From the set of 'Game of Thrones'

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Croatia has a fascinating history, but most amazingly, its founders had the foresight to build cities that would one day become the set of ‘Game of Thrones’. As we cruised south through Split, Korčula, and eventually Dubrovnik, we could see that every town has jumped on the Game of Thrones bandwagon with Game of Thrones souvenirs and tours for those enthusiasts. For the septuagenarians I was cruising with, they had less interest in these activities.

Each of these three stops was once well fortified, but not necessarily at the same time. Split was the Roman emperor Diocletian’s retirement home and it had a lot more living space than a typical Arcare residence. Before Diocletian turned the first sod, there was nothing much along this section of coast and the town of Split evolved around the palace. Today the palace contains a few interesting sites, including the world's smallest cathedral. However, the city that surrounds it is uninspiring. I was glad to leave early the next morning and see the island of Vis.

Vis has a population of 3000 and only two towns of note, the main port called Vis and on the other side of the island, Komiža. Both were pretty villages and I’d have loved to stay a few days, but that’s not how cruising works. After a very slow stroll and being shown an important WWII airfield and the worst example of a cricket ground in the world we were back on the boat and heading for Korčula, where we spent the night.

The boat stopped overnight in both Korčula and Dubrovnik. We had more guided tours (at a slow pace that some of the spritely recent retirees chose to skip) and learned about their similar histories. Dubrovnik’s walls are best preserved, but in Korčula you can actually move and prices are more reasonable. If you are choosing one to visit there are pros and cons to each. Yes, Dubrovnik is over touristed. Every day thousands spew out of cruise ships (just like we did!) and fill the streets within the enormous walls. Those walls are breathtaking and from many different vantage points, you’ll find yourself clicking away at every turn.

Back on the ship for our last stand, the group had come to know each other quite well and inhibitions stripped away with every extra round of free drinks. They were very generous on the last night. At mealtime, two gargantuan Croatians in matching Marcel Marceau outfits set up in the dining room. One carrying a guitar and the other a piano accordion. They played a variety of tunes but in keeping with their audience, played an array of Aussie classics from ‘Waltzing Matilda’ to ‘A land down under' to ‘Alice Alice Who the F#*k is Alice’. They were quite good, and my initial fear of the piano accordion was unfounded.

The next day we woke with sore heads and followed the disembarkation instructions. I was glad to be independent from the moment we got out of the minivan. Mum probably wasn’t glad to walk up the many stairs that are unavoidable in Dubrovnik. The place is UNESCO listed and to maintain its authenticity, vehicles are not permitted inside the walls. So, you walk everywhere inside. You should see how they collect rubbish too. One morning I was men with trolleys that were filled with rubbish bags. The rubbish was wrapped to the trolley using glad wrap to maximise each load. As well as that our apartment owner explained how hard it is to replace furniture and white goods in a place like this. It all has to be carried in!

To escape the hordes of tourism (a problem that we contribute to ourselves) we took a cable car to the top of the hill and took in a birds eye view of the old and new towns and surrounding islands. Another day we spent at Locrum Island, which is just ten minutes by boat from Dubrovnik. However, you can find peace and quiet amongst the gardens, ruined forts and walking trails. We also had a laugh at the Europeans pretending they were comfortable lying on the rocky surfaces they call beaches. I’ve decided that the lack of sand here is one of the reasons why the water so clear. So, you take the good with the bad don’t you!

There are some great places to eat in Dubrovnik. We liked sitting in the narrow streets to enjoy a simple pizza or pasta. Yet there are some very good restaurants in this town too. On our last night we at a Bosnian restaurant, in Croatia, called Taj Mahal. Go figure. There was no Indian food on the menu, but the highly recommended Bosnian fare lived up to expectations. There is a middle eastern influence in the food from across the border, just kilometres from Dubrovnik.



By now we are in London and will be home in a few days. Lots of people back in Oz that we both want to see again!

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Photos

Split Cathedral
The smallest in the world. Inside Diocletian's palace

Komiza
On the far side of Vis

Water in Komiza
Wish I stayed a few days to explore this island properly

Lion Sculpture
Every church seems to have them, but none of the sculptors could have actually seen a lion!

Steps to our door in Dubrovnik
They didn't agree with Mum's knees!

One of Dubrovnik's gates
It has a moat around it. Amazing fortress

Cable car to the top
This is the walled city and Lokrum island

Small port
There is also a big port a few km away for the ships. We took a small boat to Lokrum island

Arts festival
There is a lot going on in July and August

Main street at night
Almost always busy in Dubrovnik. Only time we didn't see crowds was when we left at 8 am.

Morning outside the walls.
There are a few places like this that you can walk through the wall to visit.

Rocky Beaches
They must love visiting Australia for our beaches. So much more comfortable! But I think the sand reduces visibility. Adriatic water is so clear.