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Published: March 22nd 2014
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Clockwise from top left:
Astronomical Clock; John Lennon Wall; Charles Bridge; St. Vitus Cathedral; Old Town Square Although the dust had only just settled on the mad rush of Christmas and New Year, we were off to Prague to aid one of the most dull and depressing times on the calendar: post Christmas blues.
When we arrived in the town centre, we were invited to the sight of the architecturally beautiful cathedral with its roof lit up, standing out from the backdrop of the black early evening sky. After the admiration of our surroundings, we realised we were the only few people around the square. Other than the workers taking down the decorations from the once festive Christmas tree and the last of the little huts from the markets- we'd just arrived at a party that had just finished. Cue the tumbleweed. We figured we'd check into our hostel and be reassured if it was busy in daylight. Google Maps at the ready, we stumbled upon our accommodation through a grim cobbled street alleyway. A man standing alone ominously approached us “8pm check-in?”.
So we went through a courtyard and the two doors that could've been opened by a two year old, into our bedroom. It all felt a bit eerie, what with the only cutlery being sharp kitchen knives; a plastic prop leg on top of the wardrobe (yes, just a replica of a women's leg) and no curtains on the floor to ceiling windows. We were told “all upstairs rooms are being renovated and there's no curtains here but there's just courtyard outside”. Even though we couldn't see outside, my trust for the 8pm check-in scary “receptionist” had left as soon as we met.
We dropped our bags and decided to head out and keep positive. I guess after our great experience in Berlin Prague had a lot to live up to.
Although we enjoyed an alfresco meal, eating with blankets on our laps and the outside heaters burning above us and feeling optimistic after a few drinks at a cosy Irish bar, the dreaded walk home and night's sleep was hanging above us. The walk home lived up to our expectations as a drunk man followed us all the way, leaving us to take a diverted route and then appearing to look lost (which is never a great look for two young girls in a city past 10pm). Our anticipation of the hype and celebration of Christmas was juxtaposed in this dreary city.
In its defence, I'm sure two weeks prior it would’ve been a great place to visit; little festal market huts all aglow, big winter coats cramming the walkway and people warming their hands with a mulled wine; Christmas excitedly approaching...
Back to the sleepless night. Or taking it in turns to have a nap as the other kept guard. We'd decided to leave the hostel the next day. We weren't about to ruin our holiday based on our poor accommodation choice from looking at personal reviews on the internet. Instead of looking at the sights, we first had to check-out of Frankenstein Place (it wasn't called this before you Google it; my metaphor for the creepy and outlandish place we had our first sleep deprived night. We sure weren't Time Warping).
Having a 'family emergency' story lined up, we told Norman Bates that we had to rush back to England. Although he offered for his 'friend' to give us a lift to the airport, we politely declined as we didn't want to be featured in the real-life 'Taken' movie.
As we'd researched the night before, we found a hostel which was more like a comforting Premier Inn. Second floor for a start, electric key cards to the floor and the room, no haphazard plastic body parts and a non-murderous looking receptionist. It was a huge sigh of relief.
As well as it being daylight, we got to explore Old Town Square, the Astronomical Clock, Prague Castle- just enjoy being holidaymakers. We felt at ease knowing that we would be going back at night to a safe, well-lit, 'normal' place to stay. I say 'normal' as it felt like the binary opposition of the abnormality of Frankenstein Place.
What's more, the city was surrounded by teenagers on school trips, backpackers, locals, all giving us faith that Prague was full of great places to see.
Although we had to walk down an alleyway to get there- feeling unnerving memories flock back- we found the John Lennon Wall. Arbitrary in its place, but an outstanding array of graffiti. Bombarded with oxymorons- poignant love and peace quotes and symbols clashing with LSD written over it and pop-art stencils of the Beatle himself. It was definitely worth the detour to see this hidden treasure.
Finishing our holiday on a high, Prague is definitely deserving of a visit and I would go again. Just make sure you go at the right time, don't believe reviews and if your accommodation and flight is really cheap, it is definitely too go to be true.
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