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Published: June 23rd 2015
Kefalos Coast
From the passenger seat.Two days sitting by the pool reading and I was getting restless so we decided to do a day trip with a scooter and explore. Another warm day was ahead so the breeze on a scooter should be pleasant.
Tomas had a bike licence so we took out a 125cc for 25 Euro. The smaller engines were 20 and little scooters 15. This is what was suggested considering we wanted to cover some distance and climb hills with the weight of the two of us.
Our Dutch neighbours had mentioned that they had toured the Island with a quad bike the previous year so offered some suggestions of where to go. They circled locations on our crude map of the island which was the best I could find.
The scooter dealer that opened earliest at 8.30am and closed latest was the one we chose. He also had a bike Tomas liked the look of but just before signing the deal found that he didn't take credit card so we wandered around to try to find another. No luck with the others either so we changed more cash and went back to our first choice. Signing the papers was the
Paradise Beach
Before the crowds arrived easiest rental agreement ever. I was a little nervous as there was no legal stuff that is usually signed to protect either party.
The fuel warning light was flashing so first stop was the gas station 500m up the road and the dealer followed us there to pump the tires. On our way we conked out as the fuel tank was completely empty. He went back to his shop and put a litre in by siphon. The fuel station didn't take credit card either!
It was 9.30am before we got going and decided to head for Kefalos, the furthermost end of the Island, with the plan to work our way back. I thought this was sensible as it was more isolated on that side and I didn't want to risk running out of fuel which might have been more likely at the end of the day as we ran lower.
Setting off initiated a buzz of excitement as I was a little out of my comfort zone and as I've read- life begins out of your comfort zone. I hung on tight but after a few kilometres loosened my grip.
First stop was Paradise Beach and
at 10.30am we were the first there so took the opportunity to take a dip before the crowds arrived and have it to ourselves. The crowds seemed to appear only 30 seconds behind us.
This is one of the most beautiful beaches on the Island; crystal blue water, sheltered and isolated. Quick dip, photos, dry off, dress, shoes and helmet on and off to the next destination. It felt so free and easy although the boring side of me kept me quietly nervous as well.
Next stop Kefalos Beach. I was curious about Kefalos as it was an area that I had considered staying. The town of Kefalos and most of the accommodation were further up the hill and I saw many walking down to the beach which looked like hot, hard work to me. The environment was very stark and harshly bare. I prefer leafier surroundings but Tomas found it quite beautiful.
We then climbed up the furthermost elevations of the island for the biggest and best views possible but started having to negotiate unsealed roads that were in the process of being worked on. There appeared to be much new development on this end of
the island.
Then onto the elevated village of Kefalos for lunch and a look at some old ruins before backtracking along the main road to the ruins of an ancient castle and fortress.
The map was difficult to follow so stopped at a bakery for directions and a coffee for my driver. There a rear vision mirror on our bike fell on the ground but luckily didn't break. The people at the bakery were incredibly helpful in gluing and taping it back for us. My hair elastic made for a good security to wrap around the other mirror.
At this stage it was already 2pm. Where had time gone! It was free to enter the Castle of Antimachia ruins but a man in traditional ancient costume sits at the entrance and gives a grand performance upon arrival for whatever euro you want to donate. There was hardly anyone there which was amazing to me as the scale of the fortress was formidable, even among the ruins you couldn't help but be amazed at the scale of the engineering and effort.
Continuing from here we got a little geographically embarrassed trying to find our way back in the
direction of Kos Town. As it turned out, we were already on the main road to Kos but we went back to the roundabout at Antimachia and must have gone around it about 6 times before realizing that we needn't have gone back at all.
Next we continued along the main road and topped up with more fuel. Our neighbour had circled the village of Platani on my map. On reflection I think she meant the nearby location of Asklepeieon which is where there is an ancient healing temple.
This is what happens when you don't do your own research, get lazy and rely on others for suggestions (reader beware). Not knowing what we were heading for and not seeing any signs directing us anywhere we just enjoyed riding through the lovely little villages.
It was then that the ice cream we had so enjoyed in Kos Town on our last visit began calling our names loudly and we spontaneously decided to head in that direction.
Returning to the colourful buzz of Kos Town made both of us excited and finding ourselves suddenly confronted with the Special Pattisserie, when we really didn't know where we were going, made
us even happier. Parking right beside the shop on the pavement was much appreciated after remembering the sore feet we had felt last time we were here.
I had a tiramisu ice cream this time and Tomas stuck to the yogurts having a yogurt orange this time. Mine was great but following my research I have now decided that my personal preference is for the yogurt.
To give our stroll through town some purpose we decided to further research and scout out the three other Special Patisseries in town. This was to decide which was our favorite location for future reference.
At the next location Tomas surprised me by ordering the biggest and most decadent cream croissant with strawberries. The cakes here would even rival Melbourne's St Kilda cake shops but then I realize that they are all established by Greeks as well.
He, nor I, are not normally so indulgent but it is rare to be confronted with such amazing heavenly, mouthwatering, eye popping sweets. I must admit that this initially was one of the attractions to visiting Greece, from my point of view.
Enjoying being back in Kos and relaxing made us decide to forgo riding to
Therma where there were thermal springs by the sea warmed by underground thermal activity. This was justified by saying it was too hot to sit in hot springs and that we had been to Hot Water Beach in New Zealand which had the same phenomenon.
Our next destination was to watch the sunset from the mountain village of Zia. Following the coast for some way out of Kos, just to experience the ride, we then backtracked through picturesque, tree lined semi rural streets. On the way stopping at the German Lidle Supermarket for some groceries, having decided that we would have dinner in our apartment upon returning.
The road up to the mountain village was the most picturesque of the entire day. Wondering if we should have spent more time on these mountain roads but then how would we have fit everything in! It was now 7.45pm and the scooter was due back at 8.30pm.
Masses of tourist busses were just arriving in Zia and before long the road was crammed with vehicles. This must happen every night! The masses of people were hearded to the open air restaurant while we stood alone on an empty balcony watching
the sun go down.
Conscious of time we headed back down the hill, experiencing the bright red sky against the backdrop of Turkey's mountains from the seat of the scooter.
The scooter was returned at 8.30pm on the dot and the owner quickly looked over it and was happy. We didn't mention the mirror as we didn't want to get into a discussion about it with the language barrier. We were lucky it hadn't broken and he was lucky we managed to repair it. We imagine that the extra fuel left upon returning the scooter will be siphoned out so that the next user starts with another empty tank and returns it with a surplus. That's probably just a perk of the business.
Today resulted in a very satisfying and exciting day. My nerves can now rest that we are in one piece all and no claims need to be made to insurance. I will now be able to relax by the pool, write and read for the next few days before needing a buzz again.
Dinner was spinach pie and Greek salad on our balcony. Tomas finished with a shot of Ouzo which is amazingly cheaper
here than olive oil.
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Sue Harcombe
non-member comment
Intrepid explorers
Oh my goodness - it just gets better and better! What a fantastic experience. Can't wait for the next installment.