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Published: August 28th 2011
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Into France
View just as we emerged through the tunnel from Spain - Hello France - on to Marseille! Marseille, Avignon & Aix-en-Provence, France – 15-22 August
We left Spain behind and entered southern France heading toward the port city of Marseille. The train ride was comfy, as we hoped and expected. This time the close to 3 hour ride took us through scenery that transitioned from the rocky Spanish lowlands through the small rise of of the Albanise mountains. The train stayed close to the coast although we only caught a glimpse of water every once in a while due to the many tunnels along the way. Eventually we did cross the boarder into France and on to Marseille. The train terminated at Gare de St. Charles where we hopped a Metro (connected to the train station underground like many we encountered on this trip) Line 1 to our stop at Vieux-Port which let us out right on the Marseille Marina. It was quite a view on the port with all the sailing vessles and large to huge yachts docked there. Deb's Bberry took us to number 23 Rue de la Loge where we buzzed in and got access to the place. We had been waiting to see if this place lived up to the pictures we had
Marseille Apartment
Living room and 6th floor view of the marina below seen on-line (VRBO – Vacation Rental By Owner) because we paid more than we usually liked due to those pictures. We knew we were taking a risk but if it paid off it would be great. As soon as we walked into the 6th floor apartment and entered the living room we knew we made a great decision. The view of the port, marina and Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde up on the hill just had us staring the whole stay. The pictures will give you an idea of the place and the rest of this great apartment. The owners had everything laid out with great detail and clarity. Great, 5gb WiFi, A/C that was integrated and quiet and they threw in fruit, red and white wine and other assorted foods that made our need to shop less urgent for the day. We spent that day just soaking it in after a brief run to a local market for other minimal essentials that were not already provided.
For us Marseille was not the end in itself this trip. We would take it in but also intended to use it as a jumping off point for other destinations close
Kitchen
Deb making glasse - can't get enough. enough that would allow us to plan day trips. Our plan was to see Marseille and mix in a couple of trips to Avignon and Aix-en-Provence both within 30 minutes by train and each with a different point of interest we both considered worth a look.
The sun promised to shine brightly for our entire stay. We set out to visit the Calanques (pronounced Ka-lonks) which are small beaches and inlets that occupy the ricky coastline north and south of the port city. On that 2.5 hours boat tour we saw beautiful sail boats, yachts big and bigger, locals diving off rocky shores seculded restaurants and mountain views that were just spectacular. The water was aquamarine/tourquise and clear as glass close to shore and a deep blue father out where our boat mainly stayed. We could not find a bike tour here so we opted for the Petit Train tour that left continuously from Vieux-Port just up the street from our place. That trip took us passed some old established neighborhoods and up to Basiligue Notre Dame de la Garde overlooking the harbor. Lots of cool vistas from that trip. Marseille is known as the home of Bouillabaisse which
Unbelievable Terrace
I spent a lot of time out there - killed some wine and cigars too. is a hearty fish and seafood stew. This dish began as a fishermans concoction that made use of boney fish caught in nets that was hard to sell at markets (Scorpionfish, Sea Robin are two that are traditionally included). Oddly enough, now it is one of the most expensive dishes on menus in Marseille. Even more strange, we didn't try it while there. We decided on other things which didn't dissapoint. I loved the sardines there, grilled were my favorites. We ate well, don't get me wrong. Our most memorable meal was at Miramar right on the port. Deb had the 9gr lobster (that was the small one) cooked with a taragon sauce that was out of this world. I had the giant prawns, grilled, that were also great.
The only small drawback to life on the marina was that the noise was non-stop. It's an active place and busy all the time. That coupled with this being European vacation time and you get a mix of cars, scooters, motorcycles, chit-chat, music from roving Morrocan musicians (annoying horns and drums that seem to play the same beat all the time – sorry Morroco) and general street noise that continued
Bobolivo
First real meal in Marseille - Deb had Canard and I had Jamon and Gnocci salad - very good. well into the early morning. Inside, the apartment was quiet enough though but time on the large terrace got noisy in the evenings. Nothing a good cuban or dominican cigar and a bottle of St. Emilion could not negate – so you can guess what I did almost evey night – lol.
Avignon was chosen for a day trip mostly so we could visit the Palais Des Papes and that is what we saw. Nine Popes of the Catholic Church resided there in this evolving palace starting in 1309 while that denomination was experiencing a shism between Avignon and Rome (obviously Rome won). Although interesting the place is largely devoid of all but the structure. The audio guide was replete with tracks that said "a painting used to hang here" or this wall used to be an arched doorway" or "imagine if you will...". It was interesting but not spectacular in any way. Deb and I had a plesant time roming the streets and visiting shops but Avignon will not be on our return list. It is only a 15 min train ride from Marseille so you make the call.
Aix-En-Provance was also very close and was a
Miramar view
Shot at the start of our voyage to the Calanques - we would eat there later. nicer experience, in our opinion. This town's big attraction is that the likes of authors like Hemingway and artists like Paul Cezanne, P.A. Renoir and others resided here to do many of their famous landscapes. Cezanne's studio is located in the northern suburbs (not any of his art is there so we passed). The "old" town is defined as being north of the Cours Mirabeau along which most folks stroll to visit shopes and restaurants. It is a short street whose main part starts at the Rotonde Fountain and ends just beyond a sculpture of the Bon Rio Rene (Good King Rene - 14th century). Our main attractions here were the Cathedral of the Holy Saviour (St. Sauveur) in the northern part of the old district, shoping, and eating at Le Deux Garcon along Mirabeau. We achieved all that and also saw Super 8 in VO at the Renoir movie theater. So all in all Aix-en-Provence was a hit for us. A wonderful day trip and so "Aix" is highly recommended at least by us.
We spent that last day in Marseille walking what is known as the Pharo district where we visited the Cathedral de la St. Marie
Mansion on Port Entrance
Built by Napolion Bonapart Majeure. On the exterior the church showed signs of wear, lack of care and upkeep. Maybe it's a symptom of being on the salt water? Inside was another story. A very beautiful structure with a very beautiful sculpture depicting Jesus and his mother just after his walk to Calvery (Golgatha). It has a pieta "feel" and is full of emotion. We looked but could not find reference to the artist but we are determined to find out. We thought it was a significant piece.
We left Marseille with our suitcases a bit fuller than when we arrived (shopping in Aix-en-Provence had proven successful) and many a beautiful sight in memories and pictures. I hope you enjoy the pictures as well. So it was off to Gare de St. Charles, on to Lyon and the last leg of this vacation. See you there!
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Sonia von der Lippe
non-member comment
Relaxing
Ok. Now, I'm just getting jealous! ;-)