Akrotiri: A Walk on the Wild Side

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Today was going to be hot. Not necessarily because the forecast had indicated a temperature over 30 nor because of the high predicted humidity. Rather, today's walk was going to be wild and lonely, through dramatic hills and gorges near the north-west coast of the Akrotiri peninsula, just east of Chania. Much of the walk was going to be hard and stony underfoot with very little shade. This was why it would be hot. The weatherman may have said 30, but that's in the shade. I was expecting to add another 10 degrees to that figure.

My taxi arrived on time and soon I was heading towards the airport and up into the remoter hills beyond. It seems amazing that, this close to Chania, many visitors don't head out in this direction.

Having paid my fare, I watched the taxi depart and savoured the stillness of the early morning air. Birds sang as the sun began to creep above the mountains, light shining on the red rocks giving a warm glow to the monastic surroundings.

I quickly walked up the hill, reaching the brow where a modern war memorial to local villagers stands proudly looking out to sea, the stark beauty of the scenery holding secrets spanning over 2000 years.

Beginning my descent, I stopped at a little cave in which a church had been built, a result of the local villagers being saved from the ravages of a bear. Descending still farther, I arrived at the derelict Katholiko Monastery, Crete's answer to Petra!

Scrambling down to the gorge below and made my up the gorge, every now and again, climbing up to bypass large rocks blocking the route. Although the gorge was rough underfoot, it had the advantage of shady trees; valuable on a hot day as this.

Finally, I left the gorge and reached a flatter plateau. Not wanting to stop, I continued down another valley and shortly later, spotting a cairn, veered off the goat path. Climbing up through the scrubby vegetation, I made my way to the col above me, being rewarded by sea views both ahead and behind.

The rest of the walk was easy, though in the open, taking me through a derelict village with its wells still open (and deep!). The goat path eventually took me into another hidden valley, becoming a gorge before suddenly spitting me out on to the coastal plain.

An utterly incredible walk with stupendous views - but quiet and hidden.

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