Ravioli of the Alps

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Friday, June 19th

At the beginning of this journey I wondered how we would handle the longer than normal vacation. Now that we are almost half way done I am surprised at some of the things I have discovered. It seems that 2 weeks is the right amount of time to unwind and finally relax. Being gone for 2 weeks is like getting a deep tissue massage instead of a back rub. You begin to remember what life was like before constant access to email, the internet, the news, fighting traffic and paying bills. As corny as it sounds, it is nice to have the time to stop and simply hear the birds sing. The difference in countries and cultures makes you think differently about yourself and your values and you come away with a new appreciation for life. That's the great thing about travel.

Ravioli of the Alps

And so it was on Friday, our last day in the French Alps, and we decided to do nothing but relax and savor La Vie de Les Alpes or the life of the Alps. Saturday would be a big travel day and we needed all of our reserves to make it through another day of planes, trains and automobiles. Since our hosts Pierre and Christine had cooked all week, we took them out to a nice dinner in one of the nearby mountain towns. With Italy is so close this part of France, its cuisine has influenced some of the traditional Alpine dishes here in France. For example, we have all eaten ravioli or gnocchi at one time or another. But in Les Alpes, ravioli becomes ravioles with a wonderful cream sauce made from local cheese and gnocchi becomes super gnocchi covered in 7 cheeses. You won't find much red sauce here, but put cheese on anything and I am happy person. Our dinner came with a grand view of the mountain complete with sheep and gentle sounds of cow bells in the distance.

Observation: Eating in France

In France there are cafes, brasseries and restaurants. The first two categories are great places for an espresso, or lunch and the tables turn over quickly. But restaurants are a different animal. When eating at real restaurant, be prepared for a slow meal with multiple courses, the appetizer, the plat du jour, salad, cheese, dessert, and finally coffee. The real intent of dinner is to socialize with your friends or family and the food just compliments the conversation. A good dinner is eaten late in the evening, and can easily last 3 hours or more, depending on how sleepy you get toward the end. Do-you-want-some-water ? At home when you ask for water with your meal, the waiter just assumes you are cheap and bring you a glass with ice water. In France, you have to be more specific. Do you want bottled water like Evian? Do you want it still or with gas ? Asking for regular water is tricky, screw it up and you just spent 5 euros on a bottle of water versus free for the regular water. Here is a tip, you can always ask for table water or water in a carafe. Most places keep the carafes stashed in their fridge to keep cool.

Observation: Clothes for a Month

Whether we are gone for a week or 4 weeks, we always pack the same amount of luggage. Everyone gets their own 22" roll behind suitcase and a backpack. If you can't carry it yourself, roll it behind you, or fit it on the airplane overhead bin without checking the bag then you can't bring it. The most you can hope to pack into a single suitcase and leave room for souvenirs is about one week's worth of clothes.

Rick Steves recommends washing your stinkables in the bathroom sink of your hotel room but I can't bring myself down to that level. Instead, it's easy enough to buy a small package of detergent at your local supermarket, find the local laundromat, pop a few coins in and go. Staying with friends makes it even easier because they almost always have a washing machine. Bring clothes that are easy to mix and match, that don't require ironing, and are easy to layer in case the temperatures swing hot or cold. A pair of shorts can double as pajamas in a pinch too, just don't let the same people see you later in the day or they might say, "Hey, that guy is walking around in his pajamas !!".

Worst case scenario buy some cheap clothes locally. The Made in China label has finally penetrated France so buying clothes is no more expensive than it is at home. We had to buy shorts for the girls since it was so hot and they were around 10 euros.

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