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Today Drea and I visited the spa resort town of Baden Baden, near the Schwartzwald (Black Forest). We indulged ourselves in the full treatment at the famous Friedrichsbad, also known as the Roman-Irish Baths. Let me just say there's nothing legal you can do for 29€ that feels so good, and possibly nothing illegal either.

The spa treatment consists of 16 steps, all helpfully outlined on large numbered signs in German, French and English. Squeamish Americans beware: all 16 are performed completely naked (two days a week, the mixed-gender pools are closed off for women only, but this was not one of those days). Step 1 is a soapy shower, followed by steps 2 and 3, increasingly extremely hot dry sauna rooms. I'm guessing this is to get rid of impurities. After a quick rinse (step 4), it is off to the optional but entirely worth it step 5, a soapy scrubdown and massage by a kindly German Frau. I know my back hasn't been this clean since I went to the spa in Portland (way too long ago). Another quick rinse (step 6), then a deliciously fragrant hot steamy sauna (step 7) and yet another quick rinse (step 8). On to the world of mixed-gender bathing in three different pools of warm mineral water from Baden Baden's natural thermal springs (step 9, step 10 includes jacuzzi jets, and step 11 is a free swim in a huge round paradise under a stained-glass dome). One guess what step 12 is. Next, step 13 is a very, very quick jump into the cold immersion pool... 18°C!! And yet, with temperatures outside approaching 38°C (no kidding), this was my favorite part and I went back two more times for some serious chilling out. At this point, we had reached the end, but still had more than an hour left of the time we'd paid for, so we basically got the run of all the saunas and pools to do whatever we liked... float, swim, sweat, shower, or any combination thereof. Finally (after one last dip in step 13), step 14 is a comfy wrap in a huge, warm linen towel. At step 15, one slathers oneself with mineral-enriched body lotion in one's choice of fragrance (sadly, the kindly German Frauen did not do this for me), and the experience finishes off with half an hour or more in the step 16 "quiet room" (wrapped in towels, meditating) or reading room (on a beach lounge with German magazines).

All I can say is, find the money, come and do this.

As if all this weren't good enough, in the evening we were joined by Drea's sister, brother-in-law and niece for a drive half an hour across the border into France for dinner featuring Alsatian flammkuchen. At first I was disappointed to learn that this was not actually cake... but I came quickly around when I learned that it is a special pizza served only in the Alsace region of France. Wafer-thin cracker crust, rich cream sauce, bacon, onions, mushrooms, goat cheese... heavenly. For dessert, cream sauce, cinnamon, apples and flambé!

I discovered that even after a month of immersion in German, I can still think (slightly) faster in French (but still not enough to be terribly useful).

Finally, a special note just for Cameron: we drove along the actual route that the Tour de France will use when it passes through Karlsruhe next week! It isn't quite as exciting as being here for the race, I suppose.

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