A city steeped in history

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4 June:
FIRST FULL DAY in Tallinn, my mother's hometown. I buy a book of bus tickets at the local supermarket, then pile onto one of the trolley buses going the 3 km into "Old Town." And I do take my verbs seriously -- in spite of the busy car traffic (I have already seen one thoroughfare with six lanes each way!) the buses and trams are packed, and not just during rush hour but at 11 am and 9 pm!

When I immigrated to Canada 41 years ago, my arrival in Montreal happened to coincide with Expo 67. This time I arrive in town during another big party. It's Tallinn Old Town Days this week. Outdoors concerts everywhere -- children's, folk dance/music, military and rock bands, not to speak of theatre, ballet, opera... Hey, and coincidently, Bob Dylan was playing in town last night, too.

This town had its beginnings in the 12th century, and was occupied and fortified by Danes, Germans, Swedes, Poles and Russians over the centuries. The narrow, crooked cobblestone streets, medieval merchant houses, churches, and a largely intact city wall with 26 (!) remaining fortification towers exude living history! This was perhaps the wealthiest medieval city of northern Europe thanks to its central location between east and west during the days of the Hanseatic League, a powerful merchant guild. During Soviet occupation (1945-1991) intentions had been to demolish 80 percent of the old buildings and replace them with office towers; fortunately, this harebrained master plan was never realized, and more enlightened minds prevailed -- so much so that the government of the day actually began restoring 400 historical buildings. Now the city has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site, and it will hold the title of Cultural Capital of Europe in 2011.

After a busy day trotting around, getting my bearings, and jostling tourists, I have dinner at Bakuu Restoran (which I interprete as Bakery Restaurant, but which turns out to be an ethnic Azerbaijani place). Why do I keep choosing former Soviet taxi drivers and republics? Somebody trying to tell me something? Some form of penance?

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Photos

Pikk Street
A long and winding road.

Roasted almonds
medieval style.

Merchant houses
now serve as restaurants and street-side cafes.

Viru Värav
This gate in the old town's east wall is guarded by two towers on Viru Street.

Blossoms galore
Sellers range from these shops along Viru Street offering an abundance of colours to little old ladies standing at street corners with bunches of lily-of-the-valley held in their fists. And people buy them!

City gate
Heavy iron-studded wooden doors close this connecting passage between the alleys Pikk Jalg and Lühike Jalg (Long Leg and Short Leg).

Comments

[Angelina]

Beautiful Tallinn
I don't know if it is my heritage connection or fatigue, but the photos and words you have of Tallinn bring tears to my eyes and makes me want to see it in person.