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Published: August 31st 2022
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Adored by countless Danes this small village, with a population of approximately 8,200, located at the very northern tip where the Baltic Sea meets the North Sea, Skagen (pronounced “skayen”) attracts locals and tourists alike with its rich art heritage, fresh seafood, and fantastic photo opportunities. During the 19
thcentury artists flocked here, claiming the radiant light’s impact on the landscape was the only place they could express their creative talent. They are now known as the Skagen Painters. These days tourists arrive in droves (often on cruise ships), to walk the long sandy windswept beaches, and stroll the narrow pathways of a village dating back hundreds of years. Although the town gets packed in summer months, it thankfully retains its charm. This is especially true in Skagen’s older neighborhoods, where distinctive yellow houses (painted in “Skagen Yellow”) topped with bright, red-tiled roofs and surrounded by white-picket fences, make for a picture-postcard vision.
A Fun Fact: first mentioned as far back as the 1st century AD by Pliny the Elder, when the Roman Empire traded with tribes from Jutland, he wrote “the promontory of the Cimbri running far out into the seas, makes a peninsula which is called Tastris”. This is the only time the name Tastris is mentioned but Skagen itself, first documented as Skaffuen in 1284, simply means a narrow, high point of land.
For those only interested in the watches, the brand “Skagen, Denmark” is world-renown and was designed by Danes Henrik and Charlotte Jorst. They have combined Nordic minimalism and high quality in their watch designs. They were inspired by Skagen’s beautiful natural surroundings and the long, beautiful beaches and of course, that very special light.
The Port of Skagen is the largest fishing port in Denmark, measured in the amount and by the value of fish landed and after the capital city of Copenhagen, it’s the second largest tourist destination in the country, with an annual arrival of about 2 million tourists. I wonder how many of those disembark from cruise ships. When cruise ships are docked here, the village supplies a free shuttle bus between the pier and the central section of town, or for the more energetic folks, it’s a short 15-minute hike.
An Interesting Fact: Up until 1907, Skagen didn’t even have a harbor and the boats had to be pulled up onto the beach, for loading and unloading. Despite its size, Skagen has much to offer any visitor with three major points of interest that everyone wants to see. Approximately 2.5 miles north of the town center is
Grenen, a slowly lengthening sandbar spit, consisting of sand and gravel, which is growing at the rate of 26.25’ each year. This creeping spit was formed about 10,000 years ago at the end of the last ice age. Strong currents and shallow waters around Grenen caused many shipwrecks in years gone by and continue to do so from time to time. Here the Baltic greets the North Sea, and you can literally stand with one foot in each body of water – great photo opportunity. For a really unique experience here, take the Sandormen or Sandworm, a tractor-pulled bus which takes visitors along the last stretch to the very tip of Grenen. You will find these buses in the parking lot.
Located 3 miles from town is
The Buried Church, aka St. Laurence, the seafarer’s guardian saint, is believed to have been built in the latter part of the 14
th century and at that time, it was the largest church in the region. The first stories of sand migration
on the west coast dates to this same time, when villages were laid to waste. For the next few hundred years, sands shifted enough to gather in large dunes and by the beginning of the 18
th century, the church was partially buried. Each time a service was planned, the entrance had to be dug clear by the congregation – if that doesn’t decrease attendance in church, I don’t know what does! Finally, it was abandoned and demolished, leaving only the tower we see today, which served as a navigation beacon. Materials from the demolition were used to build in the town, making the church an everlasting part.
The Grey Tower, aka Skagen Lighthouse is an unpainted round brick tower with a lantern and gallery, reaching a height of 151’ and, by climbing its 210 steps, you’re guaranteed a spectacular view of the top of Denmark. Located about 3 miles from the town center it is an easy walk to reach, but many visitors prefer pre-arranged tours to visit it, as taxis are pretty much non-existent here. For the very few which are available, drivers speak limited English and only accept Danish Krona or credit cards as payment. Probably the
best way to explore is via bicycle – not only do you enjoy the incredible scenery from the road, but think of the fresh air, sunlight, and cardiovascular benefits to be had by pedaling. There are four major bike rental companies in Skagen, all offering reasonable bike rentals by the hour. Employees will ensure you have the right bike for your height and size before you’re off on a new adventure. The closest one is located just one block away from the shuttle bus stop and is easy to find.
An Interesting Fact: the lighthouse has a 2-ton rotating lens resting on mercury. It’s 400watt sodium lamp, which blinks every 4 seconds, can be seen from a distance up to 20 miles away. In 2017 the lighthouse was launched as a new international bird center – Skagen Grey Lighthouse, Center for Migratory Birds. It offers an interactive exhibition and a working bird observatory, which has made it a mecca for bird watchers around the world. Open to visitors 10 – 4pm (winter months) and until 6pm (summer months) everyday year-round, except for Christmas and New Year’s Eve.
A Fun Fact: Karen Blixen aka Isak Dinesen came to Skagen in 1936 to finish her best-selling book, “Out of Africa”. Another notable who came here includes Hans Christian Andersen who shared his impressions of Skagen in his 1860 publication “Folk Calendar for Denmark”.
And of course, what would a visit to any new location be if shopping wasn’t included? Browsing and buying here is a treat, and with the exclusive boutiques and charming shops along the Marina front and the shopping district, a terrific selection is to be had. No matter what you seek, from top quality Danish-designed fashion and shoes, ceramics, or glassware, Skagen watches, handmade amber jewelry, or local souvenirs and gifts, you’ll find it all. My personal favorite was the local grog shop (actually, the Skagen Proviant) packed to the rafters with wines, beer and liquor of every variety in one section; jams, jellies, condiments, and sweets in the other. I would have purchased one of the fabulous polar bear fur rugs (check out my pix of these), but I simply didn’t have the suitcase room to bring it home. At time of writing, the rate of exchange was 100dkk = $16.13, so a small fur rug at 299dkk was a bargain. Another good
shopping location I found was the Nordic Trading Post, with decent prices on sneakers, outerwear and especially those thick hand-knitted socks needed when hiking. Right in the center stands Skagen Bamsemuseum, Scandinavia’s only teddy bear museum.
This delightful holiday resort village is THE place for Danes to relax, rejuvenate and recuperate – maybe you should consider doing the same in the near future?
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