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Not only are the hills alive with the sound of music but the streets, restaurants, churches and squares are teeming with the melodious sounds of choirs singing and orchestras playing! We arrived to Salzburg via train and literally dumped off our bags, bought our "Salzburg Card" and headed off to see the sights in this beautiful town that boasts being the birthplace of Mozart as well as the the setting for some of the scenes from "The Sound of Music". Feel like we should be donning lederhosen, dirndl, and an apron and bursting out in, "My Favourite Things" or "Edelweiss". What a wonderful experience to be in the town where the history of this Oscar winning movie has its roots!
Our first stop was to the Mirabell Gardens. This whimsical garden begins simply, lots of trees and paths. It soon opens up to a raised area which is home to a number of stone gnomes, all standing around an eliptical path. The facial expressions and clothing on these chubby creatures were comical and captivating! We found the one that was wearing glasses and knew we were to rub his nose. The Mirabell Gardens and Palace were in the movie as
they were singing "Do - Re - Me". The gorgeous flower beds with a fountain flowing up from the centre were framed by several paths. We also passed through the gates to the garden where "Maria" first entered when she arrived at the Von Trapp family home. The movie was dubbed in Austrian and German but to this day many of the locals have never even seen it!
From there we headed across the famous Makartsteg Bridge spanning the Danube. Each side was covered in a sea of locks that people had put on while visiting. We then came to Mozartplatz and the birthplace of the young Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. It interesting to walk the floors of the home where he was born and to find out that his mother gave birth to 7 children and only two of of them survived - Mozart and his sister. This incredible artist was fully dedicated to his craft, composing music from 6 in the morning, giving music lessons and then composing again well into the evening. We saw his first violin and the small family piano.
Next we decided that a climb was in order so we headed up towards
the Hohensalzburg Fortress which stands over the city and is the first thing you see as you approach the old town. First we climbed up dozens of stone steps and then had to continue on up a steep paved path. In spite of all the climbing we have done over the last 2 1/2 months we were still quite winded by the time we reached the fortress gate. Our card got us in for free and we soon entered into this 900 year old huge fortress which was the home to several Archbishops and also provided refuge for them during the Hungarian/Peasant War. We wandered through the huge rooms as well as the museum. Upon going outside we received the most incredible view over Salzburg. While touring inside, a huge rainstorm hit but when we left the fortress walls the sun had broken through and was drying everything up. We then wandered back into town and came across St. Peter's Cemetery. This unique burial place for those of Salzburg was the incentive for the cemetery scene in The Sound of Music when they were hiding from the Nazis behind the tombstones in gated areas. Several of the tombstones dated back
Unterberg Mountain
View from Hohensalzburgto the 1700's. We then went up to the Catacombs which are built into the rock face. There was to be a quintet playing at 7:30. With 1/2 an hour to wait we wandered into a square where we were amidst hundreds of people. Many wore matching outfits while others were clad in German/Austrian garb! Translating the brochure we were handed, it turns out that this was Koncert Nacht and over 59 choirs would be performing well into the evening at various venues. As we stood in this large group they suddenly broke into song. We thought it was one choir but soon everyone in the square was singing. It gave me goosebumps listening to this beautiful song that was evidently something of importance and significance to Austria. After leaving we came to another spot where a choir was warming up. Not long after we heard yet another group! Everywhere we turned there were notes floating through the air. It was a special evening.
The next morning dawned grey and drizzly. We knew we had to get the most out of our Salzburg Card so we decided, that in spite of the weather, we would take the bus to
Untersberg, a magnificent 1856m mountain. We had to take a cable car to the top. Yep, one of those height things that cause me stress. We boarded the car with about 10 other people. This ride up was quite a horror show for me on many levels. As we started our ascent I started to feel a wee bit nauseous. Not long after the sheer height of the car compounded by the fact that the face of the mountain in some spots looked quite close, did not help my nerves. Just as I started to feel at bit at ease the operator told some other passengers to stop moving from side to side. "We will start to swing." he said. I was a wreck thinking that at any given moment the car would be hanging from the cable and we would be hanging on for dear life. As my loving husband held me close we then entered a thick layer of clouds. I didn't think it could get any worse than this. We couldn't see a thing and I felt like I was in a scene from the horror movie, "The Fog". Suddenly the stop appeared before us and we
were told that the cars go back down every half hour until 5pm. I had to get off? I thought this was just a scary ride up and down. Nope. There was a wonderful lookout and restaurant at the top. We headed out to the walking path where we were pelted with rain and high winds. I soon scurried into the cafe and sat down while my husband braved the elements. About ten minutes later he appeared, soaking wet and frozen. We warmed up with coffee and tea, while watching the thick clouds swirl around outside. After about 30 minutes we could see some clearing. We bundled up and headed down the path. If it had been a beautiful summer day this would have been an amazing hiking area. You could walk for up to 6h if you wanted throughout the mountain - just like the characters from the movie when they were on the hills of Austria! We stood in the snow, not missing winter at all! We then went back inside where we struck up a conversation with a one-legged Austrian gentleman. His enthusiasm for the mountain was infectious as he told us about the "energy" you get
Trick Fountains
Hellbrunn Palace by walking to the top. He pointed out various points in the landscape below and told us which roads to travel when in Germany. He had a twinkle in his eye and a wonderful smile! His daughter/wife/girlfriend/friend came in shortly thereafter and asked us if we had been up to the cross. We look puzzled and she told us this was the highest point from which you had a 360 degree view. Out we went again, battling the wind and following the stone path up to the cross where an incredible vista unfolded before us. We could not see one side as the clouds had descended once again. As we made our way down the rocky path we were quite amazed that the one-legged gentleman was making his way up the rather tenuous path. What dedication and commitment he showed.
While waiting for the cable car down we met a Korean family from Toronto and chatted with them about mutual travel experiences. I must say the trip down was much better than going up! We boarded the bus at the base and headed to Hellbrunn Palace.
This palace was used as a day residence in the summer by
Markus Sittikus, Prince- Archbishop of Salzburg, who liked to play jokes on guests and had a keen sense of humour. We first went on a group tour of the "Trick Fountains". Forging our way through the rain we were treated to a whimsical garden full of hidden fountains. The stone table where the Archbishop entertained guests was complete with fountains that would spout up through their seats and from the centre of the massive table. To top it off there was no water on the Archbishop's seat and the guests were not allowed to get before the Prince, thus making them endure the spray! We saw grottos with incredible water-powered mechanisms. All the water comes directly from the springs that come down from Unterberg. We were intrigued with the multitude of figurines that moved via the water. As we left the park we then entered the Palace where we walked through the magnificent rooms. As we left we walked through the expanse of gardens to the gazebo from the Sound of Music. This was the actual one used in the movie and was given to the city of Salzburg after completion of the film.
We headed back to Salzburg
where we wandered the streets and came to Residenzplatz where a huge outdoor beer garden/music festival was being held. On the large stage was the brass and winds orchestra who serenaded the crowd with incredible music. People were sitting at long tables enjoying beer, bratwurst, and whole fish on a wooden skewer cooked over an open fire! We enjoyed our sausage, taking in the wonderful atmosphere. Moving on we visited the gorgeous Salzburg Cathedral where, once again, we were treated to the sounds of a melodious choir singing at the altar. We made our way back through the streets to our hotel, later enjoying a nice dinner and talking with a mother and her two sons from Tennesee. They were delightful and we exchanged several travel tales.
Friday morning we are off by train to Freilassing, Germany where we pick up our rental car!!! No backpack lugging for a while!!! 😊
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