Day Five - Remembering June 6, 1944 on Christmas 2012

Somebody Must Be Here

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Either this was the strangest used car lot in France or there were people around somewhere, but we never saw or heard a thing. I can't find much information about this abbey other than it was first built in the 12th Century by the Premonstratensians, whoever they might be, and it fell into disrepair up until WWII when the Germans used it as a lager, or staging area for a Panzer division.

I Learned Something from All Those EF Trips

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I do recognize a Gothic church when I see one. We tried to go in but it was locked. Very unusual for a European church. There were a few other buildings with more modern doors which indicated the place is used for some purpose, but they too were locked.

The Rain is Gone

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The skies had cleared again as we walked through the grounds searching for a toilet. A couple of times we thought we had found an outhouse, but they turned-out to be toolsheds. Travelling on Christmas Day can be dangerous for one's bladder.

A Nice Place for Reflection

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In the very back of the abbey complex we thought we'd surely find a WC for the monks. Nothing. Yet the well kept gardens indicated someone was still tending these gardens. I guess the monks had to hold it until vespers back in the abbey itself.

Yes Oui Caen

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When we left the abbey we headed on toward Caen. It was a rather modern and pretty large city which meant we got a little confused driving around. We followed the "chateau" signs which so far in our trip always led to something interesting. It was no different in Caen. Perched up above the town stood a huge medieval castle.

A Rather Formidable Fortress

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According to our green Michelin guide the castle was built by William the Conqueror and subsequently enlarged and reinforced over many more centuries. It served as a military barracks in the 18th Century then virtually destroyed in the Battle for Caen in 1944. After the war it was restored to its medieval splendor.

Free Parking

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Any other time I'm sure we'd have to park blocks away from the castle and have to pay. Even though we found a space on the street that required buying a parking sticker for the car window, we didn't pay since the other cars in front of ours hadn't. I wasn't sure I wanted to hike up the hill to the castle because it had to be closed. We'd probably get our best pictures from a distance out here by the street.

The Matilda Tower

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The path up toward the castle wasn't at all strenuous so we kept walking up the hill. At least from the top of the hill I thought we might get some nice pictures of the city below and a different angle on the castle itself.

Doorway to Eternity?

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I can't find any information explaining the purpose of this door to nowhere. That first step is a doozy.

Castle Entrance

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A very classic castle gatehouse. Plenty of murderholes above the entrance and firing slits facing in all directions. Although this bridge is a contemporary addition, I can easily imagine a wooden plank bridge reaching out across from the gatehouse to the barbican we were approaching.

The Outer Barbican Might Be Open!

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By now the hill we were climbing had risen to the same height as the castle entrance. The castle was surrounded by a natural waterless moat with that bridge being the only means of getting inside. The barbican guarding the bridge also has plenty of loopholes for firing crossbows at the uncoming enemy.

It Almost Looks Like We Could Get in Here

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It was hard to tell for sure but from a distance I thought I could see an open gate. We might not get into the castle but at least we could take a closer look at this outer fortification.

Maybe There's a Potty in Here

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While we stumble around in the outerworks trying to find a public bathroom, a couple walking their dig passed by and headed across the moat bridge and into the castle. We followed.

Caen's Castle Moat

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After crossing the bridge instead of walking into a castle building as I imagined, we entered a huge courtyard. It was an immense expanse as big as a couple of football fields. Not at all what I expected. But as expected, there were no toilets to be found. Things were getting uncomfortable. Seeing this big empty moat on the inside of the castle grounds started to give me ideas.

The Coast Was Not Clear

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It turned-out that all of us were in a bit of distress at this point so I decided not to do anything rash that might result in me being arrested and sent to a prison in French Guiana. We were unable to get any closer to these remains of the original much smaller castle.

Thanks Again Google Earth

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In this aerial shot of Caen Castle the old original Norman castle can be seen at the top of the picture. The barbican and bridge we crossed is just to the right.

The View Down Into Downtown Caen

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We walked around on the inside of the castle walls taking a counter-clockwise route. At one point we hiked-up yet another steep hill inside the courtyard that seemed to be quite popular with all the folks out for a late afternoon stroll. Once we got to the top we faced a 6 and a half foot wall none of us could see over. Holding my camera over my head I got this picture of the land below.

Wheel of Fortune

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As we continued going counter-clockwise we now started heading east into the widest open expanse of the grounds. The building to the right is some sort of art museum which fortunately was closed. In the center is what we assumed was the winch for hauling water from a well. Pretty elaborate system. On the far right they were excavating around an old wall. Next time we visit maybe they will have restored another part of the original castle.

The Exchequer

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When we saw this building in the NW corner of the castle we assumed it was a church. I tried the door figuring a church would surely be open on Christmas Day, but the door was locked. I have since learned the building had a far different purpose. It was constructed by William the Conqueror's son, Henry Beauclerc. On Christmas 1182 (exactly 831 years before), a royal court celebration for Christmas in the Exchequer of Caen Castle brought together Henry II and his sons, Richard the Lionheart and John Lackland, receiving more than a thousand knights before Richard left to join the Crusades. Amazingly, when the city of Caen was nearly completed leveled during the fight for the city in 1944, the Exchequer escaped intact.

Look Over There Frenchie

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My new friend wasn't sure where the parish church was so I pointed it out to him.