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Published: June 26th 2015
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The old part of Aix (pronounced like the letter X) is all class: its leafy boulevards and public squares are lined with 17th- and 18th-century mansions, punctuated by gurgling moss-covered fountains.
Aix marks the spot where Roman forces enslaved the inhabitants of the Ligurian Celtic stronghold of Entremont. In 123 BC the military camp was named Aquae Sextiae (Waters of Sextius) for the thermal springs that still flow today. In the 12th century the counts of Provence proclaimed Aix their capital, which it remained until the Revolution when it was replaced by Marseille. The city became a centre of culture under arts patron King René (1409–80): painter Paul Cézanne and novelist Émile Zola are its most famous sons.
Our guide Victorine picked us up this morning at 9:00 for the half hour ride to Aix-en-Provence then gave us a walking tour of the highlights of the old section. Some really interesting history and beautiful old mansions lining the streets. Chris and I also paid a visit to Paul Cezanne's studio. We had seen a movie about him, including scenes of his studio (or a copy of it) so it was really interesting to see it first-hand. Still-life items that
he actually used in many paintings were still there in his studio. And paths through the property led to small clearings where I believe some of his other paintings were done, as well as many of the views around where we are staying in Marseille. I've included copies of three of these paintings in this blog with my photos.
We enjoyed wandering around the narrow streets then stopped for lunch at one of the hundreds of outdoor cafes before all meeting up again at the car for our ride to Cassis.
The popular tourist town of Cassis is about an hour drive east of Marseille and is famous for its cliffs and the sheltered inlets called calanques. Calangues are kind of like small fjords, usually with a beach at the end of it. Some of them can be reached through a rugged hike but they are mostly only accessible by sea. These remote beaches are popular with nudists as well as boaters anchoring within the shelter of these small inlets.
Chris, Dave and Sylvia took a tourist boat out for a one hour tour of three Calanques so those photos here are from Sylvia. I decided to
skip my inevitable sea-sickness and instead wandered around the town, watched the bare boobs on the beach (Hey! You HAVE to look. 😊 ), and also the boat jousting competition going on in the harbour.
The Chateau de Cassis castle overlooks Cassis. It has a rich history that began in the 5th Century, during Roman times, where an early simple stone and wood watch tower was erected over the ancient city of "Carsicis Portus". During the VIII century, the first fortified walls rise around the tower, the remains of which are today's "Saracen" tower.
During the XIII Century the existing castle walls take shape during the "Castum Carcisis" occupancy by the powerful Baux family in 1223. In the XV Century there are as many as 50 homes and 250 inhabitants inside the castle walls. In 1426 and again in 1473, the fort passes by succession to Louis II, the Count of Provence and the Bishop of Marseille due to the enforcement of an old noble law. The year 1524 marks a period of terror when the "Imperial" soldiers of Charles Quint, the supreme commander of Bourbon, attack the castle killing men, raping women, plundering houses and destroying ramparts.
At the end of the XVI Century, with order returned, the last of the inhabitants abandon the castle for the village of Cassis. Only a handful of holy people and soldiers remain behind to occupy the castle. At the end of the XVII Century, the Count of Grignan, a provincial governor, acquires new canons and strengthens the castle's defenses. The artillery is later destroyed during an assault of English soldiers on April 17, 1813. From this time forward the castle's defensive role is reduced. The property is officially ceded by land administrators to a tobacco grower from Saint-Cyr in the Var region, who purchases the castle in 1896. Since this initial purchase, the Château de Cassis has remained a private property.
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