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It's hard to type when you can't stop pinching yourself. This blog is long overdue as I have now been settled in what is to be my home for the next while for two weeks now. I am feeling immensely lucky as each perfect day blends into the next. I am also feeling a bit sheepish, assuming that the audience for this blog is still ensconced in the never-ending cold of a Canadian "winter" that refuses to let go and a spring that seems reluctant to turn warm.
Getting into a rhythm has been interesting as a variety of guests has come and gone. My quiet time is early morning when the house has been waking up gently. I paddle downstairs, originally in slippers to combat the cold tiles and now in bare feet as the south of France turns warm. What was initially a small annoyance - the crowing of the rooster next door - has become a welcome confirmation of morning. Where he was once jarring, I find myself awake in the slightly lightening sky waiting for him. He seems to be slower at getting up than am I. From wanting to turn him into a lovely dinner,
we now co-exist beautifully. Although, I suspect he has no idea about our coexistance and continues to do what he was born to do.
The other sounds of the neighbourhood are becoming part of the landscape. The frogs serenade by evening and the construction workers next door by day (but, perhaps in true French fashion, only part of the day and certainly not every day). There is a goat somewhere and, we suspect, a peacock. The house is 1.2 kms from the historic center of Sommieres but the rural feel is here.
The quiet neighbours are the small lizards that sun themselves on the deck and the occasional scorpion, also small.
France is all about festivals and spectacles. We had our first big deal event in Sommieres last weekend - the Medieval Fair. It is an annual two day event over the Easter weekend. A parade each day, full costumes by all, merchants at stands selling wooden swords and shields for the kids and historic trinkets and foods, tours of the tower, ghouls dressed to scare wandering the streets, musical performances - it was quite the extravaganza. We spent the afternoon happily people watching and marvelling at
the level of participation in the community. There is a flower fair today, a dog fair tomorrow, a circus for two days after that and on it goes. If one widens the geographic circle just a bit, my suspicion is that you could spend every day of your life at some event of a cultural nature. There is a richness to life here.
Markets are also a big part of life in the south. As each town has its own established market day, vendors move daily. You can get everything at a market - from meats, cheeses and vegetables to clothing, fabrics and even beds. Locals and tourists mingle happily picking up fresh food. There is a great spirit at these markets. There is also a cautionary tale. Train stations blare announcements, guide books warn: Beware of pickpockets, they are everwhere. I had my own firsthand experience yesterday...I think! As I shopped and put things into my carry sack, I stuffed some cash in my pocket. Then, I stopped at a tapenade booth where there were cubes of bread and open jars with spoons in them to try the product. As I lifted one hand to pick up a
bread cube and the other a spoon, there seemed to be a number of people around me and I intuited a feeling of movement toward my pocket by the man behind me. Instinctively, I shot my hand back and grabbed the man by his wrist. Money can be replaced, but my car key and Blackberry couldn't be. I felt like an idiot, being a good Canadian. Surely I must be wrong. He was doubtless just moving in for the next bread cube. But, the more I think about it, the more I think my first instincts were correct. He didn't seem shocked enough by my behavior to be innocent. And, if he was, well, he will never see me again. Unless he is watching for the dumb broad who didn't secure her cash well enough. Lesson learned at no cost!
We have also had occasion to test the medical system in France and it was excellent. Sandi was struggling and finally agreed to let Lynne and me take her to get medical help. We ended up in a medical clinic attached to a hospital in Lunel. While it was the better part of a day by the time all
of the tests were processed, the care couldn't have been better or more comprehensive. One doctor chose to stay beyond the end of her shift as she spoke English and wanted to translate so the next doctor would be aware of Sandi's issue. She was given bloood tests, an x-ray and, when a chest infection was feared, a CT Scan. All for about $300. It was indeed pneumonia so we were very relieved that the system worked so well and offered the quick results.
Yesterday, friends Lynne and Pat and I dropped off Bev and Doug Burr at the Montpelllier train station. After a lovely afternoon in Montpellier, we then headed off to Palavas les Flots to dip our toes in the Med. This is a lovely beach town of canals leading to the sea. The water was cold but that didn't stop many from frolicking and swimming. We rolled up our trousers, took off our shoes and walked through the sand to the edges of the water - the equivalent of middle-aged frolicking. With a balmy 26 degree day and bright sunshine, it was a perfect moment. There is a converted water tower in town with a rotating
restaurant on one level and a smart bar on another. We headed up for a coffee (3.50 Euro) while Pat had a beer (2.50 Euros) - note to self: Beer and Wine are cheaper than coffee! The ride up the elevator was 2 Euros and worth every penny. The views from there were 360 degrees and stunning.
And so, another sunny day is here and with it the plans to go to a market in Aigues-Mortes, wallet firmly tucked away, and to the salt flats where we will have a tour of the Baleine salt factory. Maybe an afternoon by the pool or a trip into Nimes to see the arena. But now, one last sip of coffee and then the day can really begin.
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Leah Bradford ( Lynne's sister - in - law)
non-member comment
Super blog!
Hi Nancy, I really enjoy reading your blog. What a great holiday for you and your friends. Thanks for sharing. Leah and Ray