes of colour, and a peaceful charm only interrupted by the shrill of seagulls. At the small harbour, they were further astounded by a sea of pure blue washing up on the beach. A true blue lagoon provided them with utmost tranquillity. Hardly a soul around, high cliffs overshadowing their path,
a true paradise. Martin had been feeling a little unwell, and this place was lifting his spirits somewhat. In the summer this tranquillity must be lost with the hoards of visitors, but in mid- February, it was perfect, even the sun had come out to provide its approval. After some refreshments at far less extortionate prices, Martin had to visit the rest room. Half an hour later he re-emerged looking a little pale and clammy and preventing Maya from any further embarrassment or stares from the waiter who had wondered where Martin had got to.
They caught the bus back up to Capri town and walked down to the harbour as they had ample time left before the ferry would leave. Sitting in the harbour awaiting the ferry, they both agreed that Capri was not to be missed. From what they seen in just a few hours had revealed a truly stunning captivating island. The return ferry was far less choppy though Martin really did feel he was coming down with something. They returned to Chaplins to say farewell to Maria, and more pasta was consumed at the red lion before the final yet hardest climb back up the
hill, just wishing Anna Maria would pass in her little van and give them a lift to the top.
Eventually, truly exhausted they reached the top. Bags were packed and around 11.00pm, Anna-Maria very apologetically asked them if they wanted to join the family for breakfast in the morning, as her husband would take them to the station. There were no boundaries to her hospitality. After Naples, Sorrento had been an absolute joy and had suitably recharged the batteries for the long journey to Sicily. Bed time had come upon them as they looked forward to the next stage of their adventure. Highlight: Capri Accommodation: Excellent 55 euros per night
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