Brittany , France - Aug / Sept 2023

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Tuesday 29^th August 2023/ Wednesday 30^thAugust 2023

We caught the Pont Aven from Plymouth at 8.00pm on Tuesday 29^th August for the overnight crossing to Roscoff. We didn’t bother with a cabin as the ship was docking at 6.30am (5.30am UK time!!) so sleep time was going to be very short anyway!! Watched a fantastic sunset over Plymouth as we left, saw the Harvest Moon come up, went duty free shopping and then watched the Taylor Swift tribute show. Gin and tonic-ed up I dossed on the floor ( I could have had a couchette!!) about 11.00pm and after the baby had gone to sleep, we both managed about 4hrs sleep, before all the lights were turned on at 5.30am and we all duly trooped back to our cars ready for disembarkation at 6.30am!!

So there we were, trekking around Roscoff, watching the sunrise and the market setting up (it was due to open at 8.00am) Stopped in a café along the front before visiting the market and then just drove a little way to Carantec, where we were hoping to see the Chateau du Taureau in the Bay of Morlais. Thought we had found it and had a pleasant wander along the boardwalk and up the coastal path for views – and then decided that there wasn’t enough left of that ruin to charge people 19 Euros!! Back to a café where we had spotted Moules & Frites in cream!! We then drove and had a walk to another view point where we saw the Chateau de Taureau at low tide ( And Chris had a chat to a woman about crevettes that she had been catching with her net) !! I’m not sure they were able to gets boats there in low tide as there was no-one at the castle. We then tried to find the causeway to Isle Callot (failed dismally!!) so drove onto St Pol de Leon where the only place we found to park was in a disabled car park!! Had a quick peer at the Cathedral then drove out to L’ilot Sainte-Ann for views of St Pol de Leon.

Had a wander around - Chris climbed to the top of the rock – I didn’t!! Had an ice-cream and took in more of the views, listened to the fighter jets (The Mirage) before driving back to find our Air BnB. It was rural to say the least, and the sat nav took us on some very small roads before (after asking someone!!) we found it!! Up the stairs and into a very crowded studio flat. Stuff everywhere and that was before we brought our stuff in!! Had a 15 min walk to the local supermarket as it was such nice weather.

Thursday 31^st August 2023

Decided today that we would go to Brignogan Plage, which is somewhere where Chris spent 6 weeks a year when he was about 13-15 years on a sort of French exchange. He can’t quite remember but I’m sure it’s something to do with his grandmother being French!! Anyway, it was only about 45 minutes away so despite it being cloudy we set off about 11.00am. Went along the D10 most of the way. And of course by the time we got there, it was lunchtime!! The tide was completely out so before we ate we had a wander on the soon to be, sea bed, where Chris looked for Crevettes that he used to catch there over 60 years ago !!

Wandered back to the restaurant on the front, where we had the set menu of three courses!! And quite delicious it was too!! Chris tried oysters for the first time (I had ½ of one which wasn’t too bad!! Better than the last ones I had, but still salty and slimy!! As it was now 2.00pm we decided to just potter about and then watch the tide come in at Brignogan. Drove to the Menhir ( a phallic shaped rock!!) and then out to the lighthouse and beaches! Then want back to a Chapel amongst the rocks. Apparently, St Pol crossed the Channel in the 6^th Century from Cornwall with a huge stone (it could have been the boat ballast) Men tried to drag it to the beach but the rope kept breaking, so they thought it was an omen and built the chapel there, on the site of previous chapels, about 200 yards from the beach!

Drove back to Brignogan, had a cup of tea and watched the tide quickly come in!! Fortunately the sun was out by now and It was quite amazing to see the landscape change before your eyes, from a rocky, sandy terrain to a turquoise blue sea! Had a wander along the beach as we couldn’t drive it, as many of the large private houses have direct access to the beach from their back gardens. Back to the flat about 6.00pm where it started raining! It was only a small shower but more rain is predicted for tonight!

Friday 1^st September

After the heavy rain last night we woke up to bright sunshine so went back to our original plan of visiting the Ile de Batz, only by the time we left the flat it was cloudy!!

Caught the ferry from Roscoff for the short half hour crossing and walked up to the lighthouse that Chris climbed!! (I didn’t’) Carried on walking to see the rest of the island and apart from stopping for tea and Far Breton Tiedi (Cake!!) we walked to the other end to see the Chapelle de Sainte-Annes. This was an ancient ruined chapelle that was built in the 10thC, replacing a monastery that had been built in the 6thC. (That is if I understood the translation correctly!!) Seeing as we had also reached the Jardin Delaselle, we thought we would have a look at that too!! Duly paid our 6 Euros each and were treated to a beautiful Botanical Garden with its streams , steps, little paths and views!! It was built by Georges Delaselle between 1897 – 1918 but fell into disrepair and neglect and was abandoned, until its restoration in 1987 by a Voluntary team.

Walked back to the ferry and caught the 5.00pm back to Roscoff where we had planned to eat! We were a bit early (French restaurants here do not seem to open until 6.30pm!!) so after having a drink, overlooking the harbour, to pass the time, ate in Les Arcades overlooking the sea!



Saturday 2^nd September 2023

Somedays work out really great and you feel like you have had a really good day – and somedays do not work out as well!! Today was one of the not so good days!!

Awoke to brilliant sunshine so decided we would drive to Brest! Drive there took under an hour, found the tourist office with relative ease and also somewhere to park, not to far away!! We decided to move the car to the free car park below the Cours Dajot and then climbed up to view the outside of the Castle, before walking along the Cours Dajot, the numerous gardens and the American Monument, built to replace the one destroyed in WW1. (We followed the walking tour the Tourist Info had given us!!) Walked past there office again and then got the tram two stops to Station Chateau, that was right near the Jean Moulin cablecar across the river. Took the cable car which went right up ( literally!!) over the river Penfeld and then thought we would have something to eat in the huge hall there! Ended up with a cheeseburger and chips! Not my favourite!! After lunch we walked down the steps to Rue St Malo – the only medieval street that wasn’t bombed during WW1. Chris assured me that it was going to be buzzing with tourist shops etc – it wasn’t!!!

We then continued on the Tourist Information walk and tried to find Tour Tanguy!! Failed and decided by now we had enough of trying to sightsee in a town where there was very little, and gave up!! As we were going back to the car we came across Tour Tanguy (14thC) that was part of the fortifications of the Castle. Also saw a few statues – a bronze woman pushing a man off a bridge (or maybe she was trying to save him!) and a silver tree with holes in it, that was supposed to attract birds!!

Anyway, then drove back to Roscoff where we had an ice-cream and sat in the sun before buying a picnic for this evening on the beach (assuming there is going to be another sunset!!)



Sunday 3^rd September 2023

Headed out of Roscoff (past the field full of pumkins!) to the coast road which led to Morlaix. It was a foggy old day, with the promise of sunshine later and a high of 24C but even though the tide was in, the views weren’t too good because of the brouillard. Got to Morlaix and looked at the harbour and took photos of a cormorant who had just decided to dry his wings for us!!

Then we walked up ( and down!) a total of 234 steps to reach the walkway of the viaduct (1/2 way up because at the top is a train iine!!) a first for both of us! Duly admired the views of the old houses and took the same way down!! The viaduct is 292 metres long and 58 metres high and was built in two years by 2000 workers between 1861 – 1863.

Went up the river on the other side and saw a creperie/brasserie in Plouezoc’h so decided to stop there for lunch. Unfortunately, moules were ’off’ as well as the ‘Plat du Jour’ so we each had a galette!! After lunch went to Barnenez to visit the tumulus (only we didn’t as it was a lovely sunny day now!!)and drove out to the end of the peninsula, where we walked down to the beach via an old, stony walkway. Sat there in the sun for an hour and watched all these people with their rakes and baskets collecting cockles. (We think!!) Loads of people and couples just kept appearing and a few men with sticks and waders on as well!! Saw the Castel de Taureau from the other side – it was built in 1542 to protect Morlaix from the threat of the English!! Chris walked out to the oyster beds- I sat and people watched!!

Went back up to Carantec where we drove to the end to see if it was viable to drive to Ile Callot!! It wasn’t!! So after getting an ice crem we drove to Sainte Anne causeway at St Pol de Leon with the intention of watching the tide come in!! Unfortunately the fog was quite thick there ( dare I say atmospheric!!) so back to Roscoff it was to sit on our local beach again! It was a bit windy and foggy to start but then the wind dropped and the sun came out to make a lovely evening!!



Monday 4^th September 2023

Our last day!! After packing up the flat and receiving a large string bag of onions from the owner ( Roscoff is famous for onions that are slightly pinkish in colour and everyone seems to grow them!!) we drove round to the Pointe of Roscoff and had a walk to the beach! The tide was in, it was a beautifully sunny day and the Pointe overlooked the Ile de Batz!

Then drove past the field full of pumpkins to St Pol de Leon and then down to the peninular of Sainte Anne where we had beautiful views, with the tide in!! Loads of people swimming and exercising!! After shopping and having our last Moules de Frites it was time to queue up for the boat which left about 3.00pm! Got back home about 11.00pm. 530 miles ( 266 in UK, 264 in France)

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