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Published: July 27th 2008
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The French Countryside
On Tuesday morning (8 July) we packed our bags and headed to the train station. We boarded the train in Paris and headed to Rennes which would be our first transfer to get to Quimperle. When we reserved our tickets in Paris, we were of the impression that we had confirmed seats for the length of the trip. Unknown to us at the time, we did not have seats when we boarded the train in Rennes. We were both slightly pissed that the young lady in Paris did not explain that the 1st class section was overbooked for this leg. We were told by 3 different employees of the rail system what to do. The canned answer was to sit in one of the drop down seats between the cars. When we boarded there were four seats and 3 people already waiting for them. I was getting a little more pissed. I opted to sit on the floor of the train until a seat opened. Lynne grabbed the first open seat and I jumped in one as soon as it came open. We chalked this up to lessons learned on rail travel. As it turns out, we
John, Lynne and Janet
At a local cafe in La Faouet could have gotten a reserved seat on a later train, but was never given this option. I’ll chalk this one up to a slight communication gap with the young lady who booked our reservation.
Before I get into the rest of this story, let me explain about our rail pass. Before leaving the States, we purchased a Eurail pass which entitles us to unlimited First Class rail travel for two months in 17 countries. The only thing we pay are reservation fees. Some trains require reservations while other local trains do not. Local trains in these countries are at no additional cost.
OK, on with the story. We are met at the train station by Lynne’s cousin Frank and his lovely wife Janet. Oh and how could I forget Jett, their dog. As we would soon learn, Jett is part of the family and goes everywhere with them, and I do mean everywhere. Dogs go anywhere in many parts of Europe. It is not uncommon to see dogs in shopping centers, hotels, grocery stores, restaurants and cafés.
On the way the Frank and Janet’s house in the country, we stopped in La Faouet and had a cup of
coffee at the local brassiere (coffee shop/ bakery/pub) and sat outside enjoying the good company of Frank and Janet. For those of you who have never spent any time in Europe, you should know that outside dining is quite common in the summer months.
Lynne was absolutely delighted to be reunited with her cousin. Frank and Lynne shared memories of growing up and about family. Frank has done an extensive amount of ancestry research on their family. Lynne was amazed with all of the historical information Frank was able to track down about their family. Frank gave Lynne all of the supporting documents to include many census documents.
After our recent visit to Scotland to track down some of my family heritage I was really intrigued with the information Frank shared with us. It sparked an interest and Frank shared some tips on how I could get data on my own family. Frank got us on to one of the ancestry websites and I was able to do some quick research of my own. I was shocked that other people had been tracking some of the family on my father’s side and found some data dating back to the 1750’s.
This was cool stuff. When Lynne and I return from this journey, I plan to dedicate some time to do my own research and build my own family tree.
Frank lives a short distance from the village of La Faouet in the French countryside. Except for the architecture, I would have guess we were somewhere in the southern United States. The country side is dotted with small farms to include stone farm houses, stone barns and a variety of crops. This part of France has a very hospitable feel just like you would find in the southern United States. The area has a rich history and there are multiple ancient relics to explore.
Frank and Janet explored all of the gems of their community with us. La Faouet is home to a 15th century market hall. This structure is massive and most impressive. It has a covered roof, but is really an open air type structure. The market hall is used regularly for festivals, markets and other activities. It is the centerpiece of this charming little community.
The immediate area surrounding La Faouet is rich with historical churches and chapels. Frank and Janet took us out to check out
some of these spectacular structures. On many of the old cross roads you can find calvaries. This old calvaries were sculptures depicting a variety of crucifixion scenes—some more elaborate than others. These calvaries marked the route to the various churches that people would visit during their pilgrimage.
Other distinctive sights included some of the old community water fountains. These were typically used for baptism, but also provided the local village a common source of fresh water. Community bread ovens were also common. These bread ovens were made of rock and formed in a dome shape with a small opening. In days gone by, villagers would light a fire in the oven once a week and the entire community would bake their bread for the week.
One thing that was refreshing to see in these small villages was the strong sense of community. Again, you see the example off the butcher, baker and candlestick maker. The small local farmers thrive by selling locally. The people of the French countryside are warm and inviting and proud of their heritage.
Janet is very active in the community and is involved in many of the local cultural activities. One of her activities
included Breton dancing. She went to her dancing practice in the market hall and we tagged along to check it out. Breton dancing involves a lot of footwork and people typically form a circle and grip hands as they dance around in a circle. Lynne and I both gave it a try and had a blast trying to keep up with the locals. They practice each week and in September perform the dances during a huge festival in the market hall.
Festivals are huge in Brittany. Janet took us to a local village where they were having a mock Breton wedding. It was quiet the sight to see. There were local bands featuring pipes and drums. The wedding procession included people dressed in the traditional Breton clothing which was rather ornate.
Frank and I hit it off from the start and we had some really remarkable conversations. It seemed that for the whole week we stayed with them, we were never at a loss for words. Janet is a remarkable cook and spoiled us with some exceptional home cooking.
Frank and Janet offered to take us up to Normandy so we took them up on the offer and
made the road trip to the Normandy area of France.
Lynne and I would like to graciously thank Frank and Janet for their hospitality and opening their hearts and home up to us during our stay with them. Frank and Janet, you are two spectacular people—thank you for allowing us to enjoy some great time with you.
Look for our next update from Normandy.
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Frank
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The pleasure was all ours
Lynne and John have given a fair view of why we have been so contented to live in deepest Brittany for the past five years. Best of all, while we can still manage it in our leisurely stride, we have had many friends and family come visit. Lynne and John were perhaps the easiest guests to accommodate and we had many happy hours discovering so much common ground to talk about. Averyone knows John and I don't normally talk a lot (do we Lynne???) but there was never a dull moment. Without any doubt, the pleasure of their company was a treat for us. As with you all, we are following their progress touring the world with interest. Alas, for me now that has to be by proxy since I have no intention of going very far from my "back forty" for more than a car can drive me to... and in no circumstances having to wait for an air plane flight... just call me an old wrinklie now set in my ways. Thanks for acknowledging my birthday. Jet is 10 years old today so he and I are the same age for the next two days... based on doggie age being equivalent to 7 of our years. Well, I have to save it is good to almost reach 21+ years of age at last (plus in this instance means half a century!) and I plan being here a few more happy years. Best of wishes and much love to all.