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Published: June 14th 2017
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Aufwiedersehen Eisenach
You can see the Wartburg in the background. We left Eisenach after three enjoyable days. It is really impossible to capture the beauty of the area with pictures. However, the terrain would remind you of western Wisconsin (which may be why so many German immigrants settled there). Rolling hills, fertile farm land and lots of forest. We tried to stay on local roads as we traveled around and were truly rewarded with the scenery.
We stopped at Weimar on our way to Eisenach. As I may have mentioned, this was home to one of the may princely courts and it was Bach's first job outside the church. By all accounts, he enjoyed his time there and had ample time and occasion for composition. He started as Court Organist and performed in the palace church (the Himmelkirke or Heaven's Church) which was attended only by the royal family. However, he also served as a court musician (he was also an excellent violinist in addition to being a keyboard virtuoso). He was apparently well regarded by the prince since he was ultimately promoted to and newly created position of "Concert Master" ranking third behind the director of music (Capellmeister) and his assistant. However, by the time he left court records
indicate that he was payed twice as much as the Capellmeister!
As is the case in many of the locations where Bach worked, the original ducal palace including the Himmelkirke was destroyed by fire. What exists today was rebuilt in the 19th century in the same location. There is a plaque which marks the location of Bach's house. Weimar has a population of over 64,000 people and again, is only about 35 miles from Eisenach.
Kothen is a beautiful town which we visited on a Sunday so it was especially quiet. Much of the original palace still exists and there was a lot of renovation going on.
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