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Published: December 4th 2012
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We are living in the Languedoc region in the Southeastern part of France. Ths area is the largest wine-producing region in the world! Not just France but the world!
So it seems like we should talk about the things we have learned and consumed related to wine. We started our trip up north in Poutou Charentes, where St Emilion is located. It was in October and we were lucky enough to be there during 'Vendange" or harvest. Vines everywhere and lots of commercial production. But we visited a small local producer, Domaine Lascaux. We were greeted by Christian who was a wealth of knowledge about French wines and their production.
We learned that there are strict regulations in France for sulfites in red wine but none for white wine. Consequently, the white wine can be chock full of sulfites here. (read headaches). I always thought in the US it was the other way around.
This vineyard takes pride in growing their grapes naturally without irrigation or chemicals. They also hand pick the grapes and load them in plastic cartons carried from the field to the processor on the backs of strong young men. The wine is placed
within the stone walls of their vault and sealed with wooden doors. The heat is increased to encourage fermentation and the wine is left alone for about 4 months. Then it is stored in the cooler caves to age.
There are three types of wine producers in the Languedoc region. The winemakers that grow their own grapes and bottle it on the premises are called "recoltrants". A "negotiant" buys other people's wine and mixes them for sale. Finally, "Co-Ops" make wine by pooling the grapes of all the growers in the area. Negotiant and Co-op wines are sold in the supermarkets. They are mass produced and therefore usually less expensive. There are usually Co-Op markets in the small villages and we have one in St Chinian called the Maison De Vin. They also sell wine in refillable plastic jugs called "Pays du Vin". It is about 1.6Euros per liter. It is made by the Co-Op and it's what many of the villagers buy for daily wine.
Tasting rooms are free here, but sometimes you need to call for a reservation. Given our fluency in French, that can be a stumbling block. But these are working wineries, with the
grower and his family out in the fields. So they have to stop the work to give you a taste. While there is no fee, there is some expectation that you will purchase a bottle or two. A case is 6 bottles, not 12. We bought two bottles at a Christmas market and the winemaker threw in a bottle of rose so the box would be weighted evenly. What a deal!
One of the great things about Languedoc is the inexpensive, high quality wine here. We have started to think twice about paying more than 6 euros for a bottle. I think we are in for a shock when we get back to the Pacific Northwest.
In restaurants, wine is sold in 12 cl, 35cl and 75cl increments equal to a glass, half bottle and bottle in the US. They also have a 'pichet", a little pitcher, which is about 3 glasses.
We started as the harvest began up north. Now, down south, the harvest is done and the grapes are resting in their barrels. We have driven through many fields with the growers busily pruning the vines for the winter. The hills and vineyards have turned
amazing shades of red, gold and orange. What a great time to be in France!
So the next time we pop the cork on another delicious "Vin de Rouge", we will think of you~
A Bientot
Sandy and Jerry
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