Crete 2018 Blog 4

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Reminder: the panoramic photos at the start of the blog change every 7/8 seconds and give a larger and clearer image than when viewed with the other photos. Also, there are more photos below the text if you want to skip the diary details; and if you double click on any of the photos you will get an enlarged, clearer image. You can return to the text anytime.

Tuesday 8th May. No more rain and the skies were clear so we decided to head back up the mountain to the Timios Stavros church: easier now we were familiar with the route. It turned out to be much easier than our first climb; presumably because the uncertainty had gone and we could pace ourselves. An enjoyable walk/climb in warm sunshine and with great views. Afterwards, feeling quite pleased with ourselves we headed off to Damnoni for a final lunch at Meogeios. But first we had time for another stroll over to Ammoudi Beach to see how the improvement in the weather had affected it. The nudist beach on the way to Ammoudi was well crowded unlike the previous day’s empty space. Back at Mesogios we had a final delicious lunch and then returned to Plakias.

Jane decided to relax on the beach while I wasn’t done walking and headed off to Plakias Harbour. Another enjoyable stroll in the sun and then back to the beach to find Jane. As she was happy to stay on in the sunshine so I continued to the end of the beach and on to a path leading out towards the eastern headland. I had walked this path on a previous visit to Plakias but had turned back because the path entered a tunnel and I didn’t have a torch. This time I used the flashlight on my phone to get through the 70 meter tunnel only to find another one opposite the exit. The second tunnel was only 20 meters long and ended in a vertical rock face with no way to continue: up, down or sideways. A mystery why the path and tunnels were built as they did not to lead anywhere; or indicate any kind of purpose for being built (mining?). Back to the beach to meet up with Jane: having done enough walking for the day – and feeling it too. Later on we drove up the mountain to Mirthios for a final dinner at the Plateia and then back to the apartment and our last night in Plakias.



Wednesday 9^th May: the move to Kissamos. There wasn’t a deadline for checkout as the hotel wasn’t full and they didn’t require our apartment for a new letting. We left at around 11am and headed to the north of the island via the mountain route we had been warned against taking when we stopped for lunch on our way to Plakias the previous week. This time we had plenty of time available and wanted to explore some more of Crete’s spectacular mountain scenery. Although the road very winding and steep the journey was definitely worth it. Monday’s rain had greened-up the countryside and it was beautiful up in the mountains. Descending to the main east-west highway on the northern coast we stopped for lunch at the same taverna where we stopped at on our first day in the hope of sampling some more of their excellent calamari. The daughter of the owner (and cook) arrived just after us and gave us a warm welcome: and their excellent calamari.

We arrived at our hotel in Kissamos just before 4 pm for another very warm welcome from the owner; and also from their receptionist who remembered us from a local restaurant where she used to work that was a favourite of our’s. We had dinner next door at Stelios & Katina (another favourite of our’s) and where we had another warm welcome. So nice to be back.

Thursday 10^th May. As the weather in Kissamos was a bit windy and hazy we headed off through the mountains to the south coast town of Paleochora: which was a 46km journey unlike the much longer drive from Plakias. Also, we’ve travelled this road twice before and so were confident about the route (heading south from Kissamos our satnav directs us off the excellent main road even though the main road is only marginally – one or two kms – longer, and even though the satnav is programmed to select the fastest route). We didn’t stop at Paleochora but continued a few more kms to Grameno Beach which is well sheltered and turned out to be very quiet too. The beachside taverna, the Houmas Taverna, was also very quiet and served us a nice lunch. Afterwards we sat on the beach in the sun until it was time to head back over the mountains to Kissmaos. A good day.

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Photos

Timios Stavros revisited
On the way back up to the church

Timios Stavros revisited
Look carefully at the lower centre of the photo and one of the white dots is our car

When the going gets tough.....
....the tough do it all again

Walk 2
View of the mountain from Ammoudi Beach

"Been there - done that"
Morgan the Mountaineer and the mountain

The After Climb Party
Mesogeios Taverna Damnoni Beach

Walk 3 Plakias Harbour and Bay
View east from the harbour wall

Walk 3 Plakias Harbour and Bay
The remainder of the view around the bay

Walk 4
Eastern end of Plakias Bay from the path to nowhere

Walk 4
The path to nowhere

Walk 4 eastern end of Plakias Bay
The vertical rock face is studded with climbing aids so that climbers/nutters can hook themselves on

Mountain scenery
On the road from Plakias to the north coast

Houmas Taverna at Grameno Beach
Idyllic spot: sheltered and very pretty

Local speciality: giant white beans at Houmas Taverna
Butter beans with spinach; onions, celery, feta cheese and cooked in a tomato sauce - fabulous. Another dish on the menu was "Grandmother's Bougi"; unfortunately not available as it seemed quite exciting.