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Matera
Looking across the canyon from the Sassi. Today is our last day in Matera. Our stay here has been everything we would have wanted. Our apartment is wonderful. When traveling through cities in Europe have you ever wondered what is behind that locked door in an apartment building. The exterior of our apartment looks like any other. Sometimes in need of fresh paint, shutters always closed to protect the inhabitants from the heat of the day or security, footpaths and roads in need of a fresh layer of tar seal. Behind our new door is a wonderful example of what can be done after a visit to Ikea. Our pensioner holiday pad is perfect for our needs. A great place to return to each night.
The plan today is to retrace our steps to the Duomo and start our walking tour through the Sassi from that point. We have been a little late starting today and already the heat is building. We notice there are more people around in the area we have chosen for today’s expedition. A hint of the importance and historic value this part of the Old Town has.
We have chosen an underground church as a place of great interest. When we
Matera
The Old Town above the canyon. front up to the ticket office we are surprised to be told that one of us is entitled to a discount. We confess that we are not EU Residents. “That doesn’t matter,” or something like that, so we purchase tickets for three underground churches.
Inside the first, Santa Maria de Idris, we view a church hewn from the tufa rock. Sculptures are carved out of the room’s walls, the remains of frescoes can be seen. No photos can be taken, a good thing too. The second church was quite elusive. We climbed steps, walked up and down alley ways, retraced our steps many times. Eventually there it was. The entry is like any other church until you get right inside. This church, Santa Lucia alle Malve, is much smaller and has a range of frescoes. One noticeable fact is the green growth on the lower walls, a sign of the amount of moisture in the rock.
We have lunch at a small cafe alongside a major thoroughfare into the Sassi. From our table we take note of the number of large groups visiting the Old Town. We feel like a living part of their tour as camera happy
Matera
Looking up at some of the Old Town. tourists photograph a large local bread on display beside us. There are many guides touting for business in the city above. Our lunch uses some of the very special bread baked in the area. We have heard that no one can bake this bread like the locals. It is supposed to last about two weeks. Our lunch won’t last that long.
So far it has been a great day but energy levels are low. Time to head back to the apartment. On the way we visit the The National Museum of Medieval and Modern Art in Basilicata. One interesting display is a range of photos of people taken before they were moved out of the Sassi to the New Town. A rather telling set of photographs of the people, their lives, and their way of life in the Sassi.
A mid afternoon nap is called for before heading off to the third underground church not far from our apartment. This one, San Pietro Barisano, is much bigger and has underground vaults. Most of what was in this church has been removed for safe keeping, or stolen. This church also has the green growth on the walls.
Tonight
Matera
Santa Lucia alle Malve we decide to have a meal out and then view the old city with its special lighting effects. What a great meal. The restaurant, Ciboom, has only been open for twenty days. The food was very tasty, the atmosphere and surroundings were innovative. The bill was far less than expected. A great value for money. The Old Town with its subtle lighting was worth the effort to make one last walk through the city.
Has this four day visit been worth it? Definitely. Could we have stayed longer. Definitely. There is more to see on this holiday and we have to move on. The car has been parked in a nearby street. Jane has done a fine job of looking after it and we are not expecting any nasty surprises when we wake it up tomorrow.
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