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Published: September 26th 2020
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Croatia's North East is comprised of 3 administrative subdivisions (zupanije or counties, in Thailand provinces), Zagorje, Varazdin and Medimurje. In the very top bordering to the east to Hungary, to the north-west to Slovenia with about 30 kilometers of Slovenian territory separating it from Austria, lies Medimurje, Nenad county of origin, with its capital city Cakovec. Despite being the smallest Croatian county by size, it is the most densely populated one (excluding Zagreb itself). There are slopes of the Alpine foothills in the north-western part of the county, the Upper Međimurje, making it suitable for vineyards. The south-eastern part of the county, the Lower Međimurje, touches the flat Pannonian Plain, which stretch into Hungary. The flat parts of the region are also largely used for agriculture, which mostly includes fields of cereals, maize, pumpkin and potato, as well as orchards, which are mostly planted with apple, cherry, apricot and of course the famous plum trees. Plums in Croatian sljiva, is the fruit being distilled for the famous drink slivovica, a high percentage schnapps. Medimurje is triangle shaped with two large rivers, the Mura and the Drava on its borders at the Eastern end meeting and continuing as Drava. This rivers are
making the soil very fertile and moist, having plenty of ground water. There are two major hydroelectric power plants along Drava River, with large artificial lakes, a paradise for fish, birds and water sports.
Historically Medimurje was always under the thumb of the Hungarian crown, which was in alliance with the Habsburg dynasty until 1867, when the two houses joined forces forming the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The most important local rulers were the Dukes Zrinski, who left a beautiful castle in Cakovec. Lacking funds, the castle could not be renovated for decades. The Zrinski dynasty ruled from the early 15th century to the early 18th century. At the beginning much hailed by the Hungarian king for its successes on the battlefield against the Ottomans, the family later was prosecuted by the Hungarian crown as they joined Ban Jelacic (see blog on Zagreb) in the revolt to free Croatia from Hungarian rule. 1919 Medimurje became part of the newly created Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes and later socialist Yugoslavia.
Ethnically Medimurje went through a strong transformation. Before WWII the population consisted of about 30% Hungarians, 30% Slavs (Croats and Slovenes) and 30% Jews, with some Gypsies and Germanics as
Zagorje
forest and farms minorities. After the war the Jewish population nearly disappeared and many Hungarians fled before the communist Partisans. Today Croats are the dominant group, with gypsies growing strongly in numbers. This is a social time bomb, as the majority of the Roma are not willing to adopt and integrate into the Western lifestyle, creating more and more problems for the society.
Economically Medimurje is known for its strong small and medium business environment, especially in agriculture and textiles. Some quarry activities extract gravel for construction and minor coal deposits are exploited. The region is considered one of the nation's richest and most prosperous. People in Medimurje love recreation and one can join over 200 clubs for various sporting and other activities. Hunting also a long tradition and attracts numerous visitors in low game and birds.
Nenad left Cakovec in 1967 with his parents, who migrated to Switzerland for better work opportunities. A fate many from Medimurje folks shared primarily during the 1970's. We caught up with the little bit family Nenad still has in Cakovec and we met of course Gogo and Emina, who you have seen already in the Dubrovnik blog. Driving through Medimurje left us with mixed
feelings. Some houses beautifully build and landscapes maintained matching this rural country atmosphere, some totally run down or abandoned. Cakovec with its cute cobble stoned streets in the old city center is history. Replaced by ugly looking tiles, totally unsuitable for the style of architecture. Nenad was told that these cobble stones, which are today quite pricy as building material, were stolen by corrupt local officials in the chaotic years of the disintegration of Yugoslavia. Nenad's blood pressure was rising. Gone also his grandfathers kiosk in the city center next to the church, a meeting point for many citizens to buy newspapers, tobacco and exchange local gossip. The highlight of our stay was the visit of the best vinery of Medimurje "Belovic" in the Western hilly part. A personal friend of Gogo, Damir Belovic is the proud owner and 7th !!! generation heir of this wine making family. This area does have as so many other a tremendous history in wine making. Roman records show that when the Roman legions conquered this part of Europe about 2000 year ago they already found a fully established wine growing community. An other interesting encounter was with Stefan, a German from Augsburg, who
20 years ago followed his love, married a local lady and build a textile manufacturing company specializing in ladies underwear and swimwear. Nui's heart started to beat stronger when we visited his factory and show room.
After a brief stay of a couple of days we left for a brief visit in Varazdin, a bigger city made famous among other things by the Lehar's Opereta Graefin Mariza. Nenad left with disappointment what he saw in Cakovec happy that at the time in 1967 his parents made the move going away. But he was filled with joy that he could meet some very interesting people and that some of the warm hearted hospitality still exists. When will he see Cakovec again ???
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