Pilsen to Cesky Krumlov

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We depart our hotel in Pilsen, weaving our way through rather drab residential suburbs that remind us of Dunstable. Drab, down at heel and absolutely nothing to commend it. Suddenly our journey is near doubled in length as the satnav announces that Route 19 is closed, meaning we have to do two sides of a triangle to get to our destination. The rain drizzles down and the skies are grey. Past mile upon mile of wheatfields, rolling hills, not a farm animal to be seen and not too much traffic either. We are tempted to stop to see the Archduke Frank Ferdinand's country estate, with his extensive gardens, but by now the rain is monsoon strength so that is suddenly unappealing. Next attempted visit is to Tabor, a medieval old town in the middle of a modern city. Absolutely no parking spaces. Oh dear, the day is taking on an interminable feel. More roadworks.......eventually we reach Cesky Budovice, where there is easy parking and a very pretty late medieval/Renaissance centre. Time for coffee and a stroll. Back on the road, more cornfields, and eventually we arrive in Cesky Krumlov. This is a beautiful Renaisssance town in the oxbow bend of the river, with the castle set up above the town. The entire place is cobbled and appears to be pedestrianised, but the hotel staff assure us we can park in front of the hotel. Bags unloaded, they then helpfully whisk the car away to park it.



The hotel itself is a converted Jesuit seminary which is attached to the church of St Vitus. It is quite quaint, with lots of arms attached to the walls, and a miscellany of tapestries and paintings scattered around. The staff are all dressed in peasant costume which sounds naff but just about works.



Venturing into town, it being Friday night the town is very busy. The streets are full of Far Eastern tour parties, students, tramps, and miscellaneous Europeans. We are very close to Austria so lots of Austrians are in town for the weekend. There are both expensive and naff souvenir shops but the whole thing is very tasteful. We decide to take cocktails and dine on the terrace overlooking the river. David decides to have the pike perch as it is a local fish and has never had it before. It is OK, but it is not something that will come into his calculations if it is on the menu again. Remember the lesson, don’t eat river fish (except for salmon, and that has spent a lot of time in the ocean anyway).

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