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Saturday 30 May:
Today Rainer was our tour guide, showing us around Darmstadt. We travelled to the city centre on foot, walking through some nice gardens on the way. The Hoffmann home is on the eastern edge of the city and has some nice green space. I was quite excited to see a fox cross the path in front of us. Zachary saw it also, but Heather’s attention had been diverted elsewhere. After walking through these gardens we ended up at the “Five Finger Tower”, so called because that it was it looks like. We went up to the top (7
th) floor where very nice views were to be had. It was a clear day so we could see Frankfurt clearly also.
From there we had a look at the impressive Russian church but a service was taking place so I didn’t go in. After a spot of brunch at a rather average café a short walk further took us into the city centre. Darmstadt has a population of only 150,000 but is known as a scientific city – it has a high proportion of students and the largest employer is the pharmaceutical giant Merck
(whom both Rainer and Barbara work for). The city centre is quite compact and typical of other German cities in that it has a main square (Luisenplatz in this case) which has a statue of a prominent figure. Other streets radiate out from here. We also managed to buy a soccer ball for Zachary.
Rainer then directed us to a good playground where Zachary had an enjoyable play. There was sand and water – the only two ingredients needed for a successful playtime really! Rainer went and got the car and then we drove to the Waldspirale. This is a residence designed by Friedrich Hundertwasser. NZers will be familiar with him as he became an NZer late in life and his last ever design was the famous toilets in Kawakawa. It was cool to have this connection between NZ and Darmstadt and the building itself was very funky!
Rainer also took us to the Merck complex and showed us various areas from the outside (Zachary had fallen asleep) and gave us information about the company. When we go back in August we may get a chance to see inside a bit.
After that it was back to the house for a bbq dinner and we were optimistic of getting Zachary to bed about 8. Of course, he was contrary and refused to fall asleep until 9:30. Barbara got home about 10 and we sat up and had chocolate and wine and a good chat before retiring just after midnight.
Sunday 31 May:
Got up just after 7 and Heather did the packing thing. After breakfast we headed for
Würzburg which is where Lara is living and studying. We were a bit delayed getting where we wanted due to roads being cordoned off by a heavy police presence. Apparently there was an important football match on and the opposition supporters are known to be troublemakers. However, we arrived at just after 12 and it was great to finally see her again. She has a small apartment on the 4
th (top) floor of building in the city which she shares. Her sister Anja was there also, as was Lara’s beau Florian, so we got the chance to spend time with the whole family.
We headed out for lunch to a place which specialises in
local food. This was good although I wasn’t feeling quite 100% and didn’t enjoy the meal as much as I otherwise would have. Zachary contented himself with fried potatoes. From there we went for a walk to the Marienburg Fortress, crossing the river Main (which feeds into the Rhine) on the way. This was very nice. It was a bit different from the other castles we have been to and provided superb views in all directions. The fortress apparently was built by the ruler of the time to protect himself against the citizens of the town who were cross about the way he spent their taxes! It was really cool for us to see how Zachary took to Lara and Florian and they were walking with him and swinging him. In the gardens Lara and Zachary were dancing and entertaining the locals and tourists.
From there it was back to the apartment for refreshments and Anja headed back home to Heidelberg. We then headed back to the bridge across the Main where they have a wine bar. We enjoyed some local wine and then back for some dinner. We are getting used to the main meal being
in the middle of the day. Dinner was bread and a variety of meats and cheeses before Barbara, Rainer, Florian, and Lara headed back to Florian’s apartment. We have Lara’s place to ourselves as her flatmate is away. Zachary asleep just after 10.
Tomorrow, we will leave Würzburg just after 10 and head to Nürnberg (Nuremberg) with Rainer and Barbara. We have a couple of things on the agenda and Rainer is an ex-resident who knows the city well so he will take us around the city before dropping us at our hotel after dinner and heading back to Darmstadt.
Monday 1 June:
A good night’s sleep and everyone came round for breakfast at 8:30. Skyped with Ma and it was great for her and Lara to speak. She also met Barbara (she spoke to Rainer a couple of days ago) and Florian.
After good-byes to Lara we headed for Nürnberg. First stop was the old Nazi rally grounds. The original buildings designed by Albert Speer still exist and there is a good museum there. It details the formation, rise, and fall of the Nazi party. There are
original photos and documents and film footage. The audio guide was very good and for €5 it was good value. I didn’t really learn anything new as I am well educated in this part of history, although much of the stuff about the actual rallies was new. Still, it was worthwhile and if you are not so familiar with the history, an excellent resource.
While Barbara and I were here, Rainer and Zachary had gone to the lake which is part of the grounds and had a drink and cakes. There was a small playground there too and they went for a walk and saw the structures from the outside. We all went to the café for our main meal of the day and a 20 month old girl took quite a shine to Zachary and his new soccer ball and they played together on the playground. Afterwards I asked Zachary if he had fun playing with his new friend. I got a big cheeky smile as he told me “I got a girlfriend!” He is not planning on marrying her though.
We then drove to the hotel and checked into our room (which
is rather small but it is only one night so we’ll cope) and then we all went into the city. Much of the medieval fortifications in Nürnberg still exists and it is all free and easy to explore. It poured with rain when we arrived but thoughtfully stopped o we could walk around. After “admiring” a rather bizarre modern-art statue of a rabbit we got dropped off at the Hauptbahnhof. We said our good-byes and thanks to Rainer and Barbara who have been so kind to us. We will see them again in 10 weeks. Grabbed some dinner and snacks for the morning before underground train and tram back to hotel. Tomorrow we leave Nürnberg at 1235 so before that we want to go to the Deutsche Bahn museum, which is very near the station. Next stop Dresden!
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