Amalfi Atmosphere and Valle delle Ferriere

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Geo: 40.6344, 14.6026

One of the surprising highlights of Amalfi was the Duomo (cathedral). The exterior, with its gold leaf decoration, caught the afternoon sun brilliantly. Inside, the 13th century Paradise Cloister had a Moorish feel with intertwined arches supported by 120 slim columns... very elegant combined with the Mediterranean garden in its centre.

I nearly didn't enter the Crypt, as my previous experiences with these have been austere and solemn spaces. This was quite different - this crypt is the real heart of the Amalfi Duomo, highly decorated and revered as it is where the relics of St. Andrew are kept. The marble columns and mosaic floor, the colorful frescoes and the bronze sculptures make for a really beautiful and special place.

The Amalfi locals were dressed in their very finest as we walked past the Cathedral on Sunday and we peeked in for a few minutes and were lucky to see that they were not just celebrating mass but the First Communion of about 20 children.

But we couldn't hang round long as our next walk beckoned. Today was Valle Della Ferriere, a higher route but along the same valley as Valle delle Mulini, with lush shaded wooded area and the historic ruins of iron mills.

On our way in and out of Amalfi we passed many lemon orchards - most of which still were covered in netting to protect the citrus trees from the winter frosts. Every bit of available space was used in some form of agriculture. Tiny terraces were planted out with so many types of produce; eggplant, beans, strawberries, cabbage, shallots, artichokes, cucumbers, and so many more.

Possibly the best part of today was watching two large cruise ships come into Amalfi and anchor offshore. Just the joy of knowing that as the ships disgorged its passengers for the day to descend on the small town to eat, drink and purchase unnecessary items, we were high up on the mountainside, splendidly isolated and enjoying nature.

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