Nearing the End

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Last night on the way back to the hotel I stop by the grocery store and picked up a bottle of red wine to keep me company while I pack for my return trip home. Boo who. This trip has been far too short.

I decided to return to St. Anne church for Mass; Budapest, Batthyány tér 7, the pipe organ was playing it's deep rich tones and was accompanied by a choir with robust strong voices. I noticed a woman sitting at the end of the aisle; she has stark white hair pulled back rather severely, she's probably 90 and has her hands folded fervently in her lap. Her hands reflect hands that have worked soil, kneaded bread and wiped away many a tear. During the sermon the priest must of been relating a humorous story as other parishioners were smiling broadly and some even chuckled. This woman sat stoically. I imagine during her lifetime, with the oppression she has seen, her faith has remained her one constant source of hope. Her fervent reverence is a reflection of her deep faith. Humor has no place in church. She reminds me of my Grandmother, Mamie. She is the picture of the Hungarian matriarch.

I spy another woman, probably 70, wearing a raincoat complete with epaulets, glasses with a beaded keeper, and the smart black tam. I imagine her to be someone's Great Aunt Sylvia who loves to relate her stories of travel, adventure and clandestine lovers, past and present.

After church I indulge myself with a crepe and espresso from a small 24 hour crepe shop on the same square. I select chicken and broccoli crepe and it is delicious and filling. They offer sweet, savory and everything in between. The two girls behind the counter were tickled with the puppets I gave them and interacted with the other patrons using the smiling faces.

On the sidewalk outside the crepe shop I spot the older woman I had seen there earlier in the week, accompanied once again by her suitor. The courtship continues. She has her flowers again today and he is nonchalant yet very interested.

From here I head to the old Turkish baths, Kiraly Gyogyfurdo, approximately 3 blocks away, Sylvia had mentioned cupolas on the building, as did another native who I had met on the street. I did not spot the cupolas immediately as they are overgrown with trees from the park next-door. These baths are not grand like the Gellert baths, but the Turkish influence and the style are charming. The plumbing is all surface mounted on the walls and I doubt the health inspector has been by lately. As I approached the entrance I noticed a middle aged woman with a limp using crutches accompanied by a middle-aged man. After paying my admission I take the winding stairway up to the changing room. They have the same cabin set up from the previous day, these painted white and have a lattice woodwork resembling a garden trellis; I quickly change and proceed downstairs to the baths. There are six thermal pools plus a cold dip, two saunas; hot and hotter, and a steam room. For good measure they also have a modern Jacuzzi, looking oddly out of place even in it's own private room.

I enjoyed each of the baths in sequence, as well as the steam and sauna. I saw the disabled woman again, she was struggling with her shoes. I knelt down to help her, I told her I had owned several pair of the same slippers, and had called them "my princess shoes". She concurred with the description and told be she had purchased them in Eger. I acknowledge her remark, now knowing where or what eger was. I took a quick round of photos and as I was passing by her again, she reached out her hand in invitation. I sat with her and chatted. Her name is Frederica Roman and she is afflicted with multiple sclerosis and had found her most great relief at Eger, another Hungarian town and she encouraged me to visit there. We chatted for a while and then realizing I had to check out of my room, we hugged and said good bye.

After checking my bags with the hotel I was off for my final funicular ride of the trip. Budavári Sikló, was built in 1870 to connect the Danube bank and the Castle hill. This was the most beautiful funicular on this trip and I would never tire riding this charming mode of transportation. At the top of the railway there is a Hungarian Handicraft market; I had a little end of the trip shopping spree to gather up some gifts for those back home and then a tasty sandwich in the castle area; the highlights of my afternoon. Back at the hotel I bid farewell to the wonderful staff who were keen to provide directions and advice about my adventures to a place where I will surely return, Bodacious Budapest.

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Photos

Red Wine
Compares with Two Buck Chuck