Meditating on the Meditteranean (Rab)

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The Adriatic archipelago is one of the main reasons to come to Croatia. The islands along the coast are similar but at the same time retain their own special character, like siblings. Some, like Krk and Mljet, are covered mostly by a national park, while others, like Pag, are floating Medieval villages. With limited time and money, I could just visit one of them, so I chose the island of Rab.

Rab Island has one of the most beautiful cities in the world that is at the same time one of the smallest. The medieval Old City is crowded onto a narrow peninsula on one side of the island, and boasts four church towers that give it a distinctive skyline. As you stroll along the stone path perimeter along the shore, the towers shift in your perspective, and each new view of the city is as beautiful as the last. Furthermore, the upper Old Town sits at the top of the city walls on a mild cliff, so you can look down from its ramparts at the tiny sunbathers and crystal clear water below.

Although popular, Rab does not have the tourism-washed façade of mainland towns like Dubrovnik. People are down-to-earth and the place very much has a local feel. It is small enough that you start to recognize people after just a few days. One day I ventured out to a nudist (called “naturist”) beach on the other side of the island and found a spot on some large rocks. There was an English couple nearby and another young couple not far from them. I’ll be damned if I didn’t see them both walking down the street in town the next day (with their clothes on). It was funny when I saw that little smirk of recognition pass over their faces (although of course they didn’t say anything, and neither did I!)

The little city is a happening place at night, although after clubbing in Rijeka I was happy to just hang out and sample the local rakija (brandy) with locals. Me and my halting Croatian was a big hit with some “older” timers at one watering hole, and they made me try all three types of rakija. (My favorite is the medovica…it has a honey flavor)

People rent out their rooms all over the island, and you can see “SOBE” signs all over (which means “rooms”). I rented a room from a sweet little grandmotherly type named Maria who listened to her prayers over the radio each night, but told me with a wink and a nod that “she knew nothing” if I should happen to bring someone home. “I know nothing and I see nothing,” she told me in Croatian, standing next to a gigantic cross and rosary beads in her foyer.

After just an hour on the island I could feel myself relax after my hectic travels. Two days later, I was sorry to bid farewell to this little Medieval island paradise.

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Photos

The Rab Skyline
One view of the Rab Skyline through the window of one of the clock towers.

Seashell Vendor
This woman sat at on the Bobotine steps all day threading seashells into necklaces.

Hangin' with the Locals
Boris bought me rakija and expounded on world politics, about half of which I understood.

Another View
of Rab.

The Seaside
Old age and youth mingle at the seaside.

One of the Towers
I think this one was St. Anthony's.

Maria
"I know nothing and see nothing."

Franjo and Pope John Paul
Children run by a window that features a cutout picture of both Tudjman and Pope John.

Comments

[Jovan]

I know nothing and I see nothing. Exciting!

[Joelyn]

I hate you....but in a good way :)

[Stacey]

Hey girl... ok you've convinced me, I'm coming. So what was it that Maria didn't see?