Our March on Paris

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Ten hours! Ten hours of the soundest, hardest sleep we've ever had. I tried to open my eyes on Tuesday morning. I felt run over.
"What time is it?"
"8 o'clock?! Really?!"
"Holy shit!"
And, with that, day 2 in Paris officially began!

We were thankful for a later start. Normally, the Whitsons are butt-crack-of-dawn people; however, that travel day and full day of sightseeing did us in! We didn't even go out to dinner. It was Marks & Spencer pre-made sammies for us and we quickly passed out!

Day two started with a lovely breakfast including yogurt, croissants, blueberry tart, bacon, eggs, potatoes, cereals, cheeses and meats! We ate til we were full and joined the group in the lobby for our journey through the city.

We began just a short distance from the hotel. A block up is the Odeon theater and on the other side is Luxembourg Gardens. Our favorite part of London was the gardens and it seems like a pretty good bet that Parisian gardens will capture our hearts too.

The changing of the seasons means "old" flower beds are ripped up and new flowers are planted. Mums are the flower of fall and one of our favorites so we don't mind at all. Quite a few summer flowers remain and, while not at their peak, they are certainly still showstoppers!

We wander the gardens as Michael tells us about Louis XIII and his mother, Marie di Medici. We watch children playing on the playground, see the marionette theater, tennis courts, the pond where children can rent boats to push across the water and talk about numerous statues placed throughout.

One of the most interesting bits, for me, was these cages that they push all the fallen leaves into. There are many cages around the enormous park. Then the leaves remain to be composted! Seriously, isn't that a terrific idea? Fresh, free compost for all those lovely flower beds.

In one side, out the other we go toward the Boulevard Raspail market. I've been waiting to see a marke but there's only ONE thing I've wanted to see more! *Screeching tires* A BOULANGERIE or PATISSERIE!!!!!

Well, Boulangerie La Parisianne it is! Michael points to the window which proudly displays the emblem for Best baguette in Paris 2016! That's all the endorsement I need! Hell, let's face it, I'd walk into any old bread shop. Carbs and I go way back but Michael wants my Parisian experience to be top notch so with his blessing, I run in. No need to ask me twice if I want something! If I weren't heading out and about for the day, I'd probably want one of everything. I settle for an apple tart and a brioche sucre. I'm not sure I've ever had a softer piece of bread. Heaven! I give a piece to Mom and she swoons as she looks at it like, "where have you been all my life?!"

We eat our way down a side street until we reach the Boulevard Raspail. There, literally on the boulevard, is a little market. Why go to the grocery when the vendors bring the ingrediants to you?! Fruits and veggies in one stall, meats and game in the next. Scarves, artwork, jewelry, olives, figs, rain coats, cashmere, spices, fish and flowers filled the stalls!

Now, a very serious subject. I am eating my way through Paris! It's a good thing we walk so much each day. It feels like no time has passed before it's time for the next meal. I'm going to give Michael all the credit. He keeps things light, keeps us engaged in the subject matter and covers just the correct amount of info with useless tidbits of knowledge that I adore. Did YOU know that Louis XIV was a ballet dancer? In little high heels?! Brilliant stuff!

Anyway, back to food! Lunch is at the café in the gardens of the Rodín museum! Surrounded by priceless sculptures! (Ok, I can't actually SEE any of them from my table but YOU don't know that!) Plat du jour is a lovely veal stew that looks devine and the pistachio mille feuille would add 30 lbs so I settle for a sandwich, chocolate mousse and a bottle of water. Mom had a wrap and caramel cream. (We get different desserts so we can have BOTH! Ah, the joys of a travel partner!)

I wasn't very excited about Rodín. I mean, really, besides the Thinker, name me a piece of his work. Next time, I'll learn to keep my opinions to myself. Ha! No, I won't! But I did learn a few things, like I love art in a garden. I love sculpture that isn't crazy abstract nonsense. I loved watching people try to act nonchalant (another use of French. God, they have great words) as they get close to our group so they can hear Michael talk about Rodín's works and personal life. Who doesn't like the lowdown on someone's personal life?

The museum includes a manor house as well and as we wander through the lower level, I'm enthralled by the woodwork and plasterwork. Michael pulls me back when he has something he knows will interest me but when we head upstairs, I am sculptured out. The sunshine of a beautiful Paris fall day and The Thinker (he's out in the garden) are calling my name. Just like my days in college, I can only absorb so much information before I need a diversion and the sunshine and roses are just the remedy I require.

I find our tour leaders, Steve and Linda, out on a bench by The Thinker and I stand in the sunshine. After a selfie with Mom, the rest of the group joins us and Michael and I spend a few moments discussing and smelling the roses.

We make our way to Les Invalides, the military complex that is the burial place of Napoleon. It also continues to be an active military hospital and retirement home. The security to enter is even tighter than the museums. Armed soldiers with flack jackets inspect belongings before clearing us to enter.

Once through, we make our way to the first stop, the church known as the Dôme les Invalides. It is quiet. It is nearly empty. But it is grand and the first thing I notice is the banners hanging down both sides of the ceiling from back to front. Michael tells us that they are banners from conquered contingents. Impressive. They didn't call him Emperor Napoleon for nothing!

The tomb is located on the other side, opposite the sanctuary and I'm amazed by the proportions of the tomb. When you walk in, you are on the level above his tomb. You look down to see a massive, ornate marble sarcophagus. It looks like the Jolly Green Giant must be buried in it. It is surrounded by marble pillars with statues representing various key battles. The painting of the golden dome above the tomb is stunningly beautiful. The tributes to the people of France and soldiers are heartfelt and heartwrenching. A gorgeous place to honor the greatest war hero this country has ever known.

As we leave, Les Invalides, I start to get excited. It's time for the Arc de Triomphe! I won't go on and on about how much I love the Tour de France. I'll just say that this is one of the places in Paris, I've looked forward to.....not because of its military meaning but because I've watched the Tour finish up each year on the Champs Elysees for what seems like forever.

I haven't taken the time to talk about Paris traffic yet. It gives me anxiety. I'm not sure how people survive. These people live on the edge every day. They. Are. Crazy.

Why do I talk about the traffic? Beacuse the Arc de Triomphe is located in the center of a roundabout where TWELVE streets come together! It's nuts. It is a disaster waiting to happen! It's miraculous that I have yet to see a single mishap. I could sit and watch for hours! The suspense of impending doom is palpable! You are sure, at any given moment, someone is about to die. It is the train wreck you are willing to watch happen because you are positive it will!

Thankfully, there is an underground pedestrian walkway from the sidewalk to the Arc. We are told to watch our belongings yet again. I hang onto my purse (which I NEVER carry) with a death grip. Good luck getting my bus pass and museum card, asshole. I feel like Chuck Norris, ready to defend 20€, a copy of my passport and reading magnifiers. Fortunately, no one tries any funny business.

Ok, again, the Arc is a monument to commemorate battle victories. For me, it means the Tour de France and a bird's eye view of Paris! We climb 400 stairs (or so we're told) up a circular staircase. Up. Up. Up. I'm sweating and stop for a few very brief seconds on my way to the top. There are other foreign visitors. Not pooping out is a matter of national pride! USA! USA! USA! Slow and steady.

As we reached the top, the breeze was a welcome relief. The view was fantastic and I even got a few moments of free wifi! (It's the little things that make us happy!) We gazed out at this amazing city, took the obligatory selfies and pointed out now familiar buildings and landmarks. What a sight!

We made our way back down, held tightly to our possessions and found ourselves on the Champs Elysees. Way more Americanized than I imagined, it was cheaper and less exciting than I had hoped. Example: Ferraris sit at a street corner with #Driveme written on the doors. Yep, for 99€ you can drive a Ferrari in city traffic that barely goes 35mph, if you're lucky, AND everyone will know it's not your car!

As we catch the bus back to the Odeon neighborhood, we realize we are wiped out. There is no way we'll last through a dinner out so we grab food at the Monoprix (the grocery) and head to the hotel. We are exhausted but thoroughly amazed by another magical day in Paris!

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